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hmmmm what's THIS hose......

2K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  JRobyn 
#1 ·
oh you, previous owner :grin2:

So I'm trying to return my air intake back to stock (2001 Legend), since it runs like garbage if you give it anything above MSF course throttle. I did not do the air pod mod, so I don't really know what it's supposed to look like stock. although I have a feeling I'm about to learn how to take the carbs off to get the stock airbox in :Huh

one thing though, what the heck is this and where does it go?


http://i.imgur.com/53NDjtB.jpg
 
#2 ·
That is the crankcase breather hose.

There are 2 connections on the bottomish area of the airbox.
That one connects to the one that is towards the front of the bike.

The other one is an oil drain. That one goes down and back near the lower shock mount and should have a plug in it.
The oil needs to be drained occasionally from the aribox. As long as you don't overfill the engine, not much oil will collect in the airbox.
 
#5 ·
I removed the secondary airbox. I also put an extra hole on the other side that matches the one on the left side. That requires some carb jetting changes.

BUT, I recommend that you put it back stock. Then when you feel like it do the mods one at a time, and give each one a bit of time before you go on.

My bike had pods on it when I got it. With totally stock exhaust. It ran great in Rhode Island when I test rode it. I brought it to Indiana and it would not idle. Only 5 or 6 hundred feet of elevation difference. I put it back to completely stock, including carb jets.
And I have slowly done changes over the years since I got it in 2003.

Stock jets are 98 main jet and 38 pilot jet. The pilot jet screws need to be opened up to about 2 1/2 turns out.
Some do better with 2 1/4 or 2 3/4.

It costs a lot of money to put all the airbox stuff back to stock but for me it was well worth it to have a bike that ran and idled well.
I just wanted to ride it and that was a good baseline for me to start with. Don't skimp on that stuff. The correct clamps for the rubber parts make quite a big difference.
 
#9 ·
Unfortunately, that often includes the Triumph dealers.
 
#10 ·
hah that's expected with pretty much every bike dealer, but this seems to be a good one, freedom cycles. I've seen them working when I ordered and picked up parts, looks like they may actually be.... competent! *gasp*. guess I'll know for sure if I have to use them ;)
 
#14 ·
No, not stock, chuck it.

Have you examined the online parts diagrams and lists? They are usually downloadable as well for future reference. 2wheelpros is one I use occasionally.
 
#16 · (Edited)
If there's no air box it's a piece of cake to flip the carb rack over, take the bottoms off and check the jet sizes. Much easier now then after you put the air box on. And, you might find you don't need an air box...

Just a suggestion...

(Another suggestion: get a JIS screw driver before you attack the carbs; those are NOT Phillips screws...)
 
#20 ·
Choke cable comes loose at the carbs. Pull the cable housing to the left and then slide the cable thru the space. You might need a little penetrating oil to get the button on the end of the cable to slide out of it's pocket.
Take the throttle cable loose at the throttle tube, then feed the cable thru when you slide the carbs out. It's a lot easier than trying to play with it on the carb side.
 
#21 ·
With an add-on fuel filter that looks like that, you can be pretty certain that both the petcock screens inside the tank and the little duckbill filter inside the carb fuel inlet fitting are knackered. Assuming that the duckbill filter was not previously removed (PR) by the previous owner (PO - or is that POS?).
 
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