Triumph Thunderbird 900 - overheated engine and rusty water pump - Page 2 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 11:49 AM
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Sorry for the divert in topic but it's still somehow related. I felt my TBS overheating as well yesterday and the coolant had an overflow episode. I thought it maybe due to being over filled from before. After letting the bike cool down I only notice that the reservoir under the tank had just about an inch of coolant in it.
@simplyj suggested to baby it home and I did. I did feel the engine heat and the fan never came on so maybe I have more to Diagnose

This is what the coolant level looked like when it was left to cool off for 5 hours



As per my Haynes manual it says to refill coolant when the engine is cold. I'm guessing that's correct.

I was suggested this coolant the last time we flushed out all the coolant.



If someone can suggest a better coolant then that's my real question.


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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 02:06 PM
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When the reservoir gets that low you end up with an air bubble in the thermostat housing. This can prevent the coolant from circulating and also the fan from coming on (no water on the fan switch.) Make sure you fill and bleed the thermostat housing first, then top off the reservoir. Then, check the level again when it cools down.

Oh, I use Zerex G05 in everything...

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 04:49 PM
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Triumph Thunderbird 900 - overheated engine and rusty water pump

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Originally Posted by WSC View Post
When the reservoir gets that low you end up with an air bubble in the thermostat housing. This can prevent the coolant from circulating and also the fan from coming on (no water on the fan switch.) Make sure you fill and bleed the thermostat housing first, then top off the reservoir. Then, check the level again when it cools down.

Oh, I use Zerex G05 in everything...


Thanks @WSC . I'll have to read up on bleating the thermostat housing first. I'm guessing you're suggesting the one in the middle and mix it 50/50 with distilled water. Right?



Should I flush out the old coolant first or is it fine to just add this new product?

You mentioned to check the level after the bike is cold. Does that mean I should warm up the bike before topping off the coolant (after bleeding the thermostat housing first)


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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
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I'll have to read up on bleating the thermostat housing first.
Not much too it. Take off the radiator cap and fill the system to the brim, rock the bike side to side to "burp" the system, top it off if necessary, and put the cap back on. Fill the reservoir half way and start it up. After it's started to warm, open the bleeder on the thermostat a turn or so until water flows (not spitting). Close the bleeder. Let the bike warm up; I wait until the fan comes on. Then, let it cool off and adjust the level in the reservoir if necessary.

Quote:
I'm guessing you're suggesting the one in the middle and mix it 50/50 with distilled water. Right?
Right, or, pay more for the already diluted stuff.
[edit] Zerex G05 and ZXG051 are the same thing. ZX = Zerex, G05 = G05 and 1 = 1 gallon. ZXG05RU1 is the same thing diluted 50/50, Ready to Use.

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Should I flush out the old coolant first or is it fine to just add this new product?
It depends. If the coolant is more than a year or so old, I'd drain it all out. You can stick a garden hose in the top and let it run out the two drain plugs for a while if you want. Then, refill it with clean 50/50 mix.

Quote:
You mentioned to check the level after the bike is cold. Does that mean I should warm up the bike before topping off the coolant (after bleeding the thermostat housing first)
Yes. fill it, bleed it, run it up to temp (bleed again) then allow it to cool completely before adjusting the level. The thermostat housing should be full to the brim and the reservoir just above the lower line.

When the system heats up the coolant expands and the excess is forced out through the cap into the reservoir. When it cools off it sucks coolant back in from the reservoir as the coolant contracts (shrinks?)
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John
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Last edited by WSC; 07-16-2017 at 08:22 PM.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-17-2017, 07:58 PM
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How this is supposed to work is that AIR in the system will expand and contract a LOT as the engine heats and cools. Liquid very little. The idea is to get as much air as possible out on initial fill to prevent excess belching. The bleed screw is intended for doing exactly that. But it is almost impossible to get all the air out when you've done a complete drain/refill. So for the first few heat up/cool down cycles it is typical for the system to belch a LOT of that excess air, often enough that an air/liquid mix will spew out of the overflow tank. What's important is to keep sufficient level in the overflow tank after you shut it off so that as it cools it sucks back in liquid and not more air.

Be very certain that the internal hose in the overflow tank is in good shape and is attached.

I try to do 2-3 heat up/cool down cycles while still in the shop and on center stand with the tank off. Heat up doesn't have to be all the way to "fan on". Good and toasty on the radiator hoses will do. You want to make sure the thermostat has opened and is flowing, but it doesn't have to WIDE open.
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