a 71 Bonneville to un-customize... - Page 11 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
Member's Restoration & Rebuild Projects Details of member's own projects.

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post #101 of 234 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 10:03 AM
SuperSport
Main Motorcycle: `71 TR6R
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The dechroming looks good,chin up, things will look better with warmer weather.

Check the Tach by attaching an electric handrill to the cable, run it counterclockwise I believe and you will see if and how it works.

Good luck
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post #102 of 234 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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so the tach wobbles a bit but is more or less responsive, with a carefully applied hand drill and a square bit, through the full range. it's pretty shaky under 2,000 but, above that, it seems to modulate around more or less consistent points all the way through 10,000. and the cable comes apart pretty easily, so...

that's good enough? yes? if it works imperfectly but still better on the drill than on the bike then the problem must be at least partly elsewhere?

guess it's one more thing to wait to decipher until enough other things are back together to troubleshoot. in the meantime maybe i'll figure out how to grind off the end of a piece of stock to get the drive mechanism out of the case. that will work, yes?

in the meantime i picked up a smiths oil gauge on ebay so i can maybe improve on the pilot light setup.
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post #103 of 234 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 06:19 PM
Minitwins
Main Motorcycle: 1972 T-120 Bonneville
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Nice project. Don't let it give you too much grief, these bikes are pretty simple. Must say, not a huge fan of the stock airboxes on the OIFs. Mine drove me crazy taking them on and off. I find when I ride a lot, the whole bike tends to rattle itself apart every so often and I will go through and re-tighten and re-adjust where necessary (Ride Wrench, Repeat)... I finally made a change when I lost the little nut that connects them in the center. I have some cheap air cleaners on there now. Granted it looks awful now with the battery showing. I dig the ones Lunmad made with some velocity stacks. Stock isn't always trick. There are exceptions. Just sayin'.
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post #104 of 234 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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what happened to February?

thanks, mrmlong. i'm expecting to reassess things like this once i'm comfortable with the idea that the bike will last at least this summer without any more major work. in the meantime i'm using nylocks wherever feasible...

and has it really been almost a month since i've put anything up here? well, there's more homemade furniture in my house, i guess, and a few fewer things on my broader to-do list....

which isn't to say i've been idle. i found money for almost all of the remaining necessary parts. new tires/tubes and new mufflers have all arrived. the front tire's mounted and the rear should be done in the next day or two. exhaust's will go on after i've removed the primary cover to make sure i can't continue to ignore the hole someone poked in it (i'm assuming the primary chain came apart? i still don't know why they all break right there - the ones on ebay all seem to have the same problem).

i finally found a fuse block, too - i was surprised with how hard it was to find one for plug fuses that didn't rely on a single hot bus (the only option at any of the 5 auto parts stores that are within a mile of my house). but i found one on ebay that's set up for 8 wholly distinct circuits and it's arriving today.

most of my labor, though, has gone into dealing with the fork legs. i didn't quite keep track, but i'm guessing i spent at least an hour on each with a grinder (regular coarse grit surfacing wheel in a die grinder), followed by (so far) another 45 minutes each with a 50-grit flap wheel. next step is emery paste on a buffing wheel that i'm going to try to get rigged up on my bench grinder (with a non-removable shroud that i expect to hinder access, but hopefully not completely). it's a lot of work but even if i quit now i think they look a lot better than they did with the pimply/wrinkly chrome.

oh, and there's paint on the side covers and air boxes. never had so much trouble with aerosol and fisheyes (rust oleum 'automotive' over rust-oleum self-etching). i did the normal prepping where i wiped down with mineral spirits and have never had trouble before. anyway, i gave up on the details, reasoning that that the few dimples and imperfections that were left after i cut it with rubbing compound were just things i could count as 'patina'. especially since i'm not re-doing the frame. so those bits are still waiting (ahem, 'hardening') and will be polished soon.

pictures on all this soon. still on target to be on the road by april....

Last edited by therabbithole; 03-02-2011 at 12:27 PM.
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post #105 of 234 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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good news

A whole lot of time (maybe worth the price quote on the actual chrome removing but, well, without any actual cash....)
As mentioned, lots of hours grinding. I tried other things. Hand-sanding up to 80-grit, but it still had the strips of copper plating (it's hard to keep it round with a flat grinding disc). I also tried to go to black rouge on a buffing wheel right away, since there's so much range in the way people talk about buffing and i thought maybe it was aggressive enough: some people seem to talk like you can burn all the way through aluminum if you're not careful with the black. Not really - it's not nearly aggressive enough to get out the grinding scratches or even the remnant copper.
I ended up having the best luck with medium-grit grinding disc, followed by 50-grit flap wheel, a 120-grit flap wheel, and then 20 or 30 minutes with the black rouge on the buffing wheel. Not perfect, but WAY better than where I started.

Anyway, before:


and after:


not perfect, again, but I'm happy with it.

Last edited by therabbithole; 03-06-2011 at 08:18 PM.
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post #106 of 234 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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same here. before:


and, in a lesser picture:


but more significantly, it turns out i've got problems with the front wheel. it never occurred to me that i should check the rim - it turns out that, as i was changing the tire, i noticed that the rim is bent. looks like a previous owner dropped it off of a bench - about 4 inches of the circumference of the rim is splayed by about an inch. i figured i'd put on the tire anyway, and hope it didn't vibrate too badly....
probably not gonna be so lucky. after i got the bearings re-installed i was able to verify that it's about an inch out of true. damn!
of all the things this 'big' city doesn't have that will service the public (hydraulic shop, welder, chromer) i'm guessing place-that-can-build-wheels is one of them.
anyone have any advice on whether a bent rim can be straightened (i'm assuming 'no') and, either way, if (this would be for the midwesterners on the list) there are any recommendations for shops that can true a wheel?
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post #107 of 234 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 08:27 PM
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I had the same air box issue...got tired of the nutsand bolts being a pain...I wound up drilling them out and tapping to 1/4-28. A bit of loctite blue and a couple socket heads and it is secure and easy to take on and off. Drill both sides to .213...tap drill size.... to assure line up then open up one side to .257 or so. works like a charm.
Also, the bolts for the outer box kept spinning and falling off, pushing inside...solution...mark location of inner box face carefully, then drill for a 1/8 roll pin, leaving about.03 slop...put a rubber washer under it, and another aggravating problem solved.

[B]
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post #108 of 234 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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someday, maybe, i'll figure out how to be that resourceful David! nylocs aren't enough then? hmm.

anyway, here are the parts in question.
not a good picture, dusty, and not good paint to be photographed, but the more i think about it the more 'good' black paint would look weird against the not-newly-painted frame.

i'll need to figure out how to keep things attached.
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post #109 of 234 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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lastly:

grab rails are expensive - weirdly, seemingly without reason, expensive - on ebay. i got the sissy bar out of this one, and i'm inclined to cut off the up-pipes so i can grind them off and just have a single loop to mount the fender, but i feel like maybe cutting/grinding this would be dumb. any ideas on how to make it serviceable? maybe find a chrome loop that will just bolt into this one?
not much of a market for sissy bars on ebay, it seems... anyone want to trade?
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post #110 of 234 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 08:48 PM
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custom back to stock...71 T120R

Looks like you are doing pretty well... I have the good fortune of being a retired machinist with a pretty well equipped shop and I have had a lot of frustration...my frame was hacked off behind the shocks by a PO, and the rear frame I put on was from a 77....hinges wrong side, different spacing, lots of issues...bottom line is don't give up. I have a lot of mechanical experience but the insights of the guys here are indispensable. There are just too many quirks and kinks...it has taken me about 18 months to get where i feel pretty good about my 71.

some ugly before and now somewhat better after
pics..

http://photobucket.com/home/david_in_ky/index

just keep pecking away!

[B]
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