Loose handlebar controls - Page 3 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

 3Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 02:50 AM
SOTP Vintage Series
Main Motorcycle: 1971 t120r
Senior Member
 
rambo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: exmouth devon uk
Posts: 7,111
Other Motorcycle: Triumph Rocket 111
Extra Motorcycle: Triumph Thunderbird LT
Garage
There are rolls of gripping tape available that are used to fit on the edges of steps etc. The same width as insulating tape rolls but the tape has a carborundum grit on the surface. I use it on my motorcycle front wheel clamp against the tyre to avoid any slipping when it is in the clamp. Available at many builders merchants or hardware stores.

Now,where did that bit fall off ?
rambo is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
Minitwins
Main Motorcycle: 1971 T100R
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: san francisco
Posts: 19
Garage
Well, this was interesting. Installing new clutch cable and the ball snapped off on the lever end on the first pull. The fork was easy to get at on the gear box (thanks for the advice). Not sure why a new cable would fail so easily - and yes - it was a hard pull.

One question: That fork in the gear box only has about 1/2" of motion up and down. Is that a correct amount of movement? Wondering if my problem is elsewhere.

thanks!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3466.JPG
Views:	9
Size:	725.0 KB
ID:	650788  
eisenmen is offline  
post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 02:16 AM
SOTP Vintage Series
Main Motorcycle: T160
Moderator
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Great Britain
Posts: 6,252
Other Motorcycle: T100, T150
Lightbulb

Hi,

Quote:
Originally Posted by eisenmen View Post
Loose handlebar controls-img_3466.jpg

new clutch cable and the ball snapped off on the lever end on the first pull.
The nipple in the handlebar clutch lever should be cylindrical; if it's a "ball", is/was there a loose cylinder on the cable inner with an indent for the "ball"?

Nevertheless, if that really is a Barnett cable, not a fake, Big Black Mark.

When the handlebar lever-end nipple was a cylinder soldered to the cable inner, the inner was "bird caged" after threading through the nipple - the inner strands were separated for a short distance and then formed into a ball that fitted in the indent in the nipple. Then the wire-end 'ball' was filled with solder that both attached the nipple to the inner and prevented the 'ball' of wire and solder pulling out of the nipple.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eisenmen View Post
fork in the gear box only has about 1/2" of motion up and down.
Will probably have less when the clutch is properly-adjusted. Having connected the next new cable at the gearbox end, before connecting it to the handlebar lever:-

. Remove the adjuster plug from the primary chaincase.

. Loosen adjuster locknut and unscrew it a few threads on the adjuster, so it can't contact the clutch when you're adjusting.

. Initially, screw in the adjuster several turns; if you feel resistance change, so much the better; the idea is you want to be sure what Triumph termed the "Clutch operating rod" is definitely pushed up against the clutch actuating mechanism in the gearbox cover.

. Loosen the adjuster again, tighten it again but this time with the screwdriver held just between thumb and forefinger; reason is, if the screwdriver is held in the fist, it can be difficult to tell when the adjuster contacts the end of the "operating rod"; otoh, with screwdriver just between thumb-'n'-forefinger, it isn't possible to apply enough force to start compressing the clutch springs.

. Having set the adjuster accurately against the end of the Operating Rod, and knowing the other end of the Rod is against the clutch actuating mechanism, unscrew the adjuster between 1/4- and 1/2-turn, hold it in position with the screwdriver and tighten the adjuster locknut.

. Refit the adjuster plug in the chaincase.

Attach cable to handlebar lever and adjust for correct lever play.

Btw, if you haven't seen it posted before, my T100's clutch cable - long enough for US-market handlebars - has 48" outer including the ferrules, 51.5" inner including both nipples.

Hth.

Regards,

Stuart

Last edited by StuartMac; 07-30-2019 at 11:16 AM. Reason: Add clutch cable dimensions
StuartMac is online now  
 
post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 09:26 AM
SOTP Vintage Series
Main Motorcycle: T160
Moderator
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Great Britain
Posts: 6,252
Other Motorcycle: T100, T150
Lightbulb

Hi,

Quote:
Originally Posted by eisenmen View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hermit47 View Post
Looking at you photo I did notice that - correct me if I'm wrong, somebody - you've mis-placed one of the battery carrier shock mounting rubbers. See photo below - your photo to left, my battery carrier to the right. If you can't make out what I'm referring to, I'm thinking that the rubber grommet should go between the battery carrier strut and the tab on the frame, not between the washer and the frame tab.
battery carrier - it's riding on the oil tank shock mount


The 500 parts books' drawing (same drawing in the dry-frame 650 books) of the F6968 "Rubber washer" is ambiguous.

Fwiw, probably similar to the OP's bike's PO, on my T100, I found the "battery carrier strut[s]" (= parts books' "Front strap" and "Rear strap") aligned with the oil tank (not frame) tabs best without any F6968 Rubber washer(s) between 'em. Given the drive-side ends of the "battery carrier strut[s]"/"straps" are rubber-mounted, as are the top and bottom oil tank mountings, more rubber between the struts/straps and oil tank seems superfluous, especially since gorilla owners would simply do up the bolts 'til they squeaked, when any rubber washers'd be squashed into oblivion?

Quote:
Originally Posted by eisenmen View Post
What cleaned the wiring up the most was that this harness brings all the handlebar controls into the headlight shell - the original harness had all those connections under the gas tank.
Curiously, "connections under the gas tank" seems to have been original standard on the C-range, including the later 500's. The headlamp shell for my '69 - with the Ammeter as standard - had only one wiring hole; given the only wires from handlebar switches pre-'71 were horn/dipswitch and sometimes kill button, whether they were connected under the tank or inside the headlamp shell likely wasn't an issue.

I added '71-on handlebar switch functions like turn signals, headlamp flash and the better horn wiring simply by using the '75-'78 left-hand switch cluster; usefully that has headlamp wiring in a separate cable from turn signals and horn wiring, so I could thread the former into the headlamp shell and the latter under the tank; however, I eventually had two more wiring holes added to the shell.

The standard '71-on headlamp shell has three wiring holes anyway. However, when I originally considered using a '71-on off-the-shelf harness - for the wiring changes - I found the 500's were still 'front' and 'rear' joined under the fuel tank. If the new harness you've fitted doesn't have the connections under the tank, that's another change made by modern pattern harness makers.

Hth.

Regards,
eisenmen likes this.

Stuart
StuartMac is online now  
post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 06:41 PM
Site Supporter
Commentator
Main Motorcycle: T140 E
Lifetime Premium
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Reading Berks UK
Posts: 9,452
Other Motorcycle: 56 Plunger Tatty Cub
Extra Motorcycle: CZ winter bike
Send that cable back
In the uk a retailer would be responsible for a new one and postage both ways.
DAVE M is online now  
post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
Minitwins
Main Motorcycle: 1971 T100R
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: san francisco
Posts: 19
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVE M View Post
Send that cable back
In the uk a retailer would be responsible for a new one and postage both ways.
Bonneville Shop agreed to a replacement - they are sending the broken one back to Barnett. I found the ball and it appears that it pulled clean off the cable - probably one in a thousand bad one - no harm done since it never left the garage.

On the instrument lights - I did find some 168 wedge lights for the instruments to fit the new wiring harness. The warning lights were 98 and plenty bright, but the 168's were dim in the speedo and tach so I swapped them for these LEDs. See photos for comparison. These do need correct polarity so they have to be flipped around if not working . . . and I had two that didn't work at all (amazon crap).

I actually don't remember ever being able to read my speedo at night on my old 69 T100C, but then the headlight never showed me much of the road either. But I was young then and could still see . . .
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3476.JPG
Views:	7
Size:	731.4 KB
ID:	651040   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3480.JPG
Views:	7
Size:	1.21 MB
ID:	651042   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3486.JPG
Views:	6
Size:	903.4 KB
ID:	651044  
eisenmen is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options
All posts must adhere to Forum Rules

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter your valid email address, that can receive an automated confirmation message. Otherwise, you won't be able to gain full access.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome