So I'm trying to return my air intake back to stock (2001 Legend), since it runs like garbage if you give it anything above MSF course throttle. I did not do the air pod mod, so I don't really know what it's supposed to look like stock. although I have a feeling I'm about to learn how to take the carbs off to get the stock airbox in :Huh
one thing though, what the heck is this and where does it go?
There are 2 connections on the bottomish area of the airbox.
That one connects to the one that is towards the front of the bike.
The other one is an oil drain. That one goes down and back near the lower shock mount and should have a plug in it.
The oil needs to be drained occasionally from the aribox. As long as you don't overfill the engine, not much oil will collect in the airbox.
uh oh. follow up question. I believe there is supposed to be something behind the left side cover, secondary airbox?
there is nothing there.
sooo does it matter? reading the old threads some say nope, some say yep
I removed the secondary airbox. I also put an extra hole on the other side that matches the one on the left side. That requires some carb jetting changes.
BUT, I recommend that you put it back stock. Then when you feel like it do the mods one at a time, and give each one a bit of time before you go on.
My bike had pods on it when I got it. With totally stock exhaust. It ran great in Rhode Island when I test rode it. I brought it to Indiana and it would not idle. Only 5 or 6 hundred feet of elevation difference. I put it back to completely stock, including carb jets.
And I have slowly done changes over the years since I got it in 2003.
Stock jets are 98 main jet and 38 pilot jet. The pilot jet screws need to be opened up to about 2 1/2 turns out.
Some do better with 2 1/4 or 2 3/4.
It costs a lot of money to put all the airbox stuff back to stock but for me it was well worth it to have a bike that ran and idled well.
I just wanted to ride it and that was a good baseline for me to start with. Don't skimp on that stuff. The correct clamps for the rubber parts make quite a big difference.
Before you move forward (or any direction, for that matter) it is imperative you know where you are starting from. Otherwise, you don't know where you'll end up...
yeah not sure I want to take the carbs apart. if I get the intake back to stock and it still runs like crap I might have to have the dealer do it. not many shops around that do carbs.
hah that's expected with pretty much every bike dealer, but this seems to be a good one, freedom cycles. I've seen them working when I ordered and picked up parts, looks like they may actually be.... competent! *gasp*. guess I'll know for sure if I have to use them
The folks over at Freedom Cycles should be able to do almost everything you need them too. I have purchased two bikes from them and loads of parts and they have been more than knowledgeable on everything I have needed help with. They are top notch! :grin2:
Have you examined the online parts diagrams and lists? They are usually downloadable as well for future reference. 2wheelpros is one I use occasionally.
If there's no air box it's a piece of cake to flip the carb rack over, take the bottoms off and check the jet sizes. Much easier now then after you put the air box on. And, you might find you don't need an air box...
Just a suggestion...
(Another suggestion: get a JIS screw driver before you attack the carbs; those are NOT Phillips screws...)
have a honda and a yamaha, already have the JIS stuff. was looking at the carb, how the hell do you get the throttle off. or the choke cable, without pinching anything or having to readjust it all
IIRC, you should have Keihin carbs. If so, the choke cable comes off easily, and then you can pull the carbs out of the right side and flip them over with the throttle cables still attached.
ok. choke cable didn't want to come loose from the slide. might just be the little cable end knob stuck in it's notch. pretty sure this poor bike sat outside in the desert for a long time
Choke cable comes loose at the carbs. Pull the cable housing to the left and then slide the cable thru the space. You might need a little penetrating oil to get the button on the end of the cable to slide out of it's pocket.
Take the throttle cable loose at the throttle tube, then feed the cable thru when you slide the carbs out. It's a lot easier than trying to play with it on the carb side.
With an add-on fuel filter that looks like that, you can be pretty certain that both the petcock screens inside the tank and the little duckbill filter inside the carb fuel inlet fitting are knackered. Assuming that the duckbill filter was not previously removed (PR) by the previous owner (PO - or is that POS?).
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