Fender Drill Pattern Templates - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
Minitwins
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Fender Drill Pattern Templates

Wondering if there are any hole pattern templates out there for vintage Tri fenders. Or even a site with decent reference photos that others have used. I have a repro rear fender with a few too many holes. Bike had the wrong tail light housing and i suspect incorrect wire routing holes. Just not sure what was stock to my 68 tr6c.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 01:45 PM
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well I don't know of templates but I'm in your general area. If interested send me a pm maybe you can take some measurements off my fenders (1970). Also there is a Swap Meet in Woodstock on the 28th.


If you are far North there is always Morrie's Place


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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 02:12 PM
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Hi,

Quote:
Originally Posted by AleVoc View Post
68 tr6c.
have a repro rear fender with a few too many holes.
Wondering if there are any hole pattern templates out there for vintage Tri fenders.
Afaik, no.

However, it should be relatively easy to ascertain 'correct' holes:-

. Start with the one at the front? Chances are dpo didn't put extra holes here and the hole's for a 5/16" OD bolt so larger than many of the others.

. Then two similar-size holes for 5/16" OD bolts should be one just in front of and the other just behind the middle of the rear frame loop; the bolts pass through the holes in the "Clip" that hooks over the frame tube and the flat "Backing plate" that's fitted on the inside of the fender.

. There should be a third similar-sized hole just to the right (looking towards the front of the bike) of the aforementioned bolt-hole just behind the frame tube. This hole isn't shown in the parts book picture but has a grommet as it's where the rear lamp wires come from the underside of the fender; why this hole wasn't inside the frame loop under the seat is one of life's great mysteries ...

. With the fender located on its front mounting and its rear frame mounting, you should see the two holes that line up with what Triumph called the "Fender bridge", between the top shock. mountings. The parts book alleges the "bridge"-to-fender bolts are 1/4" OD but ime you might well find they're actually 5/16" OD. Risking telling you something you know already, the "bridge" isn't symmetrical either side of its highest point - it's longer to the drive-side shock. mount than it is to the timing-side.

. The two rear "Lifting handle" tabs bolt to the fender with 1/4" OD bolts. Here risking stating the obvious, the "Lifting handle" shock. mounting bolts holes are slotted, so the "handle" can be moved backwards and forwards a little to align the rear tab holes with corresponding holes in the fender.

. With the "Lifting handle" in place, the standard rear lamp ally casting front 1/4" OD stud fits through a corresponding hole just below the middle of the "handle"; the casting should have a cutaway in the top of the front edge so it can tuck under the "handle" and over the heads of the bolts through the "handle" and the fender. According to http://stainlessbits.com/link12.html, those bolts were roundhead, but my T150 has the same casting and normal hex.-head bolts.

. Directly below/behind the hole for the stud is another (~5/16" ID?) hole, that's normally covered by the rear lamp ally casting; this is another hole that should have a grommet as the rear lamp wires pass through it to the underside of the fender.

. Nearing the rear/bottom of the fender, you might find two or four holes for 1/4" OD bolts:-

.. two of the holes should line up with the holes in the lower edge of the "Tail lamp plate";

.. these two holes would also line up with holes in the "Number plate bracket" shown in the parts book (although note the bracket is drawn upside-down ... ).

Problem with just the one bracket mounting the "Number plate"/licence plate by just the plate's top edge is these old parallel twins were apt to vibrate a bit, the plate vibrated and some eventually cracked just below the bracket. So, later, Triumph added another "Number plate bracket" - 83-4784.

Original fenders have two vertically-slotted 1/4"-wide holes to mount the lower "Number plate bracket" where it'd bolt to the bottom edge of a US licence plate (your repro fender might have just ~1/4" ID holes?). If you don't have both brackets, but fancy adding the second one, first look at on-line images of both to determine which one you have - the trade is completely confused about which part number applies to which bracket - Googling first "triumph 82-6850" and then "triumph 83-4784" return images of both brackets under both part numbers.

Finally, not shown for '68 but fitted and shown in the parts books '69-'73 is F7826 "Wiring protector". It attaches to the rear lamp ally casting stud and one of the fender mounting bolts behind/in front of the rear frame loop; protects the rear lamp wiring under the fender.

Hth.

Regards,

Stuart
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 02:59 PM
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Since your guard is no doubt a re pop, before you start drilling anything wrap it in masking tape and push it into the space it is supposed to fit with all the mounts in place on the frame. There should be a depression either side to line up with the shock bolts, with these lined up the front edge should sit against it's mount and high enough above the swing arm to allow movement. I had to remove 3/4 inch from mine to get this bit right. Push the guard up into the fender brace to check the radius fits. You may find you have to add spacers under the rear frame loop, this is preferable to fitting under tension and having your new guard crack.

Now you know it is the right length, remove it. Measure up and draw a centre line over the guard, and find the centre of the rear frame loop and mark it. Make sure you have your oil tank and chain guard fitted and suitably protected.

Now you can offer up the guard and clamp it to the brace lining up the shock bolt depressions, leave the brace loose enough to allow a little swing and push the guard against the front mount. With your centre line visible through the mounts hole and lined up with you frame loop mark clamp the guard at the front and check for clearance.

More later if required, need to go to work.

Rod
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 03:26 PM
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Hi again,

If following Rod's advice to start with lining up the depressions in the sides with the shock. mounting bolts, a tip I read years ago on BritBike was to secure the fender to the rear frame tube with a bungee pulled very tight and wrapped around several times - you'll still be able to swivel/slide the fender around on the frame tube but the bungee'll hold the weight of it.

Hth.

Regards,

Stuart
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuartMac View Post
Then two similar-size holes for 5/16" OD bolts should be one just in front of and the other just behind the middle of the rear frame loop; the bolts pass through the holes in the "Clip" that hooks over the frame tube and the flat "Backing plate" that's fitted on the inside of the fender.

. There should be a third similar-sized hole just to the right (looking towards the front of the bike) of the aforementioned bolt-hole just behind the frame tube. This hole isn't shown in the parts book picture but has a grommet as it's where the rear lamp wires come from the underside of the fender; why this hole wasn't inside the frame loop under the seat is one of life's great mysteries ...

. With the fender located on its front mounting and its rear frame mounting, you should see the two holes that line up with what Triumph called the "Fender bridge", between the top shock. mountings. The parts book alleges the "bridge"-to-fender bolts are 1/4" OD but ime you might well find they're actually 5/16" OD. Risking telling you something you know already, the "bridge" isn't symmetrical either side of its highest point - it's longer to the drive-side shock. mount than it is to the timing-side.

. The two rear "Lifting handle" tabs bolt to the fender with 1/4" OD bolts. Here risking stating the obvious, the "Lifting handle" shock. mounting bolts holes are slotted, so the "handle" can be moved backwards and forwards a little to align the rear tab holes with corresponding holes in the fender.

. With the "Lifting handle" in place, the standard rear lamp ally casting front 1/4" OD stud fits through a corresponding hole just below the middle of the "handle"; the casting should have a cutaway in the top of the front edge so it can tuck under the "handle" and over the heads of the bolts through the "handle" and the fender. According to http://stainlessbits.com/link12.html, those bolts were roundhead, but my T150 has the same casting and normal hex.-head bolts.

. Directly below/behind the hole for the stud is another (~5/16" ID?) hole, that's normally covered by the rear lamp ally casting; this is another hole that should have a grommet as the rear lamp wires pass through it to the underside of the fender.

. Nearing the rear/bottom of the fender, you might find two or four holes for 1/4" OD bolts:-

.. two of the holes should line up with the holes in the lower edge of the "Tail lamp plate";
Wow! This is the exact info I was looking for. I have a 500 fender which I thought would line up as a perfect replacement for the excessively drilled 650 rear fender. Does not. Just a bit short in length and hole location. With this posted info I know what to look for. BTW, the 500 fender had the underside wire protector so I lucked out on that. Assuming the 500 protector fits the 650 fender.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Red, excellent tip. This is a re-pop fender but previous owner drilled to his hearts content. Will need to install a couple of grommet/plugs and probably drill a few of my own holes until I can find a reasonably priced re-pop of my own.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 11:41 AM
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Hi,

Quote:
Originally Posted by AleVoc View Post
have a 500 fender which I thought would line up as a perfect replacement for the excessively drilled 650 rear fender. Does not. Just a bit short in length and hole location.
Curious, they should be (basically) the same - when Triumph changed the 350/500 frame '67-on, one change was it'd use the same rear frame and bits as the 650's; similarly, triple frames are basically the same as dry-frame 650's.

Risking telling you something you know already, you know original rear fenders aren't perfect semi-circles? They have a slight bend about under the rear frame loop; is it possible your 500 fender has been bent more, would fit with some judiciously-applied ... persuasion?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AleVoc View Post
500 fender had the underside wire protector so I lucked out on that. Assuming the 500 protector fits the 650 fender.
Same part; as I say, fenders should be basically the same.

Hth.

Regards,

Stuart
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Forum has me thinking. Thanks for that. I refitted the 500 fender and it's still short however ONLY at the grabrail fender mounting holes. It's about 3/16 short. A decent amount of persuasion did not shorten the distance. Wonder if I have the wrong grabrail.
Brief search shows 2 items: 82-5424 for pre 67 and 82-7860 for post 67. I'm working on 68 so I wonder if I have earlier model component.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 04:39 PM
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The earlier grab rail is wider on the drive side to accept the earlier J type hinges. The later version is the same both sides.

Rod
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