I'm pretty sure there is no amplifier unit. I'll check for a 5PU
No Rita amp., no 5PU, the two go together. If there isn't any 'electronics box' at all - most replacement e.i. have Red, White, Black, Black/White and Black/Yellow wires - chances are the bike has a Tri-Spark 'Classic Twin' e.i., the electronics for that are all in the aforementioned circular compartment in the engine timing cover.
Be aware that the company - Wassell - currently licensed to use the "Lucas" branding and packaging never had anything to do with the 'original Lucas' that made your bike's original electrics. Wassell have a long-time poor reputation for quality control.
If you must buy an off-the shelf loom, I recommend buying specifically from TMS
, their looms are made down the road by Autosparks
. TMS also sell several other alternative electrical parts to those wholesaled by 'Wassell Lucas', look for "MADE IN UK' in their descriptions and often "/UK" in the "Code" column.
Btw, no connection except as a
TMS customer and a very
Another alternative is to
The disadvantage with any off-the-shelf loom is it'll incorporate all the aforementioned "ill-considered changes".
One of the big disadvantages is, even if you're happy with the standard single-fuse-for-everything, its standard position in the Brown/Blue wire attached to battery +ve (on your bike) can't protect against a particular common type of short-circuit.
I've used both Autosparks and Vehicle Wiring Products
for components and tools for decades without any problems at all.
If I'm rewiring a bike I haven't done before, and the old loom's still connected, I start by using a sharp scalpel-type knife to cut away any wrapping; once the loom's visible in Glorious Technicolor, it's much easier to make sense of the any wiring diagram's black lines.
Then I just replace one wire at a time, upgrading, shortening/lengthening, removing/adding connections, etc. as required. E.g. as standard, the aforementioned Brown/Blue wire and corresponding Black wire to battery -ve are too low-rated for the Amps even the standard alternator can generate, never mind if you decide to upgrade to a higher-output one.
By-and-large, I never cover any loom I build, makes testing and upgrading (and repairs ...
) far more difficult than necessary. I simply strap new wires to frame tubes with releasable reusable cable ties; once the loom's finished and tested, any wires still exposed after replacing tank, seat, sidepanels, I cover with lengths of 'split' flexible conduit (available from both Autosparks and VWP - the split is lengthways along the conduit, so it can simply be slipped over/off already-connected wires.