TBS winter project checklist and questions - Page 14 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
Hinckley Classic Triples 885cc Classic Styled T3's: Legend, Thunderbird, Thunderbird Sport & Adventurer.

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post #131 of 228 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 10:26 AM
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Jason, any chance you have the plastic part of the rear fender lying around? I can desperately use one if you have it. The plastic part that gets riveted to the metal rear fender. Know what I mean?


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post #132 of 228 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Jason, any chance you have the plastic part of the rear fender lying around? I can desperately use one if you have it. The plastic part that gets riveted to the metal rear fender. Know what I mean?


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I have a few of them. You're welcome to one.
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post #133 of 228 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 10:56 AM
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Sweet! I need one that holds the cylinder for the rear spring compression. I think there maybe two types as the TB and the legend don't have that on their fenders. I'll drive by someday when you're working from home.


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post #134 of 228 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Sweet! I need one that holds the cylinder for the rear spring compression. I think there maybe two types as the TB and the legend don't have that on their fenders. I'll drive by someday when you're working from home.


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I definitely have at least one of those.
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post #135 of 228 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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made progress on the engine rebuild. Took apart and inspected/measured the clutch plates and all were well within spec so I put it all back together with the Daytona clutch springs. Also, gapped all the rings and went to install the new con rod bolts, but came across this problem:



significantly shorter than the old bolts. Still enough threads for the nuts to thread on, but obviously different bolts. I double checked the parts numbers and everything is correct, so I'm stumped. The dealership didn't seem to know either and said "they will stretch when you torque them down." I haven't rebuilt an engine in years, but I don't recall con rod bolts stretching that much. Maybe a fraction of a mm at best.

Other than that, things are going back together pretty easy.



Another minor setback that ate up a bit of time was, having misplaced my tool for holding the alternator impeller, I had to make another. Made this one a little nicer than the last so if anyone needs this for any reason, happy to lend it out.



still stumped on those con rod bolts so would love some insight
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post #136 of 228 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 11:40 AM
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When you say "Still enough threads for the nuts to thread on" do you mean the threads protrude from the other side of the nut? They need to protrude at least enough to get "full" threads engaged with the whole nut. Looks like almost 2 threads' length before you get to a full thread.

Are you using different rods from original? If so, I assume you ordered bolts to match the rods, not the original engine.

And, no, they won't stretch that much...

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post #137 of 228 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 11:47 AM
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Since the rod big end is part of the rotating mass, and as such is factored into the engine balancing, the replacement bolts must be the same weight as the originals. That much shorter, I imagine they weigh less.
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post #138 of 228 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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They do not protrude. I ordered the bolts bases on the new rods which were out of a 2000 Daytona. I did not have vin so it is a possibility that the dealer ordered for the updated motor by accident
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post #139 of 228 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 12:34 PM
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They do not protrude.
DON'T USE THEM!!!!! There should be at least 1 complete thread protruding.

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post #140 of 228 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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DON'T USE THEM!!!!! There should be at least 1 complete thread protruding.

Glad I asked. Definitely not planning on using them now. F that dealership I ordered the parts from. Looks like it should have been part number 1110060
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