Stator studs/Rotor and stator position 70 TR6P - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
Grand Prix 500
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Stator studs/Rotor and stator position 70 TR6P

1970 TR6P My Stator is 6mm out from centre of rotor. For best voltage they need to be centre. The distance piece ( 6mm), the stator studs, the rotor and the stator appear to be correct for the motor. I can only assume the crank is off a different model.
Does anyone know if its possible that there are stator studs that have a measurement 6mm shorter than the sketch attached, which would be 34.9mm instead of 40.9mm?
I could fit another distance (6mm) piece which would position the rotor correctly with the studs/ Stator position I have, but this is not a the best option as im moving the rotor further out on the crank..
Also is the duplex motor sprocket fitted correctly? Is it around the correct way? Its been on this way since I've owned the bike.
Thanks
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Last edited by TezzaTR6P; 03-13-2019 at 10:44 PM.
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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 11:21 PM
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This is so common that it is almost normal.
It is definitely not the crank, they have been the same in this regard since the 50's.
Check and if necessary adjust the primary sprocket alignment first.
Then add a spacer to centralise the rotor within the stator. As long as the nut and stud have plenty of engagement, there won't be a problem.
The best info available is that a 1/4" misalignment reduces alternator output by 9%.
If you try to move the stator towards the engine, first measure the clearance to the chain, I'm doubtful there's much scope there.
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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 01:42 AM
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I spaced mine out on my 750. I used a stepped spacer that also grips the rotor alloy and helps stop the weld separation that can sometimes occur. But you need to make precise measurements to do this, it takes some care to get it right.

Don't use shorter studs for the stator.

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Last edited by tridentt150v; 03-14-2019 at 01:46 AM.
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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 03:41 AM Thread Starter
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There is room to move the stator towards motor 6mm if i had the studs to do this. I guess I could have them made.
I was concerned moving rotor out 6mm meant the nut was not on the full depth.The idea of machining the distance piece to 12mm with a shoulder sounds ok also.
You have as usual given me food for thought.
Thanks
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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 05:42 AM
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Hi Terry,

If you haven't owned the bike since new, likely it isn't the original rotor; there have been at least two 74 mm. OD rotor widths. If you have owned the bike from new, two rotor widths were fitted in 1970 - one to triples, the other to twins and singles, your bike has always had the wrong one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TezzaTR6P View Post
I was concerned moving rotor out 6mm meant the nut was not on the full depth.
Use one of the nuts that goes with the wider rotor? @johntioc - past Triumph dealer, currently owner of US parts wholesaler Coventry Spares - has posted previously that the most-secure rotor nut-'n'-washer are the latest parts fitted by the Co-op.

Btw, there never were "welded" rotors (magnets can't be welded, at least not if you wan't 'em to stay magnets). The rotors consist of a large hex, a wedge-shaped magnet sits on each side of the hex. and they're all held together by the material moulded around the hex. and magnets. What "tridentt150v" is alluding to is the cast material keeping hex. and magnets together comes loose from the hex., they move relative to one another during acceleration and deceleration, the otherwise-unattached (wedge-shaped) magnets are forced outwards, they don't have to extend very far beyond the rotor surface before the contact the stator ...

Btw, before worrying too much about the rotor/stator relationship, you might want to check that nothing's loose on the rotor - if it is, the rotor must be replaced, the new one can be a wide one and the axial relationship problem is also fixed (expensively). Ideally, you need to be able to grab the rotor firmly in both hands and attempt to turn the engine with it, any movement in the rotor itself should show up/be felt.

Hth.

Regards,

Stuart
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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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The rotor and stator are both new and are the same size as the ones that have been on it since I’ve owned it.
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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 03:32 PM
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Hi Tezza
Do you have charging problems?

Quick fixes are named after how long they stay fixed, not how long it takes to make them.
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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, crap voltage from new rotor and stator measured direct from stator, I checked it after i fitted them. A mate who's a bit of a guru on electrical told me the two should sit evenly with each other. my rotor needs to move out the thickness of the distance piece 6mm to sit evenly within stator. Or looking at it another way the stator needs to move in 6mm.
Can anyone tell me if the sprocket in the photo is fitted around the correct way? That's the only other thing that could cause a distance problem. Is it possible to have the sprocket around the wrong way? Or can it only fit on as it is? I've been told my studs are the correct size and as the rotor and stator is supposed to be correct and if the cranks are all the same I can't believe that they were built that way.
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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 07:44 PM
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While the mis-alignment will lose a bit of power, it won't produce your "crap" voltage readings.
Something else is going on here.
Much more detail about your electrical system will be needed to offer help, as well as the way in which you are testing the alternator's output.
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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuartMac View Post
Btw, there never were "welded" rotors (magnets can't be welded, at least not if you wan't 'em to stay magnets). The rotors consist of a large hex, a wedge-shaped magnet sits on each side of the hex. and they're all held together by the material moulded around the hex. and magnets. What "tridentt150v" is alluding to is the cast material keeping hex. and magnets together comes loose from the hex., they move relative to one another during acceleration and deceleration, the otherwise-unattached (wedge-shaped) magnets are forced outwards, they don't have to extend very far beyond the rotor surface before the contact the stator ...

Yeah, moulded, cast or bonded might be a better term....but everyone you talk to uses the term 'welded'. Its a misnomer.

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