SOS Cooling System/Temp Light - Page 3 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
Hinckley Classic Triples 885cc Classic Styled T3's: Legend, Thunderbird, Thunderbird Sport & Adventurer.

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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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What colors are the wires on the fan switch? Take your volt meter. Set it to DC volts, a range greater than 12 volts. Put the black probe on the negative side of the battery, or any good ground. Probe the two wires off the switch. One should be 12 volts. If neither is, you have to trace back to the fuse box. Those fuses can look good but still be bad. Keep the black lead on the ground and probe both sides of the fuse. They should both be hot.
One side of the fan switch has to be hot at all times. If you get to this point and have 12 volts on one side of the switch, try the jumper wire again. If the fan runs you're done. Otherwise, continue below.

The other wire off the fan switch goes straight to the fan. Set your meter to "Ohms" and probe the switch wire that is not 12 volts with one lead. Probe each wire at the fan connector for continuity. One of the two fan wires (blue?) should show continuity to the switch. This is the 12 volt feed to the fan (through the fan switch). The other (black) should show continuity to ground.

Plug the fan connector back in and apply 12 volts to the wire on the fan switch that connects to the fan. The fan should run. If it does, try jumping the switch again.

Let us know what happens...
Awesome i’ll give that a run after work today!
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post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Take the plug off of the fan switch on the thermostat housing. It has two wires connected to two sockets. Use a jumper wire to connect the two wires that came off the switch. This simulates the switch closing in response to high temps. The fan should run regardless of whether the key is on or off. If it does not, it's almost certain you've found the problem. (Check the fuse).

Open the pressure cap on the thermostat housing and confirm it is full to the brim with coolant. If it is not, top it off, and rock the bike back and forth to make sure you get as much air out as possible. Make sure the recovery bottle is filled at least to the minimum mark.

If the fan worked in step 1, refer to the photo I posted in the original thread. Start the engine and monitor the temperature of (hold your hand on) the hose labeled "Outlet to t-stat housing" It should warm as the engine warms and the hose labeled "Bypass from t-stat housing," running back to the water pump, should follow. When it gets hot enough, the thermostat will start to open and the hose from the thermostat housing to the radiator will start to get hot. The hose from the radiator back to the water pump should get warm, also. When it gets hot enough, the fan should come on and the temperature should stabilize.
good and bad news. bad news is i’m an idiot when i tested the fan switch i had the fam unplugged. good news is it worked with the jumper wire. i’m putting the tank on and starting to do the touch test you laid out for me
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post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Alright the coolant lines heated up in order as you said but the bike just ran until the light came on then no fan still. so here are my thoughts/questions.
i tested my thermostat. in a room temperature climate it has just a small piece risen from the top which i believe is necessary to be able to even install it. ( small hole where it’s supposed to go in the t stat housing ) and all of the hoses are getting warm which leads me to believe it is opening. when i tested it the rod slowly rose out higher as the temperature around got hotter. so thinking this works.

would the sender unit cause this to happen? or the wiring to the sender unit? i’m not sure how to test the wiring to the unit but i do know how to get the unit per the manual. my thoughts were though if it wasn’t working then i’d either have no light all the time or light on all the time. not having the light come on at the correct temperature but not allow the fan to come on.

any thoughts?
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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 09:13 PM
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I forget, did you test the temperature sensor? How? The light should come on when the sensor reaches about 50 ohms. The water should be very close to boiling at that point. The factory test is at 60*C, expect 255-310 Ohms.

At this point you have two courses of action available. The best thing to do would be to use an IR temperature gauge to monitor the temperature of the elbow at the top of the cylinder head. Since you said the fan switch is new, and you've tested the fan and it works, it seems likely that the temperature has not reached the set point for the fan and the light is giving a false indication.

If you don't have a way to measure the temperature your only other course of action is to continue testing it to see if it boils over before the fan comes on. Since you've got good circulation and the fan works, I think that's a fairly safe way to proceed. To be more certain, test the fan switch in boiling water. If it closes before the water boils you're good to go.

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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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I forget, did you test the temperature sensor? How? The light should come on when the sensor reaches about 50 ohms. The water should be very close to boiling at that point. The factory test is at 60*C, expect 255-310 Ohms.

At this point you have two courses of action available. The best thing to do would be to use an IR temperature gauge to monitor the temperature of the elbow at the top of the cylinder head. Since you said the fan switch is new, and you've tested the fan and it works, it seems likely that the temperature has not reached the set point for the fan and the light is giving a false indication.

If you don't have a way to measure the temperature your only other course of action is to continue testing it to see if it boils over before the fan comes on. Since you've got good circulation and the fan works, I think that's a fairly safe way to proceed. To be more certain, test the fan switch in boiling water. If it closes before the water boils you're good to go.
I haven’t tested the sensor. i know i have to drain the coolant and do the water boil test. the book calls it a temperature sender or whatever but my thinking is even if that is bad would it reflect it by shutting the fan off? it’s still sending the temp light to come on at around the correct temperature. ( a little before it starts to boil over )

i do think the light is coming on at the right time but i can get a IR temperature gauge from work to double check.

i think that’s what i’ll do is test the fan switch even though it is new right from Triumph. i should’ve checked it before i put it in. and if i’m draining the coolant then i’ll test that temp sender too.

i don’t even know what else it could be like the cooling system is pretty straightforward and simple and so are the schematics for it. is the actual job of that temp sender to just set the light on the cluster on or does it help complete a circuit with the fan switch?

and thanks for staying with me through this hahah it’s starting to make me think i’m crazy
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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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you’ve been a lot of help
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post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 08:55 AM
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What evidence do you have that the light is coming on at the right temperature?

It has nothing to do with the fan operation.

Without removing the sensor/sender from the engine, measure the resistance between the tab and ground (you can use the hex of the sender) when it's cold this AM and note the ambient temperature.

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post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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What evidence do you have that the light is coming on at the right temperature?

It has nothing to do with the fan operation.

Without removing the sensor/sender from the engine, measure the resistance between the tab and ground (you can use the hex of the sender) when it's cold this AM and note the ambient temperature.
I have zero evidence. but i’m going off of the fact that when that light comes on it’s only after sitting or stop and go as well as if i don’t start moving it boils over shortly after.

I did a continuity test this morning and it came through positive

I might cave and take it to a shop even though i personally hate to do it especially when i feel like i’m right there. i mean the only other things in this system are the water pump ( which i think of that we’re bad my fan would be on almost non stop) or maybe the new switch i got was bad
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post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 09:22 AM
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Just checked mine. 65*F ambient temp and 1238 ohms.

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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chvvvr View Post
I did a continuity test this morning and it came through positive
What does that mean?

You verified water is flowing through the system correctly, so the pump is not the problem. You verified the fan runs when you jumper the switch, so the fan circuit is not the problem. This leaves the fan switch (new) or the sensor.

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