In my Trident I have the same relay but with 5 connectors
Uh-uh. I posted "four separate
terminals", which is what you've listed; C1 is just a double terminal, which is why it's convenient to connect the two separate horn supply wires to it.
C 1 is double going to horns,
C 2 is hot double white wire,
W 1 is purple wire from a horn button
W 2 is double red wire ( battery + )
I understand from Stuart post it should be another hot white wire or not ?
I didn't have my horns installed yet, so doesn't know is this set up works or not.
'71-on (e.g. your Trident) horn/relay wiring is different from pre-'71 (e.g. Wol's '70 T120R) horn wiring:-
. Fundamentally, pre-'71, the horn/s could be sounded irrespective of whether the ignition was on or off; '71-on, it/they could only be sounded with the ignition on.
. C2-C1 is the horns supply; '71-'74 C2 has a White wire (only "hot" when the ignition switch is on), pre-'71 C2 has a Brown/Blue wire (unswitched "hot" directly from battery -ve).
. The three-separate-terminal 6RA relay used only in '69 and '70 is odd in that C2 is also the supply for W1 (Brown/Black wire to the horn button). Pressing the button completes the relay switching circuit
simply by connecting the button to the handlebar (through the mounting screws
), then it's a Lucas 'magic earth' through sundry bits of bike to an attached Red wire somewhere.
. The four-separate-terminal 6RA relay is more conventional in that the switched (C1-C2) is completely-separate from the switching (W1-W2); '71-on, the handlebar horn button is supplied by a White wire, the wire from the horn button to relay W1 is (should be) Lucas/British Standard Purple/Black, the Red wire on relay W2 is simply the switching circuit return to battery +ve.
Wol and anyone else battling with the Mickey-Mouse pre-'71 horn button: the 'magic earth' can be improved by attaching a Red wire inside the horn button body, threading it beside the other horn/dipswitch wires and connecting it to existing harness Red wires.