T3 Running Badly - Page 2 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
Hinckley Classic Triples 885cc Classic Styled T3's: Legend, Thunderbird, Thunderbird Sport & Adventurer.

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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Bonavent View Post
I'm almost ready to replace the igniter. I read 11.5 volts at both leads feeding each coil which is puzzling to me.
That could cause it to not run, but wouldn't cause a miss. The igniter works like a set of ignition points. Then the "points" are open you'll see the same voltage on both sides of the coil. When they are closed you'll see (near) zero volts on the negative side and 11.5 or whatever on the plus side. If you're trying to read it while the engine is running all bets are off.

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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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I understand, thank-you.

ACV on the negative side of all the coils reads .29 ACV.

I'm still searching for a conclusive way to determine if the igniter is good or bad.

The engine breaks up pretty badly at RPM>2000. The right side exhaust pipe is consistently 50 degrees cooler regardless of the temperature variation.

TY,
Bonavent
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 08:40 PM
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It's not AC, it's pulsed DC. You can use a frequency meter or a dwell meter or a duty cycle meter. The frequency meter should vary in proportion with RPM. The other two will give you a (steady) reading somewhere between zero and 100%. (If it reads either 0 or 100 something is wrong.)

Regardless, I wouldn't expect the igniter to cause a miss. I would expect it to cause one or more dropped cylinders.

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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 05:30 AM
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When my igniter went south the center cylinder dropped out completely, occasionally run again but progressively got worse until it wouldn't start. no miss firing just no firing.
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I appreciate the responses. I have more than a miss in the engine; it breaks up pretty badly.

I had difficulty fitting one of the outside carburetor diaphragms, so I'm going to pull the carb bank & maybe change jets around too.

The cylinder wasn't firing at all just one time, other wise, the only difference is lower temperature by 50 degrees.

It seems like the igniter would fail completely rather than get progressively worse before it failed. I suspect my bike won't start either and I'll be replacing the igniter too. In the meantime, I'll keeping testing and locate a duty-cycle/dwell/frequency meter.

Thanks again,
Bonavent
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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 01:14 PM
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My legend was acting the same as your bike misfiring on one cylinder every now and again it would kick in long story short it turned out to be the igniter replaced it problem solved
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:57 AM
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While reading through the string, I didn't see if you changed around your plug wires.
If they are the original wires, you could have one either breaking down, or a poor connection.
If you haven't already, do a resistance check on the wires, get a flashlight and look at the internal connecting clip at the base....etc.
I like to put a dab of dielectric grease on the boot connector interior to keep out moisture, and ease installation.

Good luck,

Dan
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 10:38 AM
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I'm still wondering about the low voltage readings at the coils. If your primary voltage is low, your secondary voltage will be very low. Garbage in- garbage out. ...J.D.

Last edited by Wire-Wheels; 05-14-2019 at 10:40 AM.
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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thank-you. I changed the coils and plug wires around and the temperature deficiency remained on the right side cylinder. I have a greater problem because how badly the bike runs. I've ordered the igniter from Ignitech.

After I charged the battery, voltage increased at the coils to over 11 volts. I've also ordered an Interstate AGM battery for the bike.

Much appreciated,
Bonavent
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 09:42 AM
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You should look at the voltage drop between the battery and the coils. The problem is not necessarily the battery, as the alternator powers the bike when it is running, not the battery.

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