assume that I can strip the switch
However, 'fraid you might not be able to "address" the "slight" centering; regrettably, DPO only tend to discover how easily the parts escape when they strip the switch without The Seven P's, then discover the switch isn't anywhere similar to the earlier ones, as on Andy's bike, and no-one sells a repair kit for 'em (afaik
). Then the indicators are removed because the switch neither locates positively on or off ...
If you haven't read the advice previously, dismantle and reassemble the switch inside a large clear plastic bag on a towel on a tray - bag to catch very small parts as they try to escape by flying, towel and tray to catch them as they try to escape by rolling, large so you can get hands and tools in, clear so you can see what you're doing from outside.
Having removed the switch lever and its mounting plate, you'll see a sliding white plastic cube that the lever moves. The cube pulls out of the switch casting with the bit of circuit board and the Green/Red, Green/White and Light Green/Brown wires beside it, because the cube is wrapped around the three wire contacts protruding from the circuit board.
. Hidden in the other side of the plastic cube from the contacts are a tiny
ball and spring, the spring is compressed so, when the cube is pulled out of the casting both ball and spring attempt escape by flying ...
. It's the ball 'n' spring that positively locate the switch on or off - there are three "V" in the switch casting, that the spring pushes the ball into to locate the plastic cube positively.
. The plastic cube also should enclose a a U-shaped brass contact that slides over the wire contacts to make the connections. The U-shaped contact should have two breaks part-way through it, they're often obscured by a mixture of grease and worn brass.
. When I reassemble, I usually ask swmbo or No.1 Daughter to fit the assembly of circuit board, plastic cube, contact, ball 'n' spring (the latter two stuck together with some Vaseline) back into the casting ... because they've both got longer nails ...
Flasher relay. Damned if I can find it or any sign of a mounting point.
round little tub mounted on a spring
While there are any number of cheap 2-terminal mechanical relays on Fleabay, '79 still used the oblong 8FL Lucas had supplied since indicators were first fitted.
Problem I find with the cheap relays is they flash according to the speed of the engine - accelerating down a motorway slip road, there's barely any discernible flash ...
I've done the rounds of the cheap relays and returned to Lucas, albeit to the more-robust 9FL, originally supplied to contemporary makers of other vehicles to work the indicators in 'hazard mode'. 9FL'll fit in the same bracket as the 8FL, it's just a little deeper.
Wiring. Indicator looms appear to have been removed completely.
Where do the indicator loom spurs normally join the main loom
Wires are normally part of the main harness, so likely a DPO 'hid' them simply by cutting off the protruding bits?
Under the seat, there should be:-
. White and Light Green/Brown wires to attach to the relay;
. Green/Red and Green/White wires to attach to the relevant rear indicators.
Inside the headlamp shell should be at least one each of Light Green/Brown, Green/Red and Green/White, to attach to the corresponding wires from the handlebar switch. If only one each of Green/Red and Green/White, originally each had a 4-way (two in each end) snap connector to connect corresponding rear indicator, handlebar switch wire, front indicator and one idiot lamp wire.
Indicators: Are there good quality Lucas or Lucas copy indicators out there?
I do have the originals
send them off for rechroming but last time I checked with my Chrome guy, his waiting list was months long...
The lamp bodies are plastic, he can rechome that?
If you buy new, ime don't accept the pattern ones with round stem holes and corresponding stem ends. As you can see on your originals, they have oval holes and two flats on the 3/8"UNF stem thread. Reason is, if vibration loosens a round one's securing nut, the indicator body just rotates around the stem; oval one has to be pretty-much dismantled for that to happen.
I added an earth to each from the bulb holder and wired these into the earth circuit on the loom
Essential when front indicators are mounted on painted and/or rubber-mounted headlamp brackets ...?
Fwiw, while my T160's Lucas indicators are blinged with clear lenses and orange bulbs ... I wanted something less visually-obtrusive on the T100. I bought what M&P used to call "Mini Stalk" indicators (my saved links to 'em don't work
but I saw same on a T160 last Sunday). Ime, the indicators from M&P have a 10 mm. OD stem - so I filled the gap between each and the standard 7/16" mounting hole for Lucas with an O-ring for extra vibe isolation - and they have both supply and return wires fitted as standard.