Moto Grand Prix
Main Motorcycle: 1973 Triumph TR7RV
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA USA
Other Motorcycle: 1964 Triumph Mountain Cub
Hi tjkoko, So you are in USA.
My bike was in storage 34 yrs. I oiled cly. With motor oil. Marvel is better.
I got free oil from work, pennzoil 10-30. Filled eng to brim via rocker boxes. On our bikes this fills primary too. Let sit over night. Drained out motor & primary.
Changed frame oil & cleaned frame screen & eng screen. Filled frame, kicked motor over several times to blow oil from cly. Installed plugs & started motor. Of course oil is now in exhaust so expect lots of smoke.
I used car oil.. NO GOOD! Made clutch slip after 10 mile road test. Draining all & using the VTwin cured slip in 20 miles!
Next time I'd do the sleeping beast. But use the marvel on Pistons.
Drain primary oil by siphon via filler hole. Fill primary 250cc eng oil. Get baby bottle to measure. Search my post for how to.
On start up oil pressure light should go out right away. But it will take a good 20-40 seconds to have oil spurting back to frame reservoir. That is normal so don't worry. But oil light should go off in a few seconds. Frame oil level will drop lots. Run motor 40 seconds or so then stop & check oil level. Top to 1" below threads for now. After several miles recheck oil.
My bike started & ran decent on 1st kick. But all the other prep work was done. New motobatt battery, removed carb & cleaned which was clogged with varnish & hardened gas deposits. Tank had same deposits plus a little surface rust. Cleaned tank & repl taps & fuel lines. I use points. Bike ran good before storage, so I just cleaned, lubed points.
Verify you have spark at plugs.
Make sure points move freely on the pivot, they can stick there. Often the spring is in a bind & pulling points crooked. The must snap back smartly! If you need to check timing us static method in manual holding full advance with the largewasher. Old vw was points so it will be easy. Use timing light later after running.
Carb can be very hard to clean idle jet. Use a skinny wire through jet. Look at bushman' carb site for cutaway views so you know where to blow air while blocking passages with fingers & golf tees.
Only use genuine Amal parts!! Get a stay up float & matching alum. Needle with viton tip. Flatten surfaces with emery paper.
Use a fat oring & new square stud orings. Use proper air gap to manifold. .040-.060". Yes that much gap. New oring will seem too large, but grease & work it in with small screw driver as you bring carb in with nuts.
Make sure tank taps flow gas well & actually shut off.
If you feel compression at all don't adj valves yet.
Tickle carb until gas shows at tickler hole. Give little or no throttle. Free clutch. Bring to compression & kick hard. As it fires rev engine. It will not idle cold well if at all. Take at test ride & let oil burn from inside exhaust. If all seems well ride 20 min. Then adj rpm & mixture. Ride more a good hour or more. Let cool over night. Then when cold, re torque head, then check valve adj. Warm eng & check timing with light.
I'd change all oils & clean both screens in 100 miles or so. You'll be ok then. If some light rust on cly wall don't worry. Usually no problems with that.
Often oil leaks will arise after some miles. We'll deal with that later.
Don't fart around with zinc. Just get the VTwin & be done with it. The clutch will thank you too. $12 quart.