I tried to get some space between the steering stem nut and the top of the top yoke today but no success. I also don't have any space between the bearing dust cap and the bottom of the top yoke.
I think that because I installed tapered bearings in the steering head that the top yoke will not have space between it and the stem nut like the original ball bearings would have had.
called it good.
Nope, you haven't understood what's wrong with your bike. It isn't "good".
. If your bike "don't have any space between the bearing dust cap and the bottom of the top yoke", how can you expect "to get some space between the steering stem nut and the top of the top yoke"?
. Ian's bike doesn't/didn't have "space between the steering stem nut and the top of the top yoke" but it does/did
have "space between the bearing dust cap and the bottom of the top yoke".
. Otoh, because your bike doesn't have space above and
below the top yoke, the problem with your bike is the tubular part of the steering stem nut isn't longer than the depth/thickness of the top yoke which it must be for you to know the steering bearings are adjusted correctly
. Your bike has exactly the same forks as my T150; as I posted earlier, my T150 has a 1/32" gap between the underside of the stem nut hex. and the top of the fork yoke.
. I haven't yet had a chance to check whether the T150 also has a gap between the underside of the top yoke and the top steering bearing dust cap. So:-
.. it might be these forks only have a very small gap, that Meriden increased on later bikes/forks;
.. otoh, it might be a PO of your bike misunderstood the design and shortened the tubular part of the stem nut so the hex. hit the top yoke.
. It's only possible
the bottom of the stem nut on your is reaching the top bearing and adjusting both bearings correctly; nevertheless, even if it is, friction between your bike's nut hex. and top yoke makes it harder for you to judge when the bearings are adjusted correctly; bear in mind that, if anything, correct preload is more important on taper-rollers than it is with the original balls.
. For those reasons, I advise you to unscrew the stem nut on your bike and measure accurately both the tubular part's length and the depth/thickness of the top yoke and top bearing dust cover. Then buy a new steering stem nut with a greater
tubular length than that total depth/thickness.
Secondly, "because [you] installed tapered bearings in the steering head" has nothing at all to do with "the top yoke will not have space between it and the stem nut":-
. If the tapered bearings you installed are deeper/thicker than the original balls-'n'-races, only the yokes can be further apart vertically, because the bearings are the same - fixed - distance apart in the frame.
. As I posted earlier in the thread, the steering stem is through
both steering bearings but attached
to the bottom yoke. So, if the yokes are further apart vertically, only less of the steering stem protrudes through the top bearing.
. As I also posted earlier in the thread, the top yoke is nothing to do with the top steering bearing; the top yoke should still sit on the top bearing's dust cover and the stem nut - being correctly longer than depth/thickness of the top yoke
- should still have a gap between the underside of the hex. and the top yoke.