Thanks for the confidence.
Suppose I need a stator...
Nothing in your previous post says the problem is only the stator ... could be the rotor ... could be both. You know whether the existing stator and rotor are original; if they are, they're both the thick end of half-a-century old? If so, and price is not a factor, new stator and old rotor could be false economy.
Seems be perfect time to upgrade to 3 phase. But, will the 3 phase still allow my bike to start with flat battery? I am using points
However, if you get a flat battery with a high-output 3-phase alternator, Something Is
With high-output 3-phase, even my T160's old 11Ah, 90 ccA lead-acid batteries always had enough power to electric-start ... mind, they do have Rita e.i. instead of shonky old points ...
Btw, you know to buy "Made IN UK/England" stator 'n' rotor, not Wassell "Genuine Lucas"
? If Mitch Klempf doesn't have the former, check with John Healy who in the US does?
what would you do for rectifier, regulator? Use the 3 phase rectifier & 3 zeners or what brand rectifier/regulator.
I'd go for a 3-phase reg./rec., either Podtronics or one of the cheap Ebay Chinese Honda ones. While you can still get good 3-phase plate rectifiers, the old T140E "3 zeners" are 'negative ground' only and NLA afaik
; the old 'positive ground' arrangement was two 'matched' Zeners on the DC and they've been NLA for ages.
What is most durable & trouble free in you experience?
I want the most reliable.
Well, the oldest of my T160's rectifier-'n'-matched-Zeners is now something like 36 years old ...
Podtronics has been around since since God was a boy, the guy who put me on to the cheap Ebay Chinese reg./rec. ("NickL" on BritBike) posted he's been running his oldest for about eight or nine years?
The only other possible factor between the aforementioned reg./rec. might be size? I can post the dimensions of a Chinese Honda reg./rec. this evening or tomorrow, you might want to check how it compares to the size of a Pod?
Or am I better off just replacing with what I have now?
All new rotors and stators are similar prices so high-output 3-phase stator is the most 'bang for your buck'.
BUT (and it's a J-Lo), ...
(original type 415 headlamp).
Headlight on all the time as I always ride with headlight on.
... I'm wondering why you haven't changed the pilot bulb for an Eagle Eye LED off the 'Bay and use that in daylight?
If your bike has the standard pilot bulb, it's on with the headlamp, so that's 0.5A-ish wasted for nothing. Bear in mind one of the standard Eagle Eyes recommended by
is a straight replacement for the standard incandescent pilot bulb and holder, and it has two wires for connection to the bike's -ve and +ve wiring. Either the 10W or the 20W Eagle Eye will put out more actual light than the shonky 415 headlamp bulb, and (assuming the 415 dip is 35W?) even the 20W is drawing less Amps than the headlamp.
Even if that doesn't fix the charging problem and you still need to shell out for new rotor, stator and reg./rec., worst-case the bike has gained a better daylight riding lamp?
Shop manual states use good quality moving coil amp & volt meters. Is that really necessary?
The manual was written before digital meters.
MY next task is get a proper 1ohm resister.
Pm "Magnetoman" on BritBike; some time ago, he suggested something more-modern and better, I just can't find the post and I've been meaning to pm him.