Uprated clutch recommendations - Page 2 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Truckedup View Post
I have a T140 with for sure more power than any stock T140...It has a 7 plate Aerco clutch, stock pressure plate, 650 springs tightened down before coil bind, the studs protrude through the nuts a few threads....And...I use Valvoline VR1 20/50 oil, it is not Jaso rated an carries a warning it may no be suitable for wet clutches...My bike has no clutch slip at full throttle high rpm shifts or roll on in higher gears, it frees easiy when cold...
This leads me to believe the Aero clutch is the best choice because it's not fussy thing ...
Sounds like this may be a good option if I fo for a replacement. My thinking is that if the T140 springs, screwed down as far as I can does not address the issue, I will strip the clutch, check the basket and hub for wear and it they are ok, fit a complete net 7-plate clutch and potentially one of the pressure plates Don is experimenting with.
Cheers,
Ian
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DAVE M View Post
I'm not sure that my Ali clutch plate offers any advantage but it was shiny !
There have been discussions over whether the Ali is lighter than the original steel, and whether the Ali provides a more even pressure on the plates than the standard
Plewsy on here (Lunad on YouTube has very good videos on adjustments

Agreed, I am subscribed to his channel!
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 12:05 PM
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Obviously, everything needs to be in reasonably good shape as mentioned by Don and others ....But sometimes you think a part is worn, replace it with new, and a month later it seems worn again...It's like the part wears to the limit quickly and then stays like that for a long time..

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 03:13 PM
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Hi Boggie, No, don't just tighten springs. Your first step is measure clutch stack. That will tell you where your base spring setting should be.

I'd like to know what that number is.

Right now you are grasping at straws. I don't recommend that.

At the same time, wear of thrust washer & little hub flange is a part of that factor... So this gets more complicated. I didn't want to mention that prior. I still want to know your stack height before compensating for other worn parts. I have personal experience with worn spider & know you can overcome some slip from that wear by going tighter on springs.

The problem is, as was most correctly pointed out the wear man not be a factor in your problems.

Replacement cush hubs & baskets are not close to the quality of original Triumph parts. So don't jump into replacing genuine parts until they are shown bad.
Don
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TR7RVMan View Post

Replacement cush hubs & baskets are not close to the quality of original Triumph parts. So don't jump into replacing genuine parts until they are shown bad.
Don
And that is a problem,poor quality replacement parts..And sometimes the high qualty parts are a problem.
When I built the Triumph 650 race bike about 7 years I used Barnett clutch plates, 6, running in ATF...After the first series of dyno runs the clutch would not release. The plates were stuck so bad I had to pull the basket and dump out the pack and literally pry them apart ( I believe Barneet has revised plate material)...John Healy read ny complaints and we spoke on the phone..He advised inexpensive Tiawan cork friction discs and plates, 750 springs just short of coil bind...he said it'll be fine if slipping the clutch off the line is kept to a minimum. I did as he recomended running the plates first in ATF and later 10-40 bike oil...The bike needs a primary chain every 5 or so runs but the clutch has never been a problem with about 62 or so HP at the flywheel..

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 09:03 PM
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Agreed, I am subscribed to his channel!
tbh I was not all that impressed.....ok if you like bush mechanics, but the guy did a few things that I didn't agree with.

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(Where women blow and men chunder).
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 06:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TR7RVMan View Post
Hi Boggie, No, don't just tighten springs. Your first step is measure clutch stack. That will tell you where your base spring setting should be.

I'd like to know what that number is.

Right now you are grasping at straws. I don't recommend that.

At the same time, wear of thrust washer & little hub flange is a part of that factor... So this gets more complicated. I didn't want to mention that prior. I still want to know your stack height before compensating for other worn parts. I have personal experience with worn spider & know you can overcome some slip from that wear by going tighter on springs.

The problem is, as was most correctly pointed out the wear man not be a factor in your problems.

Replacement cush hubs & baskets are not close to the quality of original Triumph parts. So don't jump into replacing genuine parts until they are shown bad.
Don
Thanks Don

You are absolutely right; I need to do this properly. Time is my issue though; it is rare I get the change to spend large amounts of it on the Bonnie. I have 2 other restorations, my job and Dad-taxi duties to juggle. Hence my thoughts to tighten the springs and see....

I will try to make some time next weekend and report back. Reading your comprehensive explanation / process it looks like a 3-4 hour job but it has to be done and I would really like a good look at the basket and hub.

Thanks,
Ian
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 06:05 PM
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Hi Ian, I would just start with removing clutch plates & measure stack height. That will only take about extra 1/2 hour. Then you'll not be guessing on spring tension.

You will then know the next step. If notching is acceptable, and spring tension was not tight enough, you know correcting spring tension is reasonable next step & would be expected to correct slip.

If tension was already tight enough or notching is excessive, you know you'll need to do a full tear down & repairs.

Doing another guess on spring adjustment is not productive way to go.

Also, please take very clear detailed photos of grooves on basket & hub while plates are out. That will give us an idea of what you have & be able to make a recommendation.
Don
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Will do Don, really appreciate the advice and info. I should be able to find some time next weekend. Will report back with measurements and photos then.
Cheers,
Ian
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