Electrical problems. Dead ECU ?! - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
Minitwins
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Question Electrical problems. Dead ECU ?!

Hi there,

I can't start my bike; It's a 2006 Daytona 675. When I turn the ignition on the instruments lights up and but a push on the starter does nothing at all.

- The neutral indicator on the dashboard does not light up
- Lights / turn lights work
- Fuel pump does not start (I have tested the pump, it works)
- Battery voltage: 12.9V (charged every time I have done some testing to keep it charged)

I have tested the EMS relay and it works (clicks + continuity test). But it's never triggered when I switch the ignition on.
Voltage is zero across the coil when the ignition is on (it should be 12V). I have tested continuity between the positive and the ECU pin B15 and the continuity with the other pin to ground. Both are good.

I removed the relay and put an electrical wire to bypass the relay. After that the neutral indicator lights on the the ignition is on but the fuel pump does not start and a push on the starter still does nothing.

I have tried to connect to the ECU using TuneECU but it fails and loops forever on "Initialization... ECU connected. Authentification... Access allowed. ECU identification.". I never get a green light flashing bottom right of the application.

Do you have any idea what I could test now ?
I don't have an other ECU at hand...

Thanks
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 10:44 PM
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I'm inclined to think a bad connection somewhere. Loose battery terminals, bad earth to the crankcase, poor connections on the starter solenoid. I take it you've already checked out the clutch switch and the sidestand switch?

Last edited by Terry Colley; 08-24-2019 at 10:47 PM.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
Minitwins
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Yes I think it's a bad connection somewhere or fried ECU. But I'm not sure

I have tested the starter relay manually and if I trigger it the motor cranks just fine. The problem is the relay not being triggered, everything after that works perfectly.

I have checked the clutch and sidestand switch sensors, both work fine !
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 09:46 AM
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I don't think your ECU is bad. You have a wiring issue. There are a couple of wires that oxidize inside a connector and a splice that cause similar issues as yours. There is a gray connector under the front left hand corner of the airbox that has a pin that oxidizes and can burn up. Post #12 in the link below has some pics. Then there is a splice joining a few wires in the wiring loom that comes down from the left switch pod that can oxidize and cause issues. You will have to undo some of the electrical tape to find the splice. I would also be checking every ground wire to ensure they are snug and corrosion free. Check the wire bundle near the steering damper. They have been known to get chaffed. Then I would check the wires at the bottom of the ignition cylinder and the back of the dash.

https://www.triumphrat.net/street-tr...fuel-pump.html

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Last edited by sharsh; 08-27-2019 at 09:51 AM.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicolaships View Post
Yes I think it's a bad connection somewhere or fried ECU. But I'm not sure
Why are people so quick to presume they have a bad ECU?

I'll go on record now and say 'it won't be the ECU".
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 05:40 AM Thread Starter
Minitwins
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Sorry for the delay, holidays

I have checked: clutch sensor, side stand sensor (not here but correctly shunted) with a multimeter
I have checked every connector I could find, cleaned them.
I have un-plugged the stator / rectifier.
The wiring from the key cylinder is not under stress and looks ok (I believe the instruments would not turn on if this wasn't correctly wired) but I have not checked inside (not sure if it's possible).
I have also checked the connectors/splice that sharsh mentioned, they all look nice and I have tested continuity with a multi-meter where I could.

Still: no change.

I'm presuming the ECU has a problem because it does not start when it should. On the other hand if I shunt the ECU relay the ECU starts and is able to detect the neutral and engaged speed. I agree it's unlikely that only part of the ECU is dead...

Any ideas of what I should check next ?
I think I'll start disconnecting everything that can be disconnected hoping to find the bad guy...
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 06:55 AM
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Have you checked all the fuses, it's worth it just to pull them all all in case of any bad connections.
Was it starting and running OK the day before, has anything happened in the meantime prior to it not starting?
Were you able to connect tune ECU ok before this fault?
Have you checked the engine stop/run switch?
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
Minitwins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottty View Post
Have you checked all the fuses, it's worth it just to pull them all all in case of any bad connections.
Was it starting and running OK the day before, has anything happened in the meantime prior to it not starting?
Were you able to connect tune ECU ok before this fault?
Have you checked the engine stop/run switch?
I have checked all the fuses with a multi-meter, I had to remove them to test them and the casing is clean and nice. I even brushed the fuses connectors to clean then.

It happened after checking my spark plugs because my motorcycle sometimes stalled at low RPMs. Spark plugs are fine, must be a too low idle speed. After remounting everything the problem happened; I must have moved some cables from the harness and it created the problem.

I never tried to connect to the ECU before, I bought the cable hoping for the ECU to give me the problem

The engine run/stop switch is working fine. If I turn on the bike the indicators / lights turn on, the honk works. If I use the run/stop (you mean the red one right?) it stops everything. Putting it back off and everything starts again.

Thanks for the insight. I'll try to check the key cylinder in more details this evening
I'm all ears for new ideas and things to test
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 03:52 PM
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Don't take this the wrong way but now you've explained the circumstances it's highly likely that the fault is due to to something that happened while checking the spark plugs. I know how much stuff you have to move to get to the plugs on a Daytona, these Thruxton owners don't know they're born
If you haven't already i would definitely go back under the tank take the air box off and double check everything. It's probably something really simple.
This is not me doubting your work, just 35 years experience diagnosing electrical faults on complex equipment, I always try to get as much information about how the fault started, and more often than not it can point you in the right direction.
if this is the first time you're trying to connect with tune ECU, your connection problems could be down to a few things, the least likely is a faulty ECU. not sure which version you're using Android or on a laptop, but it's more likely to be incorrect or missing drivers, incompatible OBD2 cable or Bluetooth module.
I had problems getting the Android version to work with various Bluetooth adaptors, the error message would say ECU not responding but the ECU is fine it was just the wrong adaptor.
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-17-2019, 05:04 PM
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I'm confident that it's a faulty switch or bad connection somewhere. Not the ECU.

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