Help - '91 Daytona 1000 wont start when hot... - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-29-2009, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Help - '91 Daytona 1000 wont start when hot...


I have a problem with my '91 Datona 1000.....

She starts from cold with no problems at all (some choke, no throttle and she fires up every time) but when she's hot (like when I stop for fuel) she refuses to start at all - not even any signs of firing. I can smell fuel if I crank her for a while so I guess the fuel tap is working OK.
On advice from a mate (?) I have repalced the battery (and it does charge - about 14.5V when over around 2000RPM) and have replaced the pulse sensor coil (and checked it's gapped at 0.7mm). The spark plugs are new and look fine and are correctly set.

If I wait around for 1 - 2 hours so she is cool again, she starts fine...

Could it be a carb problem?
Could it be ignition coils (although the spark looks fine, but thats when everything is cold...)?
Could it be something I haven't even thought of ?


If anyone can shed any light on the subject I will be eternally grateful....

Thanks....
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-29-2009, 08:11 AM
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Hi Ian,

Could be a carb problem, electrical or other things..

A couple of things I would suggest is to check the tightness of all the inlet manifold rubbers (clamps).. Also the fact that it is good when cold & no good when hot makes me wonder if the valve clearances have tightened up...

Cheers...Sweenz
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-29-2009, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Sweenz,

If it's carbs or valves I better take it to the mechanics.... I'm OK with electrical stuff but hopeless with the fiddly mechanical bits !

Just in case it might help anyone else, I'll post again when I get the verdict from the mechanics.... assuming thsy find a fix !!!

Cheers,
Ian.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-29-2009, 08:34 AM
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Coils have been the weak point on early bikes and this would fit symptoms. Closed up valve clearances would also fit.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-29-2009, 08:43 AM
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I would tend to agree with epynt1050 about the coils
(had slipped my mind about that with the early models)
Dam, I have a 92 mod with under 9000k's on it..Runs great hot or cold..

Hopefuly coils or valve clearance are the issue as they are easy fix's

Sweenz
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-29-2009, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys,

I'll be in touch with my local bike dealer (non-triumph because my local triumph dealer is too damn expensive !) later today - I'll let everyone know what happens....

A quick question (or maybe not ??).....

Is there a reliable and simple way for checking the ignition coils ? I have measured the input and output resistances when cold and they seem reasonable but I'm not keen on removing the fuel tank to measure them with a hot engine (the idea of a few drips of petrol on a hot exhaust scares me too much !)....

Also, the genuine triumph coils seem quite expensive.... are there any alternatives that would be worth fitting? I know I can get coils for my Honda CBR1000F for less than a third of the price of the Ttriumph PVL coils ?

Thanks all,

Ian.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-29-2009, 09:43 AM
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Hi Ian ...try this link for a bit more info
http://users.skynet.be/dirk.vanhoutt...phy%20FAQs.htm

You shouldn't get any fuel leaking without the engine running..
If you can do it, check the coils resistance when hot..Then you will know if that is your issue..

Sweenz

Last edited by Sweenz; 06-29-2009 at 09:47 AM.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-29-2009, 10:41 AM
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I have a '95 Daytona 900, which is fairly similar to your 1000. I never had trouble starting hot when my valve clearances were out, I had trouble starting cold. Once it did start, it would start again when warm with no problem. Several years back I was having more and more problems starting cold, until I adjusted the valve clearances. I keep better track of it now, so I don't have the problem.

From what you described, I don't think it's valves. I'd agree with the coils. If you've never replaced them, it would fit the symptoms.

As for leaking fuel when removing the tank while the engine is warm - I wouldn't worry too much. Have a rag handy, put it under the petcock, and remove the lines as normal. You could also set the tank up on some sawhorses and boards, lengthen the fuel line, and start it up with the tank over to one side of the bike. I do that when I synchronize my carbs. Let it warm up, and measure your coils again.

I'm just about to replace the coils on my '95, and I'm going with Nology coils and wires. Much cheaper than OEM from Triumph, and from what I've read, much more reliable.

Sean
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-29-2009, 02:11 PM
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Ian, A problem becoming more common on the earlier T595s is the crankshaft position sensor. It fails exactly as you describe your problem. Some require replacement and some only need the gap set at 1 mm.

Brad
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-29-2009, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone...

From whats been said so far I suspect the ignition coils are giving up when they get hot.....

Stneckle - thank you, I would have thought valve problems would show more when cold than hot...

Bradtx - thank you as well - the first thing I tried was replacing the pulse sensor / crank sensor. According to Haynes the gap for the 1000 should be 0.6 - 0.8mm so I set it to 0.7mm and checked it when the problem didn't go away....

As my local bike shop can't fit me in for a while I'll try it with some Honda coils (because I've got some in my shed !) to see if there's any difference - If the symptoms change I'll go for some Nology coils and see if that fixes it.

Cheers.
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