What the heck is this crap? - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
Grand Prix 250
Main Motorcycle: 1972 T100R Daytona
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What the heck is this crap?

Pulled the carbs from my T100R and the right hand one was full of this powdery white substance. Left hand one didn't have any. I'm surprised it ran as well as it did. I just started it up for the first time in 5 years and it ran but not with the choke opened. I decided the carbs could probably use some cleaning.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
Grand Prix 250
Main Motorcycle: 1972 T100R Daytona
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Zinc oxide? Corrosion of the aluminum from water somehow? Is the carb tanked? Or will something dissolve it?
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 02:45 PM
wol
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small wire brush in a dremel will shift most of it -
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 02:54 PM
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I had that stuff in my carbs before, too. I assume itís the residue from what passes for fuel these days drying up in the carbs. Iíve had float bowls with holes eaten through the bottom once I cleaned that stuff out. Try soaking the parts in white vinegar before going further. Any time you arenít going to ride it for a while drain the fuel from the tank and float bowls or youíll be doing that same dance.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 02:57 PM
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Search for posts on cleaning the carbs. Welding tip reaming tool works very well.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 01:29 AM
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Main Motorcycle: 1973 Triumph TR7RV
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Hi Eric, My carb looked like that after 34 years of storage. Odd it would only be one. Is that rust on banjo bolt? Maybe had a little water in bowl??

Try submerging in white vinegar. I've found it tends to work quite well. About 20 min at a time, then rise well with hot water. Tooth brush can be useful for scrubbing also.

The harder part is the horizontal passage from bowl feed to idle jet. Vinegar must be forced into this passage to displace any water from rinsing. Compressed air is most helpful.

In any case when cleaning this passage, place a golf T or the like in the idle air intake hole (the small one, not the centered one) at the rear of carb throat. Place fingers over both the tiny floor holes in throat towards front. Now blow compressed air, or carb cleaner into idle mixture screw. It should come out the idle fuel intake hole under carb. This hole lines up with the fuel passage going to bottom of bowl. Then blow opposite, from bottom up to the mixture screw hole. This really helps in clearing the idle fuel passage as there is no direct access without removing the welch plug at rear of carb. I don't like removing that plug.

I've been quite successful with the vinegar if you can force it into the hole while carb is submerged. I take a common soda straw & stick it in the container holding vinegar & carb with carb upside down. The straw will get vinegar in it. Then line up straw with passage & with mouth, gently blow vinegar into passage, but don't blow air. Stop before that.

Using a plastic float with USA fuel can be risky. Any ethanol in the fuel will soften the plastic allowing the tangs to warp & not properly shut off fuel. Amal stayup float kit with viton tipped aluminum needle should be used. Do NOT use brass viton tip needle. Must be aluminum, so shop carefully.

Kits with gasket, float, needle included are sold ebay ect. Or buy float kits & needles separately. Whichever is best cost.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 07:16 AM
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The horizontal tiny jet is a bad design prone to clogging with deposits..On the Amals with the non replaceable pilot jets.....I drill out the jet with something like a .025 drill, blow out the shavings and then screw in the proper sized pilot jet into the existing threaded hole in the top of the float chamber on the main body so it's like the early Concentric carbs.. The jets cost about $5 each and the best part is now you have a tunable low speed circuit and will never have to use a pokey tool to clean the jet....

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 08:20 AM
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Hi,

Quote:
Originally Posted by TR7RVMan View Post
Kits with gasket, float, needle included are sold ebay ect.
Mmmm ... be aware Ebay is where the forgers sell, and some are even stamping "Amal" on jets and printing a similar-looking logo on packaging. I always buy either direct from Burlen or at least from a reputable bricks-'n'-mortar dealer; you don't want to be chasing a problem and thinking you've eliminated a possible cause when you're fitting hookey parts ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Truckedup View Post
The horizontal tiny jet is a bad design prone to clogging with deposits..On the Amals with the non replaceable pilot jets.....I drill out the jet with something like a .025 drill, blow out the shavings and then screw in the proper sized pilot jet into the existing threaded hole in the top of the float chamber on the main body so it's like the early Concentric carbs.. The jets cost about $5 each and the best part is now you have a tunable low speed circuit and will never have to use a pokey tool to clean the jet....
With respect, the "bad design" was evolved when the original Concentric pilot jet location in the underside of the main body was found unsuitable for many 4-strokes. It then worked for years and years without any problem.

Afaict, it more became a problem - like many 'problems' with these old heaps - when they spent less time as their makers intended and more time as garage furniture, around the same time as the agri-businesses worked out there were huge profits to be made from persuading the politicians they could be seen to be Responding To Public Concern About The Environment (aka the media's version of the tree-huggers version of 'science') by sanctioning the adulteration of vehicle fuel with ever-larger percentages of agri-businesses' products ...

If a non-replaceable pilot jet is being drilled out, fit a replaceable jet, which is even easier to access for inspection and any cleaning or tuning?

Regards,

Stuart
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 08:50 AM
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Stuart, I have done it on Triumphs and noticed no problems.. This is my experience..The MK2 also has the pilot jet located on the upper float bowl...Vertical passages are subject to deposits from E10 fuels when they evaporate when the bike is unused for a time, obviously the small jet opening is first to suffer....The vertical jet is less likely to do this ...

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Last edited by Truckedup; 04-30-2019 at 08:53 AM.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 09:42 AM
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My experience with BSA A65 is different, I bought the bike with sleeved early Concentrics with removable jets and it never worked right off idle.
Bought later MK1 with pressed in jets from some Norton owner and it transformed a bike.
I sold a bike 2 years ago, but still hold on to those carbs installed on a small port head as ultimate tuning part for A65 .
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