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Tiger 750

2K views 19 replies 12 participants last post by  Trumpkin 
#1 ·
I'm off to the big smoke on the weekend to check out a 74 Tr7rv.

I was expecting to be getting a 65Tbird but that didn't work out.

So I decided to opt for something a bit more modern. [I like indicators in my old age.]

Is there anything I should particularly look out for on this model? Any probs with the 5 speed box?

Do these single disc front brakes work better than the Commando ones? Or for that matter how do they compare with twin leading shoe Trumpy brakes?

It has a single carb, electronic ignition and looks very tidy to me. Apparently it doesn't leak oil. Does this mean it isn't really a Trumpy? I like that it doesn't appear to need anything to be done before riding. I initially planned to fly and ride but it's a really long way on an unknown steed so I'm taking a trailer cause I'm getting old and boring and not ready to blue the pipes on a long hot ride.

Any critique or advice is welcome.
Pics after purchase.
Cheers.
 
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#2 ·
I owned a '73 TR7RV in the '90s. It was my first British bike and I enjoyed it immensely. I never had issue with the 5-speed gearbox or oil leaks (other than the pushrod tubes, which can be corrected). One problem I did encounter were cracks on the lower fork leg caps. This can be REALLY dangerous. I suppose the previous owner over-torqued 'em but it's pretty easy to do. The brakes were fine (better than the Commando disc but maybe not as good as my TLS with the performance kit).

The single carb was great for simplicity and I didn't notice any struggling at the top end (although I didn't have a Bonnie at the time to compare).

A side note, to rib the Triumph twin, it sent vibes to the rider much more than a Commando!
 
#3 ·
The 750 short rod, 5 spd. motors are excellent and love to rev. I use a 1973 motor/trans in my version of a 1938 Speed Twin (Custom). My motor is a single carb although I have always run dual Mark II carbs. I built that motor in the late 1970s and I ran it hard for at least 25 years, power shifting at 7000 rpm a bazillion times. It has never been apart, still starts and runs flawlessly and does not ever leak anything.
 
#4 ·
GC, are you talking about the axle caps on the bottom of the legs cracking ? Yes , that scares me and they do make better than stock replacements. I was lucky to buy a used set of forks with steel caps, but I’ve never found a source for them. Note that they are not interchangeable, there is a left and right cap. TR7’s are good bikes though, in my mind a better motorcycle than the 650 models. The front disc brake is pretty good, the trans is reliable. I like them.
 
#5 ·
Yes you can get "billet" caps rather than the cast originals
The problem is made worse by the fact that the torque setting in the manual is incorrect and was never changed from steel to aluminium
I can't remember the correct value off the top of my head but 11-14 or so rings a bell

The disc brakes are fine, although they can be callled "wooden" but afaik are similar to all 70's brakes. Some genius decided that a chrome finish was a good idea on the front disc but once this wears, you get a pulsing action. Skim the chrome off

The brake switches are shonky, imho swap them for hydraulic and also fit braided lines, which you can get in black if you want an original look
 
#6 ·
Hi Trumpkin, You have experience. If you can road test it, you'll know what to do.

These are excellent machines. No real problem areas. My front & rear brakes can skid tires at any speed. I bought my '73 Tiger new. I love it. But I think it's like the Norton brake. My Norton friends don't complain about the disc, so I don't know what to say.

Don't worry about the axle caps. Just see if cracked. The original cast ones were very weak & break. Billet ones are easy to come by & never break. After you get bike remove caps. If old cast type the metal looks porous where machined for axle, even though outside is polished.

Regarding power, I ride with 650 & 750 Bonnies all the time. Until 100+ Mph you won't tell the difference. Going over the mountain passes 8000 feet the Tiger still has equal power. The single carb makes valve adjustment very easy. If carb is worn, you only need to buy one. There is no down side to a Tiger. Unless you just want a Bonnie. Then get a Bonnie.
Don
 
#7 ·
Hi,

74 Tr7rv.
single disc front brakes work better than the Commando ones?
Most definitely should do. The caliper's twin-opposed-piston so, if the bike doesn't feel like it's stopping as fast as it should, obviously one check is both pistons move.

Another thing that can stop the disc working at its best is old standard pads. There are various aftermarket 'favourites' (EBC HH, etc.) but the most-effective and cheapest I know are Mini-Cooper "Green Stuff", if they're available there. Also, you get two pairs for your money. :thumb

doesn't appear to need anything to be done before riding.
If it still has rubber hoses between master cylinder-top yoke and bottom yoke-slider bracket and they're either over ten years old or the seller doesn't know, replace 'em (ten years is the Lockheed maximum age). New rubber hoses are available, but not made by Lockheed. :( If they need replacing, consider braided; I know you have ADR making it more complicated but it has been done without too much extra agg. and they won't need replacing again. :thumb

If you're replacing hoses, you'll be stripping master cylinder and caliper and replacing seals. If so, consider refilling with DOT5 fluid - another subsequent repeating maintenance task saved thereafter.

Be aware the original front brake switch mounts in the master cylinder mounting but is wired into the handlebar switch cluster. The 'third hand' factory dismantling/assembly tool sold out years ago ...

If the standard switch is broken/doesn't work, the bike has US-market handlebars and a banjo bolt securing the hose to the master cylinder, replacements with a built-in pressure switch are available. Otoh, if the bike has 'UK&GE' 'bars and hose straight into the master cylinder, plumbing in a pressure switch can still be done, if with a bit more work.

compare with twin leading shoe Trumpy brakes?
Depends how you ride the bike, but the faster you go, the greater the difference between the disc and any drum.

cracks on the lower fork leg caps.
Regrettably due to a combination of Meriden Misprint and owners unable to question even a really blindingly-obvious Meriden Misprint ...

The Meriden Misprint was some numpty copied the pre-'71 steel slider cap torque figure (25 lb.ft.) into the '71-on manuals for ally-slider forks models (triple and 650 twin); this continued not :Not again being corrected 'til the '79 manual, when it was finally, to 15 lb.ft. :party

But 'fraid I've always struggled to understand how anyone can look at the massive gap between the ally cap and slider, and think, "Yeah, I must heave the torque wrench considerably more than on the bigger cylinder head bolts that don't have that massive gap under 'em ..." :Darn

The original cast ones were very weak & break.
I've always just nipped up the axle cap nuts with an ordinary ring spanner. The T160 I bought brand-new in 1977 still has its original axle caps. I replaced the axle caps on the second T160 I bought in 1982 because one broke shortly after I got the bike, the replacements are still there. My T100 came to me with disc-brake forks in 1987, those axle caps are still there.

Hth.

Regards,
 
#9 ·
Unless the seller is ripping you off badly, you won;t regret buying a 750 Tiger. Lovely bikes in all the ways everyone above has said. No worries about the front brake - they will make the tyre squeal if they're functioning properly (and they almost always are, despite the neglect that seems typical).

Just itch the standard silencers in favour of none at all, or very unrestrictive ones if you must have them, if you want to realise the performance potential.
 
#12 ·
Successful though very arduous trip. Friday 6am till 5pm and Saturday 10am till 8pm on the road pulling the trailer. Glad I didn't fly and ride though as it bucketted down from Sydney to Newcastle on the way home and would have been a total nightmare riding. Here's the baby decorating my verandah.

The guy selling her is a proper motorcycle mechanic running a fair sized motorcycle repair shop and he basically sorted almost everything before selling it.
Braided stainless front brake lines, boyer ignition, new yuasa battery, new crankshaft seal on the timing side, new heat protection gasket on the carb, new oil and fuel lines, new lefthand switch gear, new alloy rear guard and tail light assembly to replace a very rusty one, new Bridgestone tyres, nicely tuned and adjusted, no oil leaks, straight footpegs, first kick start and pulls like a train. You couldn't buy a bike from a better guy, a young 40ish Pommy guy with bright blue eyes who knows these bikes like the back of his hand and has a really genuine good attitude. I am feeling blessed.
Just need to find a sidestand, a left mirror and get her registered on club plates and go for a ride!
 
#13 ·
Strange about the fork end clamps. Never had one snap so i guess some riders are pulling the nuts up a bit too hard. Also need to do them up in equal amounts just a bit like you might with cylinder head fixings. Alloy is always a bit soft on old Triumphs and with care, nothing will snap in normal use and tightening up.
 
#14 ·
Not for the purist, but I also ditch the standard nuts and lock washers in favour of S/S small flat washers and shallower S/S nyloc nuts. This way you only have to do them up firm, not gorilla tight.

Looks like a good thing Trumpkin, very photogenic :)
 
#15 ·
Hi Trumpkin, Congratulations!!!

What a nice machine. From the photos looks to be well assembled.

Wow, was a long journey to get her home, but I expect it will be prove well worth it. Indeed it is very hard to fine a nice clean machine, at least in USA.

You said it ran well & pulls strong. You learned Tigers do that. They tend to start quite well also as you found.

Out of curiosity, did you get to road test it before purchase?

I'm not familiar with AU regulations. What is a club plate? I notice it doesn't have a plate on it now, so was it currently registered for road use?

Again congratulations on your new bike.
Don
 
#17 ·
Looks really nice
Side stands are easy over here
I bought a new chromed one a few years ago to bling up my bike and the angle was different.
Presumably that means that the painted ones were as well?

I filed a bit off the stand to get the angle back as it felt to me that the stand as supplied might fold to easily accidentally
 
#18 ·
I am feeling blessed.
I think you are blessed, that looks delightful.

Your guitars look beautiful as well, I love the burr walnut with the white binding.
(Do you still have the 34 Martin?)

I’m really pleased this has worked out well for you.

Peg.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Hey thanks Peg. Yes I love that Walnut, it's Brazilian Walnut and is very old and unobtanium. I still have about 3 sets left but that'll be all I ever have.
I didn't own any of those restorations. The 1834 Martin was sold soon after I finished restoring it, the owner made quite a bit after buying it for $4K, spending $2K on my work he got $19K which sounds a lot except at Mandolin Brothers in New York a similar one went for $65K US the year before.
Yes very excited about the bike. My wife actually wants to go on the back now , which she didn't with the Duke, after loosing her nerve from a nasty event we had when flood waters rolled us over in our Hilux ute in a creek a few years ago. We were extremely lucky to survive and it took it's toll psychologically for her with anything slightly dangerous. We started riding originally on a beautiful Norton Atlas that was as unreliable as it was beautiful and then had a reliable but very heavy Moto Guzzi California 3 on which we did 60K or more kilometers together. So this TR7 is likely part of the healing process. They are so small and light and pretty by today's standards.

TRVRVman, we have a historic vehicle registration plan here in NSW , Oz which costs about $50 per year for which you are allowed to ride for 60 days using a log book for each ride. The vehicle has to be over 30 years old and you have to belong to a club so that's another $50 but it's very affordable. This is not transferable however so I have to get a safety certificate and apply for my own plate. Once I have it I can let others ride if I wish. I also have a Peugeot 203 from 1953 on the scheme. It makes owning old vehicles much easier. Other states have slightly different rules but I think they all have the log book system now.
Anyway I was able to take it for a spin but because it was in a very busy part of the city I didn't feel like getting used to so many things with all that traffic round me so I only puttered about. Tomorrow I'll take it down for the safety certificate so I'll get to use all the gears.
Remember I've been on left foot gears for awhile now, but right hand comes back pretty naturally from my early riding years. I had 4 Trumpy's , 2 Nortons, 3 Beezas back in the day.
 
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