well, after reading all the threads about fitting 600 coil sticks in place of the gills it seems that most threads ended inconclusively except one or two on the tigers so i thought what the hell, its winter and the bike is in the garage so i have ordered a set off ebay to try for myself, cost 45bucks for four so i am not out much if it fails! ordered some plug ends too so should be waterproofed as oem, will let you all know what happens when i fit them, if anyone has info regarding any issues to look for then please shout up!
I'm in the same boat as you and very interested in your outcome. From what I read, they work fine once you get them wired right, but they don't seal the top of the valve cover - you have to fashion something for that separatley.
i got some time this morning so decided to get into a trial fit and temporarily wire the coils in to see if it would fire or not! the middle stick is a b@#$h to get in but it will go from lefthand side with a bit of lube on the lower part of the boot, i used some .110 spades to fit on the sticks until the correct plugs arrive from ebay, note, if you are looking directly at the pins the positive is on the right, it might not matter but thought i would put it out there, well, it fired right up from cold and unlike before i could turn choke off almost immediately and it never stalled, i cant ride it as our roads are white!! tach works as before and as a bonus you will be removing over 3lb of weight from the gills and plugwires too! coils were $45 for four used and correct plugs for wiring $10 off ebay, the plugs are the same for all denso 2 pin coilsticks, 4.6 fords use them, mine were cbr600 items, so hopefully when snow is gone i can have a ride to see if all remains good but this seems a very cheap upgrade and with black braided wire loom you will be hard pressed to even tell they are not stock,
With an electronic ignition you might not notice a difference, but electrons jump more easily from a hot surface to a (relatively) cold surface. In the spark plug world, this is from the center electrode to the side electrode. Reversing the polarity can result in a 15 to 30% increase in voltage required to fire the plug.
The polarity of the high tension system is independent of the vehicle polarity. Electron flow is opposite what we call conventional current (positive to negative) so the center electrode of the spark plug is actually negative relative to the side electrode and cylinder head.
On older coil and points ignitions it could make a significant difference; the result was generally a high speed miss-fire.
I never got as far as wiring them up on my carb Tiger, but i found some rubber ferrules which fit on the bottom of walking sticks/zimmer frames (!) which wouldve done the job...
how far out do you think it could go before being an issue? i know there are tiger owners that have put thousands of miles on these with no issues but i am no electrical guy! on another forum (benelli) a guy measured the earlier tt600 sticks at 0.950-1.000 mohn primary and 11.1kohm secondary, versus triumph gill at 0.63mohm and 10.5kohm, i dont know if this differs enough to cause issues or not, he also said later daytona 675 were higher numbers and not to use, if any electrical gurus can chime in i am all ears!
The Nology coils are 0.6 Ohlm coils.
I thought there was something about how they load and fire that predicated the 0.6 ohlms. IrlMike is the ignition guy around here....
I don't have a TT600 manual & haven't done part # cross references, but the stick/plugtop coils on the 1st Gen & 2nd Gen (S3, Daytona & Tiger manuals checked) are all 0.8 ohm coil primary resistance. I would think the TT600's would be the same?
IMO that's close enough & on the good side - slightly higher than stock. A bit less current will flow, but it's almost certain the I (current) squared element of (spark) energy built up in the coils will be compensated by slightly increased inductance, as the two parameters are selected together for a particula system voltage... so long as they were intended for use in a Inductive discharge ignition (as on ours & all Triumphs & most other big 4 stroke bike engines). As opposed to coils for Capacitor Discharge ignitions which do require quite different resistance (& hence Inductance) parameters (usually higher, several ohms resistance).
In other words I would expect the available spark energy to be just as good.
So, so sounds ok to me?
Thanks for doing the testing guys
Maybe you might add a link to this thread & post a few words on my Ignitor thread in maintenance? (And Neil's previous info too.)
I have a set of used "sticks" here that I bought for troubleshooting my Sprint. I'll have to take a look at them when the weather gets better and see how they fit up. And I just spent $200 on the Nology coils a few months ago.
i just did temporary wires for now just to see if it worked, the original red coilwire went to r/hand pin on coilstick and the other straight to l/hand pin, thats all the wiring needed, when i do it properly i will run them along the spine and drop them down behind the coolant hose area,
the #'s on the coilsticks are 129700-3990 j0399, i will post pics of the finished wiring when i get the correct plug ends delivered, but it really wont be hard to hide the wires at all, i just wish i could get out and ride it!
while rummaging thru my various grommet collection i found a pcv valve grommet used on fords, i trimmed the bottom inch off it and tried it in the hole, it fit perfectly in the recess! and the internal hole is a nice fit around the coilstick too, bonus! so i ordered a two pack and fitted them tonight, i dont think they look out of place at all now the tank is on, i included the part# of the grommets if any one should go that route,[URL=http://s1206.photobucket.com/user/kryptonite1967/media/coilsticks001-1.jpg.html]
[URL=http://s1206.photobucket.com/user/kryptonite1967/media/coilsticks007.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb453/kryptonite1967/coilsticks007.jpg[/URL]
well, as i have been dying to try the bike out to see if my low end stumbles were anybetter with these coils i just got back from a 40 minute ride, the temps were at +1 and the sun had managed to dry the roads and the salt! it runs way better! i was slowing in sixth to approx 30 mph and then accelerating and it just pulled where as before it stumbled and coughed and i would have to drop gears, i do not usually ride like this it was just to test the coils, so far it has been worthwhile to do the swap and at a lot lower price than nology option. I also wound it out to redline and it seemed to pull better and no tach issues,
thanks! it may not offer much if any improvement over stock coils in perfect condition but is cheaper to do this than one new nology coil and the weight saving!
its black braided wiring cover, most electrical supply places have it, we get it from local hotrod suppliers, i will try to find a brand name on monday, it comes in a variety of diameters from 1/8th up to about 11/2 inches i also put heat shrink tube on first , the black cloth tape at the ends is hockey stick tape, you could use just that if you wound it neatly and it would look really vintage!
Hey cannuck, is this the correct connector for the coils you swapped over. The fitment is listed as: Ford Ignition Coil Connector 4.6 5.4 6.8 Cobra Mustang Pigtails.
Did you buy those with a harness already or the bare connectors and crimped onto the original coil wires, I don;t remember if there is enough slack to do it.
Here's a pic
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
3.9M posts
167.7K members
Since 2002
A forum community dedicated to Triumph Motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, cafe racers, bobbers, riding, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!