Oil leak suction hose connection T140D - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
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Oil leak suction hose connection T140D

Hi All,

Iím am having a hell of a time sorting an oil leak coming from the suction hose to oil block connection. It appears to me itís leaking between the hose and pipe no matter how tight or how many clamps I fit. I even replaced the oil block assembly with a new one, fitted new gasket, hose and hose clamp but no success stopping this connection point weeping. I even tried two clamps but it continues weeping around hose end runs back down outside hose and drips off the sump plate.

Could this be pressure coming back down the suction line from worn oil pump check valves etc? Anyone else have issues with this pipe leaking what was the fix?

Thanks for any help.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 04:28 AM
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Is it the return line?

If so, then is the flow restricted somewhere between the leak and where oil emerges in the tank?
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 07:18 AM
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Are you talking about at the bottom of the frame where the line goes to the engine ? Frame might be cracked..
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 11:00 AM
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its not going to be a worn pump (cant be)
doesnt sound like a cracked frame from the description of where the oil leak starts and then drips off

is the hose a good sliding fit onto the oil block pipe - it needs to be "snug"

have you done the "time honoured" leak finding method ; of clean and degrease the whole area then go for a short run and check for the source of the leak -- sometimes the leak is not where you think

i have had the sump plate leak on a number of bikes needing a good clean down and re-gasket
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 04:50 PM
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Hi rugger001, Hmmm.... This is very odd. What is the diameter of the metal pipe at junction block? As was asked this is old block at motor, not frame.

I've done feed hoses on a few without issues. I've always used either Gates 3/8 auto transmission cooler hose or 3/8 fuel injection hose. It seems readily available in AU auto parts stores. Both these are the same size as original Triumph. I've reused the original Triumph clamps or used new that are shaped like Triumph clamps. I never use the worm screw type clamps if possible. They do not pinch as evenly.

The 5/16 return metal lines use 5/16 hose. Oddly that can be not so simple as it seems the steel pipe of Triumph is slightly undersize for the 5/16 hose sold. Different manufactures of hose have different ID in real life so you may have to experiment. I find Gates fuel injection hose 5/16 tends to fit better than most. However the 3/8 size hose fits perfectly in my experience.

The 650 type old feed pipe/junction both pipes are 5/16. I seen one case where early pipes were installed on late motor & as expected the 3/8 line couldn't be clamped such to not leak.

As was suggested if you have 3/8 hose & 3/8 pipe you need some very careful exam to determine the cause as it is not common to leak here. The Gates 3/8 hose is a snug slip fit over steel pipes at both motor & frame sump.
Don
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 05:18 AM Thread Starter
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Hi guys thanks for the responses.

The leak is actually at the 3/8Ē hose connection weíre it connects to the oil junction block. (Right hand side at underside of engine) Definitely the suction side not the return, the return 5/16Ē hose is oil tight and never an issue. Sump plate connection is not leaking but because opposite end leaks it weeps out under the screw clamp and dribbles back along hose then drips off at lowest point e.g. sump plate drain plug.

I will definitely try different hose, Iím currently using the cut to any length hose from Supercheap Auto here in Oz. I donít believe itís the best quality, but has never let me down for other situations/uses.

Very valid point though the tightness of the hose to pipe, current hose isnít as snug as I would like but is stamped with 3/8Ē oil cooler hose or some such. I will have to try other clamp options as well and will investigate what the original triumph style was.

Cheers,

John.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 12:55 PM
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It could be as simple as a poorly made or faulty piece of hose - maybe try some from another supplier
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 11:57 PM
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Hi ruger001, This is my bike with Gates 3/8 auto trans cooler hose & original clamp from new. Does not even seep.

This is from AU parts place. Just for the photo so you can see what it looks like. Get size to fit 3/8 hose when you buy the hose. The clamp ears should not touch when pinched tight around hose. If they do you need smaller clamp. That price seems high?? They sell Gates hose also.

https://iapaustralia.com/140472

The trans cooler hose I got is not a loose fit on pipe. It's a snug slip fit. Also make sure end of pipe is not sharp so it doesn't shave any rubber off interior of hose. Any rubber will get stuck in oil pump check ball.

Note, the rag is to catch a few drips of trans oil from the pivot shaft for shift quadrant. Has seeped here from new. That is a non sealed area from factory & often seeps. I now machine an aluminum cap & silicon it over the shaft to stop the leak. Also silicon the cotter pin. The shaft rotates with quadrant so you can't glue the shaft itself. Cardboard under chain is to catch chain oil drops. I usually lube chain before every ride.
Don
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Shall try the gates hose and some of the original style clamps this weekend. The really odd thing is it doesnít leak a drop parked in the is area its only when the motor is running. Thatís why I thought it was somehow getting pressure back in this line while engine was ticking over, its very strange to leak here in the suction side...
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 04:42 PM
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Hi ruger001, Hmm... New information might change things. We must not jump to conclusions or guess at this point.

Kind of sounding like the real leak is from the junction block gasket area. Clean the area bone dry. I know easier said than done. Start motor & run in briefly. Then check. Some times new clean oil is very hard to spot on a small leak or seep. Take some needle nose pliers & tissue, strong torch (flash light) with on road test. Pull over often & check. Use pliers to put tissue up to pipe/gasket area. Look at tissue for signs of oil. Practice in garage with motor cold. Take a piece of plastic to lay on while your inspecting on road test if needed.

I would recommend diagnosing leak before you do any other work. Again area must be dry before the tests. I mean bone dry or you can get false results.

While riding there can be very odd wind flows around motor & you can get some surprises as to where the real source of leak is.

Don
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