Hello I'm in away a new member to this Forum,
The issue I have with my Triumph Daytona 955i 2000 model is:-
Started the bike in the garage on the paddock stand to just check everything over, and forget that I drained the tank of fuel, bike started (must have been on minimum amount and vapour), then of course stop running!!
I realised that fuel was the issue (after a few goes at restarting) but then noticed:-
a) the Fuel Pump was constantly priming
b) Engine Management Light was on continually
So after a while I pulled in the clutch and pressed the starter & the bike started and ran (at first with a bit of a sputter) but then perfectly & rev's cleanly.
But I still have the problems of:-
a)the Fuel Pump constantly priming
b) Engine Management Light being continually on (even after 4 heat cycles)
Would I be correct (with out a diagnostic check) that the pump & fuel filter could be causing these issues.
Also just to throw another spanner in the works I removed the fuel pump relay, and the fuel pump still constantly primed, the bike started and ran perfectly??????
Pre-02 fuel pumps are switched in the ecu, no external relay for it.
I'm dealing with a variation of this problem, for me both the wiring and ecu check out. But the issue started when I added a heated vest harness to the battery. Currently, the bike runs fine, no 'mil' light. Matter of fact the 'mil' only comes on when I turn the vest on.
Changed ecu, and reprogrammed, no change.
I'll have it apart in a week or two for maintenance, going to dig deeper into the wiring then. Let you know if I find anything else.
Assuming has std wiring and has not been modified, you are most likely looking at an ECU failure on the pump drive circuit.
Not as horrendous as might seem - ECU are quite cheap on EBay - generally very robust too with only a few failures of that pump or fan drive being vulnerable but chances more likely used one will be good than not.
Further update to Fuel Pump Constantly Priming Issue.
MIL Light has gone off (after third continued heat cycle),
Reset fault codes,
Fault diagnostic (TuneECU) shows:-
P0230 FUEL PUMP RELAY DEFAULT
P1231 FUEL PUMP RELAY OPEN CIRCUIT OR SHORT TO GROUND
Do we still presume that this the ECU?
OR
That the fuel pump is the issue?
There is no relay on your system
The fuel pump cannot run without power (and ground) and cannot generate its own (!!!!!), therefor has to be the ECU (with the aforementioned caveat that it is still the OEM configuration)
The ECU is not repairable. I had to replace mine for my '98 Daytona which has less than 20K on it. For different reasons. At some point, old bikes with old FI systems will become stationary objects to admire, not to ride. Probably easier to keep a Daytona 1200 going than a 955i. I sometimes wish my T595 had carbs vs FI.
Hello, i owned a 2005 Daytona 955i with the same problem, with ignation on, the fuel pump runs constantly:
Fault diagnostic (TuneECU) shows:-
P0230 FUEL PUMP RELAY DEFAULT
P1231 FUEL PUMP RELAY OPEN CIRCUIT OR SHORT TO GROUND
P1232 FUEL PUMP RELAY SHORT CIRCUIT TO BATTERY.
This error codes were always shown. I make an external relay for the fuelpump in the minus, but it's the same problem.
The low fuel level warning lamps lights up after ten seconds. But if you turn on de ignation and starts direct that the engine runs, after one or two minuts the low level warning lamps lights up. Starts and runs good, and the tank is filled up.
Some times he had error codes on the fuel level sensor, i replace the sensor, but still the same problem.
For the Fuel Level sensor the issue is most likely occurring only with full tank - you will likely find as the tank level goes down a bit, the problem will 'correct' itself until a 'real' low level, or tank is filled full again
This is a common issue caused by a ground loop on the ECU wiring from the Level Sensor - at the full level, the sensor is giving the lowest resistance. Very common, do a search on Low Level Lamp and you will find ton of information. Most common resolution is to remove the sensor and physically restrict the float from coming up past about the half-way point (it only cares about 'low or anything not-low, so having it not come to the top remedies the issue without changing its ability to properly record the low level
ECU has zero bearing on this problem and replacing it (for the failed pump drive circuit) will not resolve the low fuel level lamp issue.
Nor does replacing the sensor change this behaviour
ECU is not repairable
there is no '2004' vs '2006' tune - all maps are applicable for all years and there are certainly none that are specific to those years
Be sure to validate that the pump wiring is correct - the positive supply is from the ignition circuit and the negative (which is the enable/disable control) comes directly from the ECU
The only way pump can run continuously is if the pump has been hard grounded or if the ECU transistor is shorted (which is not uncommon)
I test it with an ECU from another Daytona, and the fuel pump runs good, and stops after a few seconds with the ignation on. (a 2001 model with a return line on the injection system).
So i need another ECU, i look on Ebay, but have some questions:
What means: IND MOD.B (see also model A, whats the difference?)
What means the number 2165581-7 (see also a lot off dash 3 CDI's, whats the difference?).
For a late 2005 Daytona, from wich year i can use the CDI, without reprogramming the tune?
Any ECU from any 2002 -2006 Daytona will work without reprogramming - as I stated above there are no 'year specific' tunes, the same applies for the complete range.
However there are different maps available for different exhaust configs and it would be best to reprogram with the appropriate one for your application.
That also opens up the possibility to use any MC1000 ECU from other models too (Speed Triple, Sprint etc) - however you MUST reflash a daytona map if obtaining from different model)
I don't know codes but I have a '98 with the Strontium Yellow finish. The paint doesn't look like a standard primer, base, clear coat finish. Almost seems like a pearl type finish with some faint coloration, possibly green or blue. Certainly not a primary yellow like found on the older 900 Thruxton called Racing Yellow. I think it's a difficult paint to match. I hope I never have to for my bike.
Hi all,
Having some problems with my 2000 Triumph Daytona 955i and came across this thread, hoping some folk with experience of these bikes can help...
So the bike has sat for almost 3 years in my shed, with a cover on. In that time (after about a year) it has been started and allowed to run up to temperature. However, for the past 2 years (roughly) it hasn’t been started because, although it would turn over, it wouldn’t fire. I’ve only just got around to investigating this now and after giving the bike a service (engine oil, filter, coolant, new fuel filter and fresh fuel, valve clearances checked-OK) in the Hope it would resolve the non-starting issue, it hasn’t. The only thing I noticed that seems odd is the fuel pump stays on when the ignition is switched on and the engine management light is on. I’ve not physically checked for a spark but I’ve sprayed some easy start down the intakes to no avail. No smell of petrol when I’m turning it over either so pretty sure it’s not getting fuel. Given that the fuel pump was staying on and having read these posts, I decided to try another ECU off eBay- this is off the same year bike (2000). I’ve plugged that in and reassembled everything and now the fuel pump doesn’t come on at all when I switch the ignition on. All I get is a faint click when I turn the ignition on, along with all the normal ignition lights. So I’m now wondering if I need to re-program the ECU with it being from another bike?
I have checked all the wiring and connectors (visually) and the only suspicious thing I came across was that a few of the pins on the main harness connector block (the big one next to the fuel pump housing) were showing some signs of slight corrosion so I sprayed some contact cleaner on and reassembled. That didn’t appear to do anything. Finally, before trying the new ECU, I plugged my basic hand held OBD2 code reader in and got the message ‘no link’. Tried this with the new ECU and I’m getting the same.
Battery has been on a trickle charger, voltage is good and it cranks engine over great.
If anyone can shed any light on what this might be it would be much appreciated!
Cheers,
Josh
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