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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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T140 bars

Hello,

I've been off the forum for a year or so as I've been distracted by a number of projects that have been cluttering my garage for the past 10 years. I now have my 76 Honda CB200 ( stop laughing! ) that I have owned for 34 years back in one piece and both of my CZ's back on the road, one had a complete engine rebuild.

It's interesting to spend time obsessing about something other than my Triumph ( 78 Tiger 750 ) but the old girl just turned 40 and here in the UK that means no MOT or road tax is required so as she is insured I woke her from her slumber and have been back on the road for a couple of weeks. Fantastic to be back on the bike and she feels like a jet compared to my CZ's!

Jumping back on the Triumph reminded me of how strange the UK bars feel, I find they bend in towards the tank a touch too much? Unless I am imagining it I'm sure I read somewhere the UK police had a hand in the bars profile, maybe they chose a shape suitable for high speed work? I could with a pair that are still flat but without so much bend inwards towards the tank.

If anyone feels the same about the bars as myself and has found a pair that suits them I'd be interested to hear about them.

One other thing, rather predictably the battery seems to be the only item to have suffered during the slumber, I did remove it and charge it every so often but my Optimate charger seems to think it is knackered but the bike seems happy with it ie. starts first kick, lights work etc. The bike has totaly standard factory electrics, I wondered if it might be wise to replace it? If so any battery type recommendations would be welcome.

Thanks, Tom.

Last edited by tommytiger; 08-21-2019 at 07:13 AM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 07:38 AM
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Being in the USA, my T140E came with the high bars. I don't like the looks of them so switched to what it called the "Western Bar"
(Part#97-1870) These were used on US Bonnevilles from 1966-1970. I really like the way they look and they're also very comfortable.

Here's a photo of my bike with the Western bars.



This page has a lot of good info on handlebars;

http://www.britcycle.com/Products/Ha...handlebars.htm

Last edited by eo1bart; 08-21-2019 at 07:45 AM.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 08:54 AM
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Hi Tom,

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommytiger View Post
I've been off the forum for a year or so
Actually, you haven't posted for over two years; good to see you back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommytiger View Post
how strange the UK bars feel,
I tried a pair when I was running-in my first T160 (the original US 'bars were somewhat high given what the bike'd do even running-in ... ); couldn't get along with'em at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommytiger View Post
a pair that suits them
Ime, much depends on how tall you are. First 'bars I tried after the standard Triumph UK 'bars were 'Norton straights', aka 'Vincent straights'. Problems I found were:-

. they were a bit of a stretch from the T160's seat, but a triple's longer than a twin and I'm a short-arse;

. in the late 1970's, they were only intended for drum-brake bikes, so the twistgrip stuck out beyond the end of the 'bar even with the master cylinder butted up against the speedo. mounting; however, I've seen 'em long enough for disk-brake bits for years.

I've had Hyde "M-bars" on one T160 for years 'cos I like 'em. Mine have all the bends in one plane; however, the ones on Norman's website more recently appear to show a slight (1"?) rise from the top yoke mounting, as well as the forward and backward bends?

The other possible caveat with Hyde 'bars is I've always used 'em with rearsets; the other thing I disliked with both UK 'bars and the Norton/Vincent straights was the standard footrests position, which works better with US 'bars.

Another 'bar I've tried and liked, albeit only for a short time, were UK BSA 'bars - they seem to have a similar shape to Triumph pre-'73 US 'bars but with only a 1"~2" rise and without the great width.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommytiger View Post
the battery seems to be the only item to have suffered during the slumber,
Optimate charger seems to think it is knackered but the bike seems happy with it ie. starts first kick, lights work etc.
Otoh, the battery was the subject of your last Forum thread - https://www.triumphrat.net/classic-v...-question.html ...

That it appears to be still going more than two years later might suggest it's the Optimate "lie like cheap watch"? I'd be inclined to try The Quick-'N'-Dirty Load Test':-

. Connect a meter across the battery.

. With everything switched off, the meter indicates 12.6V (+/- 0.1V)?

. If so, switch on just ignition; meter reading either doesn't drop or drops just maybe 0.1V~0.2V?

. If so, switch on all the lights; meter reading drops just maybe 0.2V~0.3V?

. If so, (without starting the engine,) leave ignition and lights on for at least fifteen minutes; the meter reading still doesn't drop below 12V?

. If so, chances are it's more likely the Optimate than the battery at fault - that said, the load test is only definitive if the battery fails; if it 'passes', it still could be failing; any more doubts about the battery, take it to a proper auto-electrician with the kit to load-test it properly.

. Finally, start the engine and slowly raise engine rpm while watching the meter reading; Volts should rise with rpm to 14.5V~15V @ 3,500~4,000 rpm, thereafter the Volts should hold steady even if you continue to raise rpm; the Volts should only reduce again when rpm falls below the 3,500~4,000 rpm. If so, rectifier and Zener are working correctly.

Hth.

Regards,

Stuart
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Blimey is it really over two years since I posted!

Cheers Bart that website gives a nice comparison of bar shapes, your bars look great and super relaxed but I want to retain a more UK/european look.

Stuart looks like my battery is toast, voltage was 10.6v when I checked and drops to 9 with the lights on. Looks like the optimate was correct.

Voltage rises to 14.6v at 3500rpm, it starts and runs fine but it's obviously not worth risking so I'll replace it. MandP are selling Motobatt batteries very competively on ebay, anyone had any experience of these batteries

Stuart do you remember what the BSA bars were exactly?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Voltage rises to 14.6v at 3500rpm, it starts and runs fine but it's obviously not worth risking so I'll replace it. MandP are selling Motobatt batteries very competively on ebay, anyone had any experience of these batteries
The experience with these batteries has been great for me, they do not apear to self discharge, so they always seem ready to go-even after several months sitting. I have no need of a battery charger now.
Since I changed to motobatt I have never had to replace one, on several bikes over several years.
They have been good for me, I just wish they came in a more subtle colour

Regards
Peg

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 05:41 PM
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Motobatt for me too
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 06:51 PM
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Motobat or Yuasa for me! Agree with you on the Motobat colour though Peg 🙂

On the suggestion of leaving the ignition on for 15 minutes: if you have points ignition, disconnect the LT circuit or there is a chance you can burn your points out, depending upon where your points cam is when you do this of course.

Cheers
Ian
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 06:02 AM Thread Starter
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Think I'll give the motobatt a go.

My Tiger was registered in March 1978 but built Nov 1977. I believe changes were made to the electrical systems of Bonnies in 78, neg earth, rita ignition, uprated alternator, better switch gear etc. which is causing some battery suppliers suggesting different batteries.

I'm pretty sure however the Tiger was left alone meaning it was withdrawn from the US market as points ignition couldn't keep the bike in perfect tune long enough to pass emissions testing?

The battery I'm pretty sure will be ok is the Motobatt MB9U ( 11ah ) I think the original batteries were ( 8ah ) so I'm just checking this is OK.

Good point ( no pun intended ) regarding leaving the ignition on Boggie, I've done this a couple of times by mistake resulting in a very warm coil, seems to have survived though. I think it's the coil rather than the points that gets fried in such instances?

Last edited by tommytiger; 08-22-2019 at 09:19 AM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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I've attempted to add an image of my bars.

I would like to source a pair that brings the ends approx 2 inches forward whilst remaining fairly level to the ground.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 10:51 AM
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I go to swap meets ( auto jumbles over there I think) and pick up used handlebars from motocross and enduro type bikes. Many are the lower profile type, similar to cafe style, with very little rise. Many dirt riders swap them out for their personal preference, and they’re usually quite cheap. I usually have to cut a bit off to fit the bike through my door, but that turns out to be about the length I like anyway. Just lay them on a flat surface to verify that they’re straight.
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