clutch adjustment screw hitting cover - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 04:28 AM Thread Starter
BMF
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clutch adjustment screw hitting cover

Hi Folks, I was adjusting my clutch as general maintenace the other day and I found witness marks that the screw in the clutch centre had brushed up against the inside of the inspection cover. The Operating rod is the correct length (as close as i can measure it, dont have such big verniers). At the momnent the screw has about equal amounts of thread on both sides of the locking nut. I've got a 7 plate norman hyde Kit. Freeplay at the lever is about 5 mm at the moment.

At the same time there seems to a be a bit more clutch sticking then before. When bike is off and I pull the clutch in when in gear it takes a bit of pushing th ebike to break the plates free (which I don't remember), and once free, there seems to be more friction that I remember previously as I keep pushing the bike.

This might be totally unrelated but prevously rear wheel would ony turn very slowly when running in neutral on centre stand, but now it seems to be running faster than before and takes a bit of effort to stop.

I started looking at this as gear changes a got as little less smooth and I wondered if clutch was dragging while I was changing.

Any ideas of what I should look at first?
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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 05:49 AM
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Well for starters - if your clutch feels like its dragging - adjust the clutch centre adjustment and get your clutch working smoothly. This would mean that your centre screw would be slightly further in , maybe enough to miss the outer cover?

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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:03 AM
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Hi Brett,

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMF View Post
I found witness marks that the screw in the clutch centre had brushed up against the inside of the inspection cover.
If this is on your TR6, I experienced something similar on my 500 short after I first got it. With access to several covers from different years at the time, I discovered Meriden made the covers deeper several times, sometimes when they made other changes (e.g. the alternator rotor cover for strobe timing) but also on the quiet, without even changing the part number.

Another thing I discovered is the inspection plug seal - E8782/70-8782 - although an O-ring has long been supplied, it was a fibre washer when '69 bikes were new, and the original Triumph thick O-ring is often substituted by a cheap thin one. Both the correct Triumph parts definitely gave more clearance between adjuster screw and inspection plug; I managed to find some original fibre washers ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMF View Post
7 plate norman hyde Kit.
there seems to a be a bit more clutch sticking then before.
Can you compare a later cover with the one from your bike?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMF View Post
I started looking at this as gear changes a got as little less smooth and I wondered if clutch was dragging while I was changing.
When bike is off and I pull the clutch in when in gear it takes a bit of pushing th ebike to break the plates free (which I don't remember), and once free, there seems to be more friction that I remember previously as I keep pushing the bike.
Also on my T100 before I realised the adjuster screw was hitting the inspection plug. Have you tried pushing the bike clutch pulled in but with the inspection plug removed from the cover?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMF View Post
prevously rear wheel would ony turn very slowly when running in neutral on centre stand, but now it seems to be running faster than before and takes a bit of effort to stop.
The 7-plate clutch has greater contact area between drive and driven plates?

Hth.

Regards,

Stuart
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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 07:43 AM
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In neutral the clutch will not affect the rear wheelrtotation, this is caused by oil drag in the gearbox, when the oil heats up it will diminish.

We have no means of establishing reality outside our own frame of reference.
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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 08:47 AM
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I had this happen when I installed a seven plate kit. First I used a die grinder to grind the inside of the cap where it hit, then I found a replacement set screw for the adjuster . I ground it down and slotted it to a custom length so it would clear the cover. I also installed an extra thick gasket I found on eBay. If it hits, the clutch wonít release completely.
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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:10 AM
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"In neutral the clutch will not affect the rear wheel rotation, this is caused by oil drag in the gearbox, when the oil heats up it will diminish."

Agreed. Also, if the primary and/or the rear chain is tighter than before there will be more friction between the mainshaft and sleeve gear bush.
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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks folks, I was wondering if it would be better to modify the screw of modify the operating rod. (I had adjusted the clutch, using only 1/8th turn out to try to get max lift).

Will play a bit more before doing anything.
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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 05:19 PM
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I kept checking my adjuster cap as I did things to get more clearance. The adjuster will leave a swirl as it spins if itís still touching.
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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 04:47 AM
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Hi Brett,

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMF View Post
modify the operating rod.
Risking telling you something you know already, if you modify (shorten) it, you must re-harden the cut/filed end - aiui, heat the end to cherry-red and quench in oil.

Hth.

Regards,

Stuart
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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Hi folks, I've had a quick look around, but can't find the answer, I'm sure I made note of it at some point, but what should the typical lift be at the clutch when activating the clutch lever.
Interested just as a sanity check.
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