Moto Grand Prix
Main Motorcycle: 1973 Triumph TR7RV
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA USA
Other Motorcycle: 1964 Triumph Mountain Cub
Hi Hermit47, To start with I did some experimenting with wheel balance. I found if more than 1 oz off I could start to feel it. To me bike felt "twitchy" at 65 mph. Not like wheel was hopping up/down, but just an unstable feeling. I found if back wheel is out I get a similar feeling something is not grounded, even though front wheel is balance. I can start feeling out of balance at about 45mph depending on how much out.
Having both wheels well balanced makes the bike feel much more "grounded" like it's rolling very smooth & stable at even 80mph. I don't know how much it helps higher speed cornering, but I feel better.
I've used solder lots of times, wrapping adjacent spokes as need. 50/50 no core solder such as sold for gutter/sheet metal work. I find it's a bit heavier.
I have a few genuine weights from the 70s in my stash. I don't know what they are made of, but I think zinc??
I bought a good selection of reproduction weights that look almost genuine. The difference is you can see seam on side with repros, which I smooth off. They were sold in only 2 weights originally so far as I know & 2 nipple sizes.
To get as exact a balance as I can I cut the factory type weights short with a hacksaw. I smooth, profile the lower edge where cut to look factory. Then discard the cut off bottom portion. This gives a clean factory appearance from a much smaller weight.
My wheel truing stand has 2 sizes of points that can fit center drill in axle or in wheel bearings. I grease the points well & the wheel rotates very freely. Very easily shows the small wheel weight in photo. Of course backing plate for brakes must be removed. Still an on bike balance with no brake drag is way better than nothing. Disconnect chain on rear during rear balance on bike.
I static balance close as I can get them. I don't know what the small weight measures. I just cut a few sizes.
On an aside I've been monitoring the position of the yellow circle on new K70 tires. I found the last 3 K70 I worked with the yellow circle is light spot by 1.5-2.0 oz. That's a lot! I just replaced rear K70 again a few weeks ago & it's a new carcass casting visually different inside, but size & tread the same. Similar out of balance at yellow dot. The tire rides differently though. Seems to have better grip straight line braking & cornering. Still as giggly on rain grooves though.
The photo is the cut down weight next to security bolt, light & heavier weights on front wheel.
I still use solder when needed though. I'm out of large nipple weights. My bike takes small.