Hi Walt,
Good to see you back.
put oil in it, and it should be ready to attempt the first start.
bit nervous about starting it for the first time in 50 years,
Follow the advice in
Waking The Sleeping Beast? Only things to bear in mind are:-
.
WTSB was written originally for triples, which have a larger crankcase than twins, so only put about a pint of oil in your bike's crankcase;
. on your bike, you can't get oil into the crankcase through the primary, they're (should be) sealed from each other; put it in via a rocker-box and pushrod tube?
engine had NGK B77EC spark plugs
tried to find more info
Is the "77" a mistype, should it be just a single "7"? That'd make sense for an NGK heat range.
Also, could the last letter be a "G"? Reason I ask is "C" isn't a standard NGK suffix afaict, but "G" means a thin nickel central electrode.
Installed NGK BP7ES plugs.
You know the "P" means 'projected tip' - the tip projects further into the combustion chamber than a standard plug? You checked there's sufficient clearance from the piston?
Did you fit a new needle jet and needle? In addition to corrosion, the steel needle wears the brass jet more rapidly.
throttle tube was dragging on the handlebar very slightly. Had to use some emery cloth on the handlebars to free it up.
Fwiw, I use cheap spray-on furniture polish as a throttle tube lube, ime causes less drag than oil.
kill switch is a
Lucas 35601A normally open switch. I wired it to the B/Y and B/W
Boyer wires, and hope that will function as it should.
normally closed
Lucas switch to replace it with. Should be a 31071 as far as I can tell,
Mmmm ... According to the parts book:-
. 35601 is the DC "Kill button"; according to the wiring diagram in the workshop manual, when closed, it
grounds the original BW and BY wires when they're connected to points - i.e. the points opening then won't cause a DC coil to generate an HT spark.
. 31071 is the ET (AC) "Kill button"; if I'm reading the wiring diagram in the workshop manual correctly, it's also NO?
information on those switches is confusing and conflicting.
35835 is very definitely a NC kill button, I have one on my T150.
clutch nuts
read somewhere that it is recommended to apply blue loctite to those
Bizarre advice. They're a pita to undo anyway, because Triumph designed 'em not to undo; what would Loctite do?
Imho, increasing fixation with applying "stuff" to any and every thread; Triumph made singles and 360-degree twins for something like eighty years, anyone'd think they didn't have a clue about fasteners unscrewing when they shouldn't ...
Hth.
Regards,