Carb removal - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-18-2011, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Carb removal

Sorry if this has already been covered. I couldn't frame it well enough in "Search" to get an answer. I want to stop taking it apart before I can no longer put it back together enough to ride it to a dealer.

I just spent the last three hours trying to get the carbs off of my 2002 Thunderbird. I'm really stuck with the removing the throttle cable from the carbs.

The first question, is if the carbs are removed from behind the motor before attemping to remove the throttle cable.

Per the Haynes manual, you back off/loosen, the adjuster, and move (push?) it down to release the bottom locknut.
I've got about a quarter inch of the cable adjuster thread below the upper locknut, and the adjuster doesn't push down.
In addition, I'm afraid to back the adjuster out enough to remove it from the lower lock nut, as I don't see how it will ever get screwed back in. The bar for the chokes prevents any access that I can see, especially with the carbs still up against the cylinder.

Thanks for the help.

Last edited by Vertigo1; 12-18-2011 at 07:00 PM.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-18-2011, 07:46 PM
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Much better to leave the cable fitted at the carb end. It's very easily damaged too when refitting there. Take it off at the twist grip if needed, but often the carbs can be slid out to the right & dropped on a bench of suitable height for any servicing without removing at either end.


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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-18-2011, 08:53 PM
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+1 to what Mike said. I've removed both ends at different times, and getting the carb end back together is an exercise in self-abuse.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-19-2011, 09:13 AM
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It gets easier after you do it 3-4 times.

If the carbs just need to come out to service the air box or for light carb work, the carb rack simply slides out the petcock side with choke and throttle still attached.

When I need to get the carb rack to the bench, the choke slide assembly comes off with the release of the two black slide clips.

For the throttle cable, I now start with breaking open the twist grip and it provides all the slack you need to move the carb end lug down for stress free removal from the throttle shaft cam.

The 'kept' nut in the adjuster stays in place while you unscrew the adjuster. After a few threads, it will drop out of the keeper when pushed down and you can then finish unscrewing with your fingers. The nut come off the threaded shaft to get the inner cable clear of the mounting.

Reassembly is the reverse but remember to reset your throttle lash before buttoning the carbs and cable all the way up.

This is just my experience and everyone here has all learned through private lessons.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-19-2011, 10:39 AM
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Just to clarify, Mr Bentwrench's 95 model will have Mikuni carbs & the OP's 02 model will have Keihin. The throttle cable attaches between the left two carbs with the former, & is a little easier to remove & fit. On the Keihins, the cable attaches between the right hand pair, hence sliding out to the right on these is easier (imo).


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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-19-2011, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the feedback. I''ll take another crack at it later this week.

To be clear for me then, you take the coils off for extra room, and slide it out the right side above the oil return line? Do you have to leave the rubber boots on the carbs as suggested in the Haynes manuas, (which also suggest goint out the Left side) or do you take them off.
Seems like an easier fit if you take them off, but getting them back on might be a major hassle. Those center clamps are right boogers.

I am going to be getting into the carbs. One of my cylinders will cut out for just a moment with a mild roll on, and stop firing entirely for about 15 to 20 yards with a hard roll on. Once it kicks back in, it runs like a top. That's the only symptom.

It started last summer after a despiration refill at a gas station that I would have passed on under normal circumstanes. I'm gussing fuel, unlike the Norton where most carb problems are electrical.

Thanks again

Last edited by Vertigo1; 12-19-2011 at 12:24 PM.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-19-2011, 03:04 PM
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I leave the rubbers on the engine. Whichever way you do it, it's tight, but is possible, and doesn't take that long if the cable is left on at both ends.


98 Tbird tank/seat, Sprint fairing, ZX7R forks+Racetech Gold Valves, 08 ZX6R shock, short sw/arm, Alcon 6-pots, Ignitech+TPS, T'bike 3-1+Beowulf can, airbox/jet mods, tubeless wheel mod, lots :) per mile, 55mpg ave(imp)
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-19-2011, 05:47 PM
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Take off the hose clamps which hold on the rubbers and clean and lube the threads well. If you position them carefully, you'll be able to get the proper tool on them to tighten them up rather easily. Be careful to get the rubbers seated correctly; I take a rag and spray some lube on it, and then wipe the interior of the rubbers before reassembly to help those carbs to wiggle in the boots. The new throttle cables from Triumph do not have the free end any longer, which means you have to turn the entire cable to tighten it at the carb end, so there is no longer an option to remove it from this end once you have replaced the cable with the new, cheaper version from Triumph. I really wish the accountant who decided to save a few cents with the new design had it stuck up his backside, carbs attached!
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-20-2011, 12:15 AM
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Get a small bungee cord. Use that to hold the airbox back as far as possible during the carb removal. I leave the rubbers on the engine, also. It is very tight. Don't try to force it or you'll bend the clamps that hold the rubbers to the carbs (and don't ask me how I KNOW THAT!). Triumph is also very proud of those clamps.

Cheers,Denny
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-20-2011, 07:17 AM
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Refitting at the carb end is a real pita dont disconnect it unless you really need too.
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