T140E Wiring woes - Page 2 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 03:58 PM
wol
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looks like a parallel port head and the carbs have adaptors to fit the rubber head connections
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVE M View Post
Someone's already been in there and done some wiring.
You have concentrics so presumably have a splayed head already
Hi Dave, the head in the photo is the original parallel inlet T140E type but with Mark 1 concentrics fitted. I have a splayed head T140V type head ready to go on.
Yes, someoneís already done some wiring for sure!

Scratching my head about wiring...
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 12:42 PM
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Hi,

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Originally Posted by Sparky Boy View Post
I do have an amplifier after all
Boyer Bransden Micro Mk3
Just so you know, Bransden call the 'box' a "Transistor Box" and the two parts of the 'trigger unit' "Stator" and "Rotor".

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky Boy View Post
someone’s already done some wiring for sure!
Your other images show - apart from one or more past or present severe oil leak(s) - a PO's stripped the original loom and then done a not-unreasonable job of organising the loose wires by grouping them with short lengths of the red insulating tape. Just a shame about the colour-matched squash-on "bodger's terminals" ...

Imho, degrease the bike, cut off the bits of red insulating tape, it looks quite an easy rewire.

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Originally Posted by Rusty1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by StuartMac View Post
If I'm rewiring a bike I haven't done before, and the old loom's still connected, I start by using a sharp scalpel-type knife to cut away any wrapping; once the loom's visible in Glorious Technicolor, it's much easier to make sense of the any wiring diagram's black lines
What do you do with the handlebar switch wiring
If they work, usually nothing; at most, I might change the terminals on the ends of the wires.

As part of my first rewire - of one of my T160's - I had planned to fit (a) more powerful headlamp(s), but I'd also planned it/they would be switched by relays. In that case, undamaged original wiring and switches are more than adequate to to conduct the relay switching Volts/milliAmps. If you aren't planning more than a single 60/55 headlamp bulb, it's debateable whether headlamp switching relays are necessary, but I always incorporate them anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky Boy View Post
have a splayed head T140V type head ready to go on.
You are aware:-

. It might not be a simple head substitution? Tappets, tappet guide blocks, pushrod tubes and seals are all different between T140V and '81 T140E.

. Spark plugs need to change from T140E Champion N5 or equivalent (NGK B6E-something?) to T140V Champion N3 or equivalent (NGK B8E-something)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky Boy View Post
head in the photo is the original parallel inlet T140E type but with Mark 1 concentrics fitted.
Just a thought but I wonder if that's one of the brackets one of the US importers used to offer as an accessory? The parallel-inlet-port T140E head is based on the basic single-carb-head casting, for which at least one of the 1960's US importers made a bracket to bolt twin carbs. to the the twin ports.

Unless you've an overwhelming desire to fit the T140V head, and/or having two Mk.1's that close together is a pita, the existing set-up's something unusual ... If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It?

Hth.

Regards,

Stuart
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 01:24 PM
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It doesn't look like an Amal MK II.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Believe it or not, the engine is oil tight; bone dry. The oil covering the wiring, frame, mudguard and everything else in the vicinity has come from the primary chaincase breather pipe, which has been cut down to just a few inches long and left to vent just in front of the rear mudguard, not even as an impromptu drive chain 'Scottoiler'! As mentioned there is no airbox, which I believe the breather pipe went to originally on an '81 rather than the end of the rear mudguard)...

Really appreciate all your comments everyone, thank you all

Scratching my head about wiring...
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 03:28 PM
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You could fit a longer pipe or a k&n type filter on the breather
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 07:30 PM
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Hi Mark,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky Boy View Post
The oil covering the wiring, frame, mudguard and everything else in the vicinity has come from the primary chaincase breather pipe,
Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVE M View Post
You could fit a longer pipe
I'd advise the '74-'78 vent arrangement; the parts are readily-available, including the T-piece to include the frame vent and the clips to hold the special D-section silver-coloured pipe around the rear mudguard; the most difficult bit is likely to be drilling the 5 mm. holes accurately in the 'guard for the pipe clips' screws, as one end of each clip hooks over the rolled inside edge of the 'guard.

Or the pipe could be zip-tied to the underside of the grabrail then routed between the 'guard and the numberplate?

Fwiw, I'd advise against the K&N filter on the stub, it won't solve the problem, which is condensing oil vapour vented from the crankcase through the primary. Triples with individual K&N filters use a similar arrangement, my T160's have individual K&N filters, 120-degree triples don't vent anything like the amount vented by a parallel twin but even the small amount covers an area around the filter and catches crap.

Hth.

Regards,

Stuart
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 08:01 PM
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I use a small filter on my late model 750 twin and it works fine. No oil, no mess. I used a cut down section of the original rubber tube and used a spring inside the tube to aid with the tight curve, suction collapse issues [unlikely], as well as condensing any vapour. The spring fits neat inside the rubber tube, but is larger than the breather hole, so can't fall into the primary.

The filter I used is like this one:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CHROME-E...kAAOSwoylcHc~0

tridentt150v,
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(Where women blow and men chunder).
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 12:20 PM
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Hi Sparky boy,

I have a workshop manual for the Bonneville 750. It would probably help you out. Would you like me to email it to you?
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Cactus,

Thatís really kind of you thanks, but I already have one. Appreciate the offer though

Scratching my head about wiring...
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