T3 Running Badly - Page 3 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
Hinckley Classic Triples 885cc Classic Styled T3's: Legend, Thunderbird, Thunderbird Sport & Adventurer.

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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 11:15 AM
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You should look at the voltage drop between the battery and the coils. The problem is not necessarily the battery, as the alternator powers the bike when it is running, not the battery.
I see the same thing. With the engine not running you should test the voltage supplied to the coils from the ignition switch (meter connected from ignition to ground). That voltage should be very close to what your battery voltage reading is ( battery + to ground), on all three cylinders (min. 12 volts). If it is not, you need to find out why, and fix it. I DO suspect there is something going on with that cylinder that is running cool, but one thing at a time. Get the ignition problems cleaned up first, THEN see what you have. ...J.D.

Last edited by Wire-Wheels; 05-15-2019 at 11:33 AM.
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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 12:14 PM
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Put the positive probe on the battery plus and the negative probe on the coil plus. The meter will read the voltage drop between the battery and the coil.

John
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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 01:56 PM
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Put the positive probe on the battery plus and the negative probe on the coil plus. The meter will read the voltage drop between the battery and the coil.
No need. Your brain can do the math [joke]… I'm also thinking about the ground side. Maybe a bad ground ? But you are right. Using a volt meter to check the voltage drop can be useful. A good way to check the viability of battery cable connections. I'd start with the kill switch and follow the circuit through the ignition switch, all the way to the coils. Could even be before the kill switch. Something is being lost somewhere. ...J.D.

Last edited by Wire-Wheels; 05-15-2019 at 02:41 PM.
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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again. I'll do some voltage tests. The battery is weak, so it does need replaced.

Now that you mention the kill switches, battery cables and grounds, I won't be surprised. The kick stand switch has stuck before, plus sometimes I have to pull the clutch lever to make the starter work, even in neutral.

No doubt, I'll find more bugs - 20 years old, but a great motorcycle.

Thanks,
Bonavent
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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The Ignitech igniter is installed and the bike seems stronger.

The bike was slow to start and was blowing smoke for while, but evened-out. I plan to take the bike out later or tomorrow.

I was surprised I didn't have to hook up the computer to program the igniter. Evidently, the igniter is set up at Ignitech and I've ask them the question.

Thanks for help on this issue.
Bonavent
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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After replacing the igniter, I attempted to take the bike out for a shakedown ride.

The bike stalls with I engage first gear. That's happened previously but I was always able to solve it by pulling in the clutch a few times and maybe shifting into gear a few times. I've lubricated the kickstand switch before thinking that was the problem. It didn't work this time.

I also noticed the tachometer was not working. It always did before I switched igniters.

Does anyone have experience with these problems? I'm searching now.

Thanks,
Bonavent
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonavent View Post
The Ignitech igniter is installed and the bike seems stronger.

The bike was slow to start and was blowing smoke for while, but evened-out. I plan to take the bike out later or tomorrow.

I was surprised I didn't have to hook up the computer to program the igniter. Evidently, the igniter is set up at Ignitech and I've ask them the question.

Thanks for help on this issue.
Bonavent
I am surprised too, because I had to programme my Ignitech, there is an excellent program on here from Irlmike.
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thank-you. I think the tachometer fault is due to the igniter programming.

The greater problem now is the clutch doesn't disengage, i.e. the bike won't roll in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. That explains the bike stalling when put in gear.

Plus, I can't get the clutch reservoir screws out. I'm using some lubricate and have an impact wrench that I'm gently using.

I'm also searching for solutions to the clutch problem.
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonavent View Post
Thank-you. I think the tachometer fault is due to the igniter programming.

The greater problem now is the clutch doesn't disengage, i.e. the bike won't roll in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. That explains the bike stalling when put in gear.

Plus, I can't get the clutch reservoir screws out. I'm using some lubricate and have an impact wrench that I'm gently using.

I'm also searching for solutions to the clutch problem.
Try rocking the bike back and forth clutch in and it might release.
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 02:56 PM
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The screws on the clutch reservoir are JIS standard, not Philips. If you use a Philips tip on them you'll almost certainly fail...

John
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