Need urgent help with damaged/stuck FORK please. - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
Supersport 400
Main Motorcycle: Bonneville SE EFI 2011
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Need urgent help with damaged/stuck FORK please.

Bike is a Bonneville SE 2011 EFI cast wheels.
As part of the 12,000 miles maintenance I decided to change the forks oil (although AFAIK there are NO leaks or other problems).
The right fork went well (following my Haynes manual) and itís already been reinstalled.
The left fork: I drained the oil and removed spring and spacer and washer.
First thing I noticed, on the spacer, a longitudinal 5mm wide dark wear on its entire length.
After draining, I start to pump, to drain further. I could hear something rattling/rolling inside by tilting the fork.
After 3-4 pumps I noticed that the fork tube had the tendency to get stuck when fully inside the fork slider.
After another 2-3 pumps it indeed got stuck at the bottom of the slider and for the life of me I cannot pull it up/out.
So, I tried to slacken the damper rod bolt in the base of the fork but it was incredibly hard.
Eventually I managed to loosen it so it rotates but unfortunately I realized that the entire damper rod turns with it.
So I canít even open the damn thing. I havenít tried to open the seals, clips etc from the top of the slider because the manual says first remove the damper rod.
Any help/opinion would be highly appreciated!! (notice I live in the middle of nowhere with no garages, no Triumph etc.)

TORs, SAI/O2/snorkel removed, TTP Airbox Cover w/DNA filter, TTP Tune#1, Triumph windscreen, G2 Throttle Tamer, NH Low-UK bar, SW-Motech Footpegs, Gammatronix Battery Monitor, Triumph handguards, Oxford heated grips, Denali SoundBomb & GoPro.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 01:14 PM
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I think it's a hydraulic lock, and other Rats have encountered this (I haven't). Do some searching on this forum and you might find out what you have to do.

Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes RC, no snorkel, inlet enlarged, 118/40/NBZT needles/1 shim/3 turns, Ikon 7610s, Ricor Intiminators, Barnett green clutch springs, Michelin Pilot Activs, D9 gauge panel, tachometer.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 01:38 PM
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I have at different times used , an old Land Rover starting handle , an old screw jack handle , to hold damper rods from turning . Maybe a length of reinforcing bar would provide enough bite to stop the damper rod from turning . Good luck .
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 03:26 PM
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SuperSport
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This same problem on my '02 turned out to be a faulty oil lock, the small plastic thingy at the bottom of the stack. It's part #10 here on Hermy's site. Hope you've got a shop closer.
You will have to remove that bottom bolt though, many have found holding it a bit, even with a broom handle, then a sharp shock from a pneumatic wrench usually gets it.

https://www.triumphestore.com/a/Triu...65055-0-2.html
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'02 Bonneville - AI removed, 152MJ's, 42's 1.5 turns out, Air Box Gone/Uni Filters, TPS removed/capped, NH Togas, Nology Coil, Hotwire plug wires, TTP SafeStart, TTP Firestarter, D9 Bracket, Pingel petcock, 19 tooth sprocket, Michelin Pilot Actives.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
Supersport 400
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Thank you for that link, at least I have the parts numbers. $800 for one fork is crazy. I am worried I am facing some major expenses because, even if I manage to undo the bottom bolt and remove the dampen rod, there is still the question why the fork tube got stuck inside the slider, what is that rattling, and why the top spacer is worn longitudinally.

TORs, SAI/O2/snorkel removed, TTP Airbox Cover w/DNA filter, TTP Tune#1, Triumph windscreen, G2 Throttle Tamer, NH Low-UK bar, SW-Motech Footpegs, Gammatronix Battery Monitor, Triumph handguards, Oxford heated grips, Denali SoundBomb & GoPro.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 04:21 PM
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Pneumatic wrench will spin out the bolt. You will need a long Allen socket.

Same wrench will put it back together. BUT carefull not to torque it!
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lpar View Post
Thank you for that link, at least I have the parts numbers. $800 for one fork is crazy. I am worried I am facing some major expenses because, even if I manage to undo the bottom bolt and remove the dampen rod, there is still the question why the fork tube got stuck inside the slider, what is that rattling, and why the top spacer is worn longitudinally.
It's likely stuck because to plastic 'oil lock' is holding it, again, part #10. I can't guess on the rattling, could be many things. Chance you could post a pic of the worn or scarred area? Has the bike ever been wrecked or any front end damage?

'02 Bonneville - AI removed, 152MJ's, 42's 1.5 turns out, Air Box Gone/Uni Filters, TPS removed/capped, NH Togas, Nology Coil, Hotwire plug wires, TTP SafeStart, TTP Firestarter, D9 Bracket, Pingel petcock, 19 tooth sprocket, Michelin Pilot Actives.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lpar View Post
First thing I noticed, on the spacer, a longitudinal 5mm wide dark wear on its entire length.
After draining, I start to pump, to drain further. I could hear something rattling/rolling inside by tilting the fork.

I have not seen mine for years but that dark mark could be just the welding marks for the tube, being of the cheap "seam welded" variety rather than the more expensive seamless "drawn type". A seam weld looks much like this:



Last edited by Forchetto; 09-03-2019 at 12:58 AM.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 03:37 AM
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Having slept on it I would also suggest , budget allowing , as you will be disassembling your forks upgrading the internals .
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 04:30 AM
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Garage
If you don't have a 'rattle gun' then the broom handle option worked well for me.
[see a delboy video for more info]
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