a 71 Bonneville to un-customize... - Page 2 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
Member's Restoration & Rebuild Projects Details of member's own projects.

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post #11 of 234 (permalink) Old 11-27-2010, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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and as to the details...

The first thing doesn't have a picture - handlebars. Are the stock ones 1" diameter? These ape hangers measure 7/8" OD; the p-clamps are tightened all the way and the bars rock frontwards and back pretty easily, and the switches and handles spin... So I need a 1" bar? Yes?

Underneath all of gooey wrapping - five wires to the back fender, two of which butt jointed into the tail light and three of them dead-end.

I'm not going to say anything nice about the black-tape electrician that was here last.

A three-position switch; original is four, yes? Also, list of dead-end female spade fittings: double red, two double whites, double brown/blue & single green/red. Looks like I've got some schematic-studying to do...

Not unrelatedly - I'm having a weird time with the battery. I put my Battery Tender on the battery when it's installed, and it will be in 'charge' status (red light) for days at a time; I take it out and charge it on the bench, and it's in 'charged/maintenance' status (green light) within an hour. Any idea what that's about?

On the right-hand side air boot.

Air leak? Maybe/definitely?

Got these off and, for sure, the slides are definitely stuck. So the carbs are off and ready for cleaning. First thing (I'm curious how this many things broke on this bike), one of the mounting studs is gone.


Question about carb setup - I've heard (here and elsewhere) not to bother with the choke, and even just to remove the whole setup. Any thoughts on that? Do most people just run with the choke slides removed altogether? I remember hearing something about the tendency of the choke slides to fall down into the chamber at wider-open throttle?

And here's the last thing - ugly weld...?

What is this supposed to look like? An open channel with a bolt that can slide back and forth and is tightened upward through the channel in the tank? Any chance someone just got lazy and welded [edit: brazed] a normal bolt here - and that I can carefully grind the slag off and get it back to original without much ado?

Anyway, this is where we are now. Next step is getting at the brakes....

Last edited by therabbithole; 11-28-2010 at 06:50 AM.
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post #12 of 234 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 12:12 AM
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7/8" is standard. There should be 4 shims between the bar and P clamps.
97-1425

The tank bolt land has a tendency to bust loose. Looks like a bolt has been 'Poorly' braised in.

Here in the frozen wasteland of O-H-I-O the choke is optional. Don't worry over it too much
unless you plan on riding through the winter.
Those carb bolts really should be replaced with the correct self locking one's.

Replace battery.

Looks like the left foot on the center stand is worn down. Beads can be welded on there
and then ground to match the other.

"Thanks to denial, I'm immortal" -Phillip J. Fry

Last edited by shrugger; 11-28-2010 at 12:35 AM.
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post #13 of 234 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks

That's really helpful stuff, Shrugger. Thanks a lot.

As to the handlebars, it looks like all four shims are installed inside the P-clamps. I'll take it apart (hopefully later today, once the sun gets us above freezing) and check it out and re-measure things. It looks like they wrapped some packing tape around the bar ends to (try to) get the switches to resist spinning. I'll see what I find.

I suppose it make sense to keep the chokes even if I don't use them, particularly if people think there's no real risk to keeping things assembled as original. I imagine that decision may have something to do with the health of my budget as things progress.

As for the battery - it's on my shopping list. Is the problem that weaker cells will hold a charge on a wooden surface but will leak current when they're inside of a metal cage? Just curious.

Speaking of electrics, I made some progress on mapping out the wiring schematic. (I have an excel spreadsheet that I've used before and it's a really helpful way to look up wires by location or color or component or whatever). Some of it looks pretty straightforward; some of it's gonna be a hassle. The first practical matter, since the previous owner removed the fuse holder, is going to be finding out what rating fuses people run in these.

It sounds to me like the advice on the tank stay is to leave well enough alone. Yes? I found some other threads on the topic here and will think about other options as I do my best not to worry about the aesthetics of a hidden part. The more I get into this, though, it does seem more and more likely that I'll be investing in a small mig welder or at least some oxy-acetylene stuff...

Which leads me to the last point. Any advice on good welders (hopefully in Ohio) that will do small jobs? I called a bunch of places and was ignored or talked to like I was a child. I just wanted someone to look at the centerstand and either straighten it (it's tweaked along the axis of the center pipe, by about 3/4") or explain why they couldn't. You just get a lot of unresponsive grunting and condescending eyebrows from people who look way too much like the kid on American Chopper.... Anyway, I got one place to take it and promise me an estimate by phone, hopefully tomorrow. Their minimum is $35 (for 5 minutes work?).

Anyway, even if that's a good price - any advice for finding people who are actually friendly and helpful?

Last edited by therabbithole; 11-28-2010 at 10:04 AM.
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post #14 of 234 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therabbithole View Post
I called a bunch of places and was ignored or talked to like I was a child. I just wanted someone to look at the centerstand and either straighten it (it's tweaked along the axis of the center pipe, by about 3/4") or explain why they couldn't. You just get a lot of unresponsive grunting and condescending eyebrows from people who look way too much like the kid on American Chopper.... Anyway, I got one place to take it and promise me an estimate by phone, hopefully tomorrow. Their minimum is $35 (for 5 minutes work?).

Anyway, even if that's a good price - any advice for finding people who are actually friendly and helpful?
Noticed that myself! Or they only do industrial piece work!

I haven't needed any welding done so I haven't checked this place
out yet. Not sure of the exact address. But you could try Crown Welding.
It's over on 5th Ave by CMH just east of James rd. The sign out front
claims they'll weld anything. But that, of course, remains to be seen.

The charge in a battery wants to go to ground no matter what.
Even through wood or rubber. Though VERY VERY slowly. A metal
cage makes things much easier for the charge to earth.

"Thanks to denial, I'm immortal" -Phillip J. Fry
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post #15 of 234 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 04:45 PM
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Attention therabbithole!

Check PM for info

Currently I`m working on a `71 TR6R and a `73 TR7RV so I know what your dealing with.

Good luck and don`t spare the patience,you`ll be glad at the end.
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post #16 of 234 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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some homework done

Thanks lots MoBe for those links.

I'm confused by why the wiring schematic I've got (in the factory service manual) doesn't indicate that there are any red wires other than the one from the positive battery terminal to ground - except there are red wires in my wiring harness (?). Under the seat, at the rear fender and presumably elsewhere. Is this something Triumph did and didn't see fit to mention in their schematics? Or is it possible that someone installed a different model's harness?

So the biggest thing for today was that I got most of the rest of my errant wires figured out.

Second - it looks like I'll need an entire right intake manifold (E9551), since those studs don't seem to have separate part numbers.

Third - all of the handlebar parts are here, and an old 7/8" track bar fits fine and is plenty tight. Not sure what was wrong with the ape hangers. But I want stock bars anyway, so at least I've got something on there that will let me push it in and out of the garage (although there's now about 12 extra inches of cable). This was a pretty big hiccup, though, since the p-clamp stem nuts were pretty much completely rounded. Weird - almost all of the other fasteners have been pretty clean. But after the not-too-big-a-pain process of removing the headlight brackets and gauge cables and bulb wires, I was able to get at them with vise-grips. One nice thing about jerks who can't be bothered to find viable fasteners is that they're probably the same kind of people who can't figure out how to get things too tight.

Fourth - I looked at the carb parts. The slides are pretty badly grooved; everyday, I ask myself: "5,500 miles? 105,500 miles?" The good news is I would have bought it either way...

Fifth - There's residue from a paper gasket between one of the carbs (only the left) and the manifold, but the parts manual only lists an o-ring (E9711). What's the deal there?

Sixth - Thanks a lot for the tip on the welder, Shrugger. I'll check it out for a muffler I've got to get fixed and will let you know. Hearing from anyone else with welding advice and/or recommendations would be - to reuse a word - awesome. Alternatively, I'll be happy to barter with anyone who's got a welder and a need for some tutoring in political philosophy, international political economy or music sociology....
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post #17 of 234 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 08:54 PM
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[QUOTE=therabbithole;1745262]

Second - it looks like I'll need an entire right intake manifold (E9551), since those studs don't seem to have separate part numbers.

Unless I`m missing something it looks like a nut and bolt should solve this matter?What am I missing?

As for the question of the p-clamp,the simple answer is that the design is not capable of the clamping force required to deal with leverage of those apehangers.Any mechanical engineer will tell you the same thing.

Last edited by MoBe; 11-28-2010 at 09:00 PM.
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post #18 of 234 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 09:08 PM
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Any bolt will do for the carb flanges. What you need however, is a
locking nut (or Nylock) so as not to torq it down in order to keep it
from loosening. Too tight will warp the carb body right quick. Causing
unpleasant air leak problems. This is especially true with O-ring gaskets.
You might check with AMAL. They may have the paper gaskets as well.

"Thanks to denial, I'm immortal" -Phillip J. Fry
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post #19 of 234 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 09:19 PM
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Almost every shade tree tip and trick you'll ever need for an OIF Bonnie.
From our very own Plewsy

http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...=lunmad&page=2

"Thanks to denial, I'm immortal" -Phillip J. Fry
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post #20 of 234 (permalink) Old 11-29-2010, 02:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therabbithole View Post
Speaking of electrics, I made some progress on mapping out the wiring schematic. (I have an excel spreadsheet that I've used before and it's a really helpful way to look up wires by location or color or component or whatever). Some of it looks pretty straightforward; some of it's gonna be a hassle. The first practical matter, since the previous owner removed the fuse holder, is going to be finding out what rating fuses people run in these.
I have chased Mr lucas round and round my bike and have slowly got on top of him. Good luck!

Initially my bike had a single in line fuse on the +ve earth lead from the battery. In this was a single 35 amp fuse. And that was it, one bike, one fuse, so every time some crap piece of Lucas switch, whatever or some worn wiring decided it was going to short, the whole bike stopped... I ended up putting a 6 circuit fuse box with micro fuses into it, it helped enormously to track down what it was "this time" when the bike stopped by having everything fused separately.

It was like, "oh dear, what's happened to the blinkers?", instead of "****ing heap of ****ing **** has stopped dead again... what the **** is it this time?"
My electrics were a real basket case though.
My advice, consider the option of putting a fuse box in and separating all the circuits, could save some frustration.
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