Static Timing - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
Grand Prix 125
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Static Timing

1972 Triumph 650 Bonneville T120R 4-speed

First, thanks for all the help so far.

Down to the end of a 6 month project. All back together, fluids & battery in, found ignition key, no carb leak, plugs and breakers gapped, ignition switch positions reviewed. BUT, it won't start. I may have to do a static timing. It seems like I need a timing body and plunger, as well as a timing wheel gauge/chart. Someone suggested a chop stick to find piston top position. What else would I need?

Any help appreciated.
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 02:55 PM
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All you need for a 72 is set of feeler gauges. Plug and plunger for the hole behind the barrels and a few bits assorted washers to lock down the advance unit at full advance. And a couple of screwdrivers maybe a small adjustable wrench.


Oh yeah I forgot to say watch the points plate adjustment screws they are soft metal and easy to screw up.

K

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Last edited by KADUTZ; 08-25-2019 at 02:58 PM.
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 03:28 PM
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I would expect your engine to have the removable circular cover over the alternator rotor, with the pointer for strobing. This can also be used for static timing at the fully advanced position.
It is prudent to initially check the acuracy of this arrangement, either with the plunger tool you mention, or using a piston stop tool and a timing disc.
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 05:05 PM
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Hi Vinny, You need to lock aau at full advance. I use some washers & a piece of coat hanger I flattened. See photos. It will be used to hold cam clockwise until it stops. Then snug bolt. Wire is sized such you can pull out of slot when bolt is tight.

Remember spark happens when points open.

Are you using ohm meter to check when points open?

Always back motor up a good ways, then turn forwards to take reading. This compensates for back lash in cam gears.

Remove round cover on primary & you should see pointer at bottom rear on cover & hash marks on rotor. Doesn't matter what hash mark lines up. The other has mark is not used for your motor.

Black/yellow wire goes to rear points & right coil. Verify that so you know what points are for what coil.

Do you understand how to move sub backing plate to set timing?
Don
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you. Not as bad as I thought.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. BTW, thanks for the correct name of the disc. Timing disc is more descriptive (and less lame) than timing wheel.
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Don. Very helpful. I'm a visual sort of guy and pics help a lot. I think you mean how to loosen the pillar bolts to loosen the back plate.
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Static timing

Thanks for the help. Where can I find the TDC timing body (D2195) and plunger (D572)? Maybe I'm searching correctly.

Vinny
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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I can't seem to find the plug (D2195) and plunger (D572) anywhere on line. Where can I find them or is there a substitute?

Vinny
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 12:40 PM
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Hello Vinnie
I use a pair of d cell batterys,some wire and a flashlight bulb soldered in series. I connect one of the wire leads to one side of the points and the other to the other side and with the advance locked in full advance. I remove the plugs and the timing cover placing the bike on the center stand and in gear I use the rear wheel to turn the engine looking at the timing mark. the light bulb should be on due to the points being closed as you get to the timing mark the points open and the light bulb should go out. If it doesn`t go out at the timing mark use the eccentrics to adjust points until it does. I have used this method on my bike and has worked for me. I had checked with a timing light and it has been spot on. The coils fire when the points open and the magnetic field in the primary collapses inducing a magnetic field in the secondary in conjunction with the condenser and you get a spark. This works real good if you have not moved the timing plate and the bike was running good previously.
Juan
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