Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

Re-wiring a 1973 TR7RV

4K views 34 replies 7 participants last post by  StuartMac 
#1 ·
I've recently re-wired a 72 T100R, using a new 'Lucas' loom and old but serviceable wires from the original loom All Ok, works just fine.

I'm now embarking on a complete restoration of my 73 TR7. I had to do some re-wiring when I bought the bike as a non-runner, and that was enough to show me that the loom is a mess, so it's re-wire time. I have Boyer and a reg/rectifier. There seem to be redundant wires that I think shouldn't be redundant, so I'm going to start from scratch with cables of the correct color and the correct wiring diagram. Should keep me out of the pub for a week or 2. Having said that, the bike runs just fine.

I have crimp tools, strippers, cutters, soldering kit etc, so I thought I'd make my own and fabric wrap it.

Rusty1 has shown how he did his T100r and that's very helpful.

I seem to be able to get the necessary components from Autosparks and Vehicle Wiring Products here in the UK. Whilst I can carry out a forensic investigation of the original wiring specs on the bike now, may I assume that the cables are generally 28/0.30? If there are others, does anyone have a simple list of what's what? For example, the black/white and black/yellow to the points chest look lighter - 14/0.30 maybe?

Had a look for a thread that explains all, but couldn't find one - apologies if I've missed it.

Many thx.
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Hi Andy, this is what I used for my Boyer and Tympanium equipped Daytona, all from Autosparks. Hefty wire only required for main feeds and returns, skinny wire for all other stuff and on my bike (at least) super skinny for threading returns along the indicator stems. Nothing smoked when I ran the bike for the first time.

25 Amp Cable - Thinwall 2.00mm². Equivalent to 28/0.30 Brown/Blue (feed from battery negative to ignition switch)
25 Amp Cable - Thinwall 2.00mm². Equivalent to 28/0.30 White (feed from ignition switch into headlight shell, 14/0.30 thereafter)
25 Amp Cable - Thinwall 2.00mm². Equivalent to 28/0.30 Green/Yellow (from alternator to Tympanium)
25 Amp Cable - Thinwall 2.00mm². Equivalent to 28/0.30 White/Green (from alternator to Tympanium)
25 Amp Cable - Thinwall 2.00mm². Equivalent to 28/0.30 Red (main return)
5.75 Amp Cable - PVC 9/0.30. CSA - 0.65mm2 Red (indicator stems return)
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 White
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 Brown/Green
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 Blue/White
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 Brown
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 Green/Red
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 Green/White
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 Black/Yellow
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 Black/White
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 White/Yellow
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 White/Brown
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 Lightgreen/Brown
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 Purple/Black
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 Red/Black
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 Brown/White
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 Blue
8.75 Amp Cable - PVC 14/0.30. CSA - 1.00mm2 Blue/Red
 
#3 ·
Hi Andy, On my original from new '73 Tiger the harness is not fabric covered, but taped with common black plastic electrician's tape.

There are some smooth wire sleeves also. The points wires, oil pressure switch wire, & some heading over rear fender are sleeved. There is a fat smooth sleeve that passes through left frame grommet & enters head lamp grommet. Some others also.

Looks like my harness is tapped together inside the "head tube" sleeve. I personally have found over the last 40 years a bundle of wires don't fracture the conductors as easily if they are loose in the sleeve. Allows each wire to find its own place & are not nearly as stressed. Ok(good) to tape harness together before & after the sleeve. But inside the sleeve I don't. I like to zip tie sleeve to harness at lower end. This doesn't make a perfect seal, so any water that might find it's way into headlight shell riding in rain, if it gets into sleeve, it can drain out. I find riding in rain, my shell takes in water.
Don
 
#8 ·
Hi Andy, On my original from new '73 Tiger the harness is not fabric covered, but taped with common black plastic electrician's tape.
Don
Don, I've now removed all of the wrapping from my 73 TR7RV harness. Whilst most of it was sticky, PVC tape, some of it (the first layer) was non-adhesive, shiny, black pvc tape - is this what you mean by original? I quite like it - it was still shiny, and it unwrapped really easily to leave clean wires beneath.

If so, I can get that over here from Autosparks.

I'm about to catalogue each and every cable to identify its length, where to goes and where from, and the terminations. I can then check my stocks and buy whatever else I need to reproduce the loom.

It would stand a bit of rationalisation too. For example, there are 4 earths from the frame earthing point just below the tank which run into the headlight - one to each of the instrument lights and two more to the headlamp. It seems to me that they can be rationalised down to 2 and that would help with the rat's nest in the headlamp shell. Similarly, there are redundant terminals in the coils area that can be rationalised. A good project on a cold and wet winter's evening with a coffee in hand!
 
#4 ·
Thank you Gentlemen. Brilliant. My current loom works, but it's stiff, grubby and has a number of dead ends. It's an unscheduled stop just waiting to happen, somewhere out of the way just when you need to be somewhere else by a certain time. It's got to go.........

Rusty1: many thx - that gives me a good place to start. I'll have to go and have a count - I thought most of the cables were 28 conductor - clearly not. My new indicators will be here in a day or so so I can see what size wire will go along the shaft to wire in a dedicated earth.

Don: interesting that yours is taped. Looking at pattern looms they are all fabric covered. Not sure what mine should have been, but it's at least partly taped now. I used sleeving quite a bit on my T100R and it looks really neat - so I'll be getting more, particularly for the connections into the headlamp shell and the runs down to the rear light and the points chest.
 
#5 ·
Hi Andy,

cables are generally 28/0.30?
If what's on the bike now is original, all wires in all original '71-on looms were/are 14-strand, including all the Red wires and the Brown/Blue. :( Moreover, original strands are slightly smaller (32SWG) than modern metric (0.3 mm.), so Lucas rated original wire for only 7.5A ... exceeded by the standard alternator above about 2,000 rpm. :Not again It's one of the "cheap shortcuts" I've posted about before, even modern 14/0.30 is only rated for 8.75A, all modern off-the-shelf looms copy original Lucas in this respect so it's one reason I don't use modern off-the-shelf looms.

re-wire time.
Suggestions:-

. The standard Lucas (original Lucas) implementation of Red return wires is over-complicated and fails if more than one wire breaks ... :Not again

. I use two of these, one in the headlamp shell and the other under the seat. Each individual component Red wire is connected to the nearest, they're connected together with two lengths of 28/0.30 'thinwall' (higher-rated but thinner overall than standard PVC-insulated) that join attached to an engine head-steady bolt/stud. On a pre-'79 kickstart-only bike, this simplified network is joined to battery +ve by a 28/0.30 Red wire from the underseat "Sleeve Connector", through the main fuse/holder.

. In addition to the aforementioned Red wires, I also use 28/0.30 thinwall for the Brown/Blue wire and the White wire between the ignition switch and Sleeve Connector in the headlamp shell that's the junction of individual component White wires.

. I fit relays in the headlamp supply as a matter of course, even if the existing headlamp is the crap standard BPF; if you don't fit relays, I advise 28/0.30 thinwall also for the Brown/White between Ignition Switch and Lighting Switch (on a '73).

. Apart from those wires, all other wires are to/from individual components could be 9/0.30 as its 5.75A rating isn't exceeded by the consumption of any component, the only thing that precludes this is not all colour combos. are available in 9/0.30. :(

. I use the above wire sizes plus 14/0.30 because crimp-on bullet terminals that work are available for all three from both Autosparks and VWP. The "1 sq.mm." (aka 14/0.30) ones don't work reliably on original Lucas wire (e.g. switch cluster wires, because of the aforementioned smaller strand diameter); for those, I have/keep some http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/453/w-crimp-type-4-7mm-bullet.

. When ordering from VWP, they also sell a variety of button contact that can, if necessary, be used in the insulated part of bulb holders (couldn't find the link :().

have Boyer
. Red wire from the B-B "Transistor Box" connected directly to battery +ve terminal.

. Red wire from coils' series connected either directly to battery +ve terminal or underseat Red wires' Sleeve Connector.

. Fuse in either the Transistor Box White wire (preferably) or Red wire.

and a reg/rectifier.
. Connect its DC wires (Red and Black?) directly to the corresponding battery terminals, one or other through a fuse (not the main fuse protecting the loom); don't replicate the standard Lucas rectifier connection in the Brown/Blue wire to connect the reg./rec.

fabric wrap it.
. Bear in mind wrapping was/is only to keep a manufactured loom together during transport (and original fitting on the bike-building production line). Once a loom's on the bike, any wrapping's just a pita.

. I've never wrapped any loom I've built. On a bike, I start by securing wires to top frame tube and drive-side seat tube (on a 'dry-frame' keeps the wires away from possible oil contamination) with releasable reusable cable ties. My first loom, having built it, I just couldn't be arsed to take it apart to wrap it. Turned out to be an inspired choice because I still own the bike, it's had some upgrades over the years, :whistle which were wa-aa-ay easier than if the loom had been wrapped.

. Any loom I build, once it's complete, tested and mostly covered by tank, seat and sidepanels, any wires still exposed I cover with lengths of what Autosparks calls Split Convoluted Conduit (scroll down the page to see the different sizes) and VWP calls Slit Convoluted Tubing ("Slit" is in the "Options:" drop-down); the Split/Slit is lengthways so the Conduit/Tubing can be fitted or removed from wires without needing to disconnect and thread them. :thumb

. If the headlamp shell has three wiring holes, I always split the wires to/from the frame and thread them through the left and right shell holes (and OIF frame gusset holes?). To allow Conduit/Tubing beside other wires or cables, Autosparks sell a grommet with a larger centre hole, or you can simply cut out standard grommet centres?

There seem to be redundant wires that I think shouldn't be redundant,
Off the top of my head:-

. Twins with points originally had a supply wire (White/Yellow on your bike) to each coil "-" terminal; only one's required for the B-B Transistor Box White wire so the other White/Yellow is redundant.

. Points require condensers, their connection was (on your bike) one of the two Black/White and Black/Yellow wires originally attached to each coil "+" terminal. The other Black/White and Black/Yellow wires originally to the points are now being used between the Transistor Box and the (B-B) "Stator"? So the condensers and wires to them are redundant.

. If the reg/rec. DC- (Black?) wire was connected to the original Brown/Blue wire rectifier connection, as I say, imho both reg./rec. DC wires should be connected directly to the corresponding battery terminals, so any break in the new Brown/Blue wire isn't required. :thumb

. Similarly, with any reg./rec., the original Brown/Blue connection to the Zener is redundant, as is the Red wire (usually) attached to your bike's airbox between the original rectifier and Zener mountings.

recently re-wired a 72 T100R, using a new 'Lucas' loom
interesting that yours is taped. Looking at pattern looms they are all fabric covered.
It's one of the changes Wassell ("Genuine :rofl Lucas") make to suit themselves; ime, Autosparks and British Wiring looms are wrapped correctly for their application; afaict, all 'original Lucas' looms were taped '71-on; however, it's becoming harder to be sure because even replacement looms can be old and tatty.

As Don posted, taping the wires between frame and headlamp shell is a crap idea; on my first T160, the White/Yellow wire broke there within a couple of years, because the wires had been taped too tightly by whoever built it at Lucas. :Darn Simply covering them with tubing, wires can move and flex individually as required when the forks are turned.

sleeving
to
points chest.
If your bike still has the original points cable, with the Black/White and Black/Yellow wires encased in black insulation, bear in mind the rubber seals in crankcase and timing cover were intended to work with that. Otoh, if you fit the seals over sleeving, it folds between the seal ID and over the wires inside, allowing a space for water to enter.

If you don't have/use an original points cable, Autosparks has the larger selection of sleeving OD; use the one that completely fills the passage through the crankcase and timing cover and leave out rubber seals.

Hth.

Regards,
 
#6 ·
Thanks Stuart - very helpful. I stripped out the looms today and they are sitting in a crate, as an oily, disheveled, knotty mess. I can do better!

I bought the non-runner, scruffy TR7RV as a project to have something do, being retired. I got it running and on the road, now it's time for this winter's project. I suspect the loom will be a significant part of that. Looking forward to making the loom to be as neat and tidy as I can make it.

Your advice, together with that from Don and Rusty1 gives me lots to chew on.

It's a non matching-numbers bike, so its value is limited, but this summer showed that it's loads of fun to ride, relaxed, torquey, an easy ride, and a complete contrast to my T100R (which is loads of fun in a different way) - so it's worth the effort to get it as smart and reliable as I can. Even if it'll never be worth what I'll put into it.

You can't take it with you so you might as well enjoy it while you are here.
 
#10 ·
Hi Andy, I've never personally unwrapped a late tape covered wire harness, so I don't know. I don't know if Triumph did an under wrap of non adhesive tape or not.

In my life experience with old cars I've found old PVC type tape, the adhesive can "evaporate" & the tape basically falls off with glue behind. Sometimes it's a gooey mess of old adhesive. I don't know why. I know for certain on some than fell off, it was sticky tape when new.

Regarding wire lengths, on my bike the wires in the center of bike where harness passes down/by frame are just barely long enough. 3/4" more wire in this area would make routing smoother & easier to install in my mind, but I've never done it on late bike, so I really don't know until I get there, just keep it in mind.

Yes there is a lot going on inside headlight shell. As Stuart said there is room in shell without forcing anything. However I've heard of aftermarket warning lights & headlight switch that are larger than original. Maybe that was on earlier bikes though??

Here is my shell. All original from new. I rewired headlamp switch to prevent pilot lamp operation key off. I would forget to turn off switch & battery would go dead. We've had daytime headlamp law for years.

Don
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Hi Don,

aftermarket warning lights & headlight switch that are larger than original. Maybe that was on earlier bikes though?
:nah All original idiot lamps are as in your attached picture - one wire direct to the terminal that contacts the bottom of the bulb, other wire crimped and soldered to the 'lip' at the bottom of the metal part of the bulb holder. Otoh, modern 'replacement' bulb holders have two male spade terminals, females spade terminals 'straight' on the ends of wires prevent most reflectors fitting; even with 'flag' female terminals, many reflectors won't fit. :Not again When stripping old original Lucas harnesses, I make a point of saving usable bulb holders with as much wire attached as possible (on the basis that it's easier to shorten wire than extend it ...).

Ime, Lighting toggle switches larger than original are old pattern ones, even Wassell "Genuine :rofl Lucas" manage to get 'em the same size as 'original Lucas', albeit sometimes the lower male spade terminals are at the wrong angle and have to be bent to greater than 90 degrees as in your picture to clear some reflectors.

I rewired headlamp switch to prevent pilot lamp operation key off. I would forget to turn off switch & battery would go dead. We've had daytime headlamp law for years.
Brown/White wire on same Ignition Switch terminal as White wire, or Brown/White wire originally on Lighting Switch replaced by a White wire?

Hth.

Regards,
 
#11 ·
Hi Don,

That's neat! I've never seen inside a headlight shell as neat as that - so that gives me an idea of how to lay out the cabling. Many thx.

I don't think the non-adhesive wrap was an underwrap - I think that it was overwrapped later by a PO. A 20m roll of the stuff is only £3-4, so I'll give it a go and order some when I order the new cabling lengths. And you can be sure I'll not be making the runs too short. I threw away that T shirt years ago.....

I'll arrange all the necessary cables in that bundle that runs along the spine first, with over-long tails out to the front and back. I can then temporarily install the loom and cut the individual runs to length, then remove the whole lot and wrap as and when required, and add the sleeving down to the oil pressure switch and the points chest. I'll terminate the cables last.
 
#14 ·
Stuart, Don, Rusty1,

I've ordered (from Autosparks) all of the cables and terminals etc, plus the non-adhesive wrapping tape (I know, I know....), plus additional in-line fuses and fuse holders: 5 amp for the Boyer unit and 15A for the reg/rectifier (120W alternator), plus a 25A for the battery (which presumably should go in the -ve side).

I've used your advice for the cable specs. It's been a useful few hours as it's completely clear to me now how the electrics on this bike work - they are not exactly rocket science!

A question: the rh Lucas console switch (the big polished aluminium switch) as shown on the wiring diagram indicates a front brake light switch (Sw9). There's a white feed in (i.e switched 12V) and a brown out to the rear stoplight via the rear brake light switch.

There's no connection between the front brake lever, the master cylinder and the switch itself (other than that the master cylinder bolts to the back of the ali housing) so how does this switch work? What am I missing? I'm not that bothered about a front brake switch as when I did my RAC/ACU course many years ago, the local police instructors made us all use the back brake a moment before the front (and hence the stop light is operated by the rear brake switch). I've never got out of that habit so I don't need the front brake switch - but I'd like to know how it's supposed to work!
 
#15 ·
My 73 T140V has the front brake switch in the casing and is operated by the lever as you apply the brake. If you can’t see it, take the lever out and you should see a small plastic pin in the opening of the casting. Or open up the casting, the switch is a bit Mickey Mouse to be honest and mostly sticks in the normally open state.
 
#20 ·
I get that scenario, the seat contacting the -ve terminal on the battery would effectively short both terminals of the battery - if there were a fuse in the +ve connection that would blow and that would be the end of it. It would be the same as dropping a spanner onto the -ve and it contacting the frame - that would be bad news if there was no fuse in the +ve.

My thinking was if a 12V supply in the loom earthed to the frame (say through chafing) - I'd have thought that a fuse in the -ve feed near the battery would be best. But there's no harm in fusing both the +ve and the -ve at the battery. Other than added complexity?
 
#21 ·
Hi Andy, The front brake light switch is hated by many. I've not had problems with mine. One huge problem with BOTH sides is trapping water causing corrosion. I recommend drilling 3/32" drain holes in low spot(s) on both switches. Exactly where you drill your holes will depend upon bars & where you like the levers to be for a comfortable grip. Find the low spots, mark them, & see what's behind before you drill.

Also be mindful of the wiring loom where it exits switch to not pinch wires on assembly to bars.

Back to the front brake switch it's a little tricky the way they did it. There are brown & white wires coming from silver housing going to black housing where brake light switch is located. The return spring in master cyl becomes the return for the lever. The lever has a plastic insert with an adjusting screw that presses a plastic pin. This pin separates a reed (blade) type contact when lever is off position. Pulling lever allows the contacts to come together turning on stop lamp. I feel it's best to adjust screw such it doesn't separate the reed farther than needed. I feel it can over bend reed & fatigue it unnecessarily. A good pin sticks out of the plastic holder 1/4" when switch is removed. A single screw holds switch to black part. A bit of a fiddle to R/R switch into black housing.

I feel a front brake light switch is important safety feature as I often hold front brake at stop lights on hills or crowned roads. Might?? help keep a driver from rear ending me.

I posted some photos of a good '73 switch & the drain hole I drilled on the right side black part.

Don
 

Attachments

#22 ·
Thx for the photos Don - they explain a lot.

I have a new Harris master cylinder and it does not have the nylon insert with the screw. I also have a NOS rh Lucas console switch with the same wiring configuration that you show.

I don't have that Z shaped piece of nylon with the peg. I'll be looking out for one at the next Autojumble.

Everything else I have looks just like your setup - Harris have even drilled the drain hole!

I don't sit in traffic on my bikes - here in England it's for riding on warm, sunny afternoons around our local rural roads, so I can get away without a front brake light switch. You know the landscape, bendy lanes, hedges, fields with sheep and cows, ivy-covered pubs! Definitely no city traffic! Not any more - I retired 3 years ago.
 
#26 ·
Thank you Stuart and I do recognise that you are 'the man' for advice on wiring!

I didn't really expalin what I will be doing and as it isn't what you would do you may still disagree!

I will have a thinwall 28/0.30 (rated at 25A)from the battery with a 15A fuse feeding a number of clip-together fuses protecting indiviual circuits and they will be rated appropriately lower than the 15A main fuse.

I have had a lot of success in the past with 3.9mm japanese bullet connectors and I think they look neat so the rewire will be using these - my crimp tool does give a decent joint.
 
#29 ·
Hi Nigel,

you are 'the man' for advice on wiring!
:eek: Thank you for the compliment.

will have a thinwall 28/0.30 (rated at 25A)from the battery with a 15A fuse feeding a number of clip-together fuses protecting indiviual circuits and they will be rated appropriately lower than the 15A main fuse.
I'm assuming you mean "from battery" negative? If so, two snags with that arrangement are:-

. Unless the 15A fuse also feeds wires/circuits without fuses, it'll never blow, one of the lower-rated fuses will always blow first.

. None of fuses there - including the 15A - can protect against the "something-metal-touching-the-negative-battery-terminal-and-something-else" posted already in the thread (e.g. post #19 by @Rusty1).

On a 'positive-earth' vehicle, several fuses connected to battery negative and rated appropriately for each circuit are an excellent idea, what the bikes should've had from new. However, bear in mind there are two possible electrical return paths to battery positive - the Red wires and the metal structure of the bike. Luckily, they both ultimately rely on a wire connected to the battery positive terminal itself; so, if only one wire is connected to the battery positive terminal and this wire is though the 15A fuse, it's the back-up if a given short-circuit isn't through any of the other fuses, e.g. something-metal-touching-the-negative-battery-terminal-and-something-else. :)

3.9mm japanese bullet connectors and I think they look neat
:agree I use 'em on Japanese bike rewires (except old Hondas, which use 3.6 mm bullets ... :rolleyes:). Nevertheless, again, they have a few snags ime:-

. The largest 'common' connector can only connect four wires - crimped on one wire, the other three connected with bullets. However, I don't know of a source for these in GB; I buy 'em from the US and have to involve someone there because the knob-end that sells 'em won't deal outside the US. :bluduh

. One of the things I do when sorting out electrical problems on old Japanese bikes is add an 'earth wires network', mimicking what Lucas did on Britbikes as standard. However, adding such a network so often requires common connections with more than four wires that I use Britbike "4.7mm" (3/16") OD bullets and snap/sleeve connectors as a matter of course.

One thing I didn't have when I did 'that' :bluduh T160 rewire was these from VWP - crimp like "Japanese bullets" but standard Britbike 3/16" OD.

Hth.

Regards,
 
#30 ·
Hi Andy,

hydraulic switch for the front brake
The later bikes used a 3 way adaptor to continue the hydraulic line plus a side for the switch.
It was between the yokes
:nod From a Triumph parts dealer, "adaptor" is 60-7176 and switch is 60-7155. Nevertheless, they're off-the-shelf car parts; if buying from anywhere else just be sure the parts have 3/8"UNF threads, not M10x1.0.

The only snag with using '79-on steel pipes to connect the 3-way is the one to the top yoke doesn't work with a pre-'79 top yoke, the yoke pipe/hose connections are at completely different angles. :( For this reason, on my T100, I screwed the 3-way to the end of the hose poking through the bottom yoke stanchion pinch bolt and made a short Goodridge hose to connect the 3-way to the top yoke hose mounting:-




... say if the Goodridge hose idea appeals and I'll list hose end part numbers, etc.

Hth.

Regards,
 
#28 ·
The later bikes used a 3 way adaptor to continue the hydraulic line plus a side for the switch.
Just search for a 79 hydraulic switch.
It was between the yokes

Or a goodridge switch with wires that is either a banjo or bolt style
I have one but can't remember the number
 
#33 ·
Stuart - don't misunderstand me as your advice and suggestions are appreciated!

One important thing I've learned from you is the original 35A glass fuse was 'blow' current and I've been running a 30A blade fuse thinking that was the same thing instead of that being the continuous rating. I've had the bike over 27 years and fortunately never had need for fuse protection!

Yes, I take your point and can fit the 15A fuse in the +ve earth wire and connect the single 28/0.30 straight from -ve terminal to the fuse block so I think I will do that.

I've just been into garage and had a look at the clearance for the seat. I agree there is not a lot of room but if the seat could touch one terminal then it could touch both? - obviously no fuse can stop the outcome.

My seat cover does wrap underneath the seat pan at the front so does insulate it but I do like your idea of the second battery mat on top of battery so thanks for that one.
 
#35 ·
Hi Nigel,

Thanks for your confidence. :)

Some thoughts:-

. Your diagram shows Red wires connecting Pod, Boyer-Bransden Transistor Box and coil series to battery +ve, but other components' +ve connections to 'earth' symbols; is that just for clarity or are you planning to connect those other components to the frame or other cycle parts? If the latter, I advise more Red wires instead.

. Your diagram doesn't show either the oil pressure switch or the spark plugs. Because all those 'earth' through their mountings on the engine, I advise a Red wire from somewhere on the engine (cylinder head bolt or stud through a rocker-box?) connected into the Red wires' network connected to battery +ve.

. Pod Black wire - I'd connect from the fuse directly to battery -ve, not into the Brown/Blue wire; then there isn't any need for a break in the Brown/Blue wire between battery -ve and the ignition switch (unless you want a maintenance connection inside the headlamp shell).

. Reg./rec. - Do you already have the POD-1P in your diagram? If not, I advise a 3-phase reg./rec. (POD-3P?), even though the alternator is still (original?) single-phase. Reason is, anytime you have to/want to upgrade the alternator to something more useful, stators are similar prices irrespective of output, which makes high-output 3-phase the 'most bang for your buck'; I'm guessing then you wouldn't want to have to upgrade an otherwise perfectly-good reg./rec.?

To connect a single-phase alternator to a 3-phase reg./rec., simply connect each stator wire to a different reg./rec. Yellow wire and, in the case of a Pod 3-phase, insulate the end of the unconnected Yellow wire.

Also if you don't have the reg./rec. already and particularly want a Pod, TMS is currently advertising the 3-phase slightly cheaper than a single-phase - http://www.tms-motorcycles.co.uk/store/products/list.asp?cat_id=143&order_by=code and scroll down to the bottom of the page to "Code" VR.10124/P and VR.10123/P.

Hth.

Regards.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top