Have long been keen on altering a Thruxton, although a beautiful machine and design, I had an alternate vision.
My plan started with:
This is the general timeline but many smaller parcels have been skipped and apologies as I did not capture many photos of the progress.
Many thanks for the input from members through the vast number of threads throughout this forum that greatly assisted.
My plan started with:
- Remove airbox and swap exhaust system.
- Install a different tank, nothing wrong with the OEM, it’s still on most modded bikes and want to go my own way.
- LEDs all round, Motogadget M-unit blue.
This is the general timeline but many smaller parcels have been skipped and apologies as I did not capture many photos of the progress.
- Air box, rear guard, tail light, indicators, exhaust system, side covers, seat, headlight/ears were all removed.
- Gauges along with standard switches although not on the original brief got the chop.
- Found a tank that suited my needs and once the securing brackets and rear of frame were sorted, the new alignment raised the rear of tank, built new seat rails above existing to maintain the line front to rear, this was planned prior and were always part of the original plan. Once secured I then infilled with perforated SS sheet.
- The rear of the frame also got a few inches off and then installed a hoop with a milled out section for a flexible LED taillight and removed all unused frame tabs.
- Removed wheels and unlaced, Hydro-blasted hubs, polished spokes and rims then relaced along with new sprockets and chain.
- Polished engine side covers, cam cover and forks, new gaskets all round and reinstalled.
- Had some custom velocity stacks made up from a local metal spinner then installed some fine SS gauge mesh that sits flat, then overlayed a course outer mesh shaped with a tennis ball to achieve the desired curve. Finished off by rolling the outer bell to secure all in place.
- Changed out and relocated the front and rear brake reservoirs. Nothing special here, just generic online stock and reconnected using clear hose suited for brake fluid. Also as the airbox and all parts in that area were removed or relocated, I chose to relocate the rear reservoir just above the MC and welded a small securing bracket to frame. Tapped the hollow swing-arm pivot bolt to suit M10 banjo bolts and had a set of custom lines built to suit each side.
- Removed 99% of the wiring and with the excellent guidance from Tim (H3CTIC)…a lot of guidance…we got it rewired using the m-unit blue.
- Finalised wiring with gauges and warning LEDs, (Neutral, Oil, Battery and Low fuel). Tank has a thermistor and sourced a module from Spiyda in the UK to complete this circuit.
- Also sourced a single led voltage monitor from Gammatronix that shows levels of charge. 5 modes from Red flash = <11.2v to Red/Green flash >15.2v.
- Installed smaller torpedo style LED indicators all round including a 7” LED headlight, new brackets and new chrome bucket.
- Added clip ons and ‘purpose built’ switches.
- Designed and constructed a single sided license plate holder with single LED. Attached on chain side allowing it to be pivoted up on the chain guard bolt out of the way when removing the rear wheel.
- Replaced OEM with new Rectifier/Regulator, from Ricks Hot Shot 14-004H that is compatible with Lithium batteries, re-routed wiring and ran +ve via a 30amp fuse back to battery.
- Remove OEM horn, relocated new R/R up into the horns old home and installed twin horns (410 and 510Hz) each side of ignition coil. No relay reqd as using M-unit.
- Replaced instrument with Speedhut Speedo and Tacho along with a few flat top style idiot LEDs. (Speedhut, very professional, courteous staff),
- Drew up the Speedo/Tacho support bracket and had it Water jetted out of 2mm SS. Also drew up a rear carb support bracket and had that cut out of 1.6 MS.
- Speedo is GPS, so no cable to the wheel, installed a blanking plug in hub.
- Reconfigured space under seat to allow room for Ignitor, starter solenoid, M-unit, MotoCell Lithium Iron Battery, cable radius and seat locking mech.
- Built new seat base out of marine ply, milled out a few sections to allow more room for wiring flex and so forth, added a few more ply layers then waterproofed.
- Secured a rear (2pin) locking seat mechanism with a cable pull type release, no securing bolts seen or required. As the 3rd point of seat security, the seat base has a protruding horizontal 12mm steel rod that is inserted through a grommet that is in the rear tank support bracket.
- Re jet carbs to suit alterations (advised from TTP that stage 13 should get me close).
- Installed TEC 2:1 exhaust. Removed baffle and chopped out the 20mm section and refitted a 32mm piece of pipe around 50mm long, then added a perforated cone inside.
- After many months of searching, I acquired one of those friction style dampers that has many positive comments and as a bonus it fits the larger void at the front tunnel of tank and as a double bonus also looks pretty cool.
Many thanks for the input from members through the vast number of threads throughout this forum that greatly assisted.