2013 EFI Bonneville electrical issue: engine cuts out while in motion - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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2013 EFI Bonneville electrical issue: engine cuts out while in motion

Mag wheel Bonnie. Happened last week and has been sitting in the garage ever since. I was riding at about 25mph and the engine cut out. It came back after a half block of coasting and I made it home. I canít remember whether I pressed the starter, or not. But, while the engine was out, so was the entire instrument cluster. When the engine came back, so did the instruments.

Prior to this, there was one morning where I saw a brief flash and everything went out when I tried to start the bike. After that happened, I just cycled the key off and back on, and everything fired up when I hit the starter. No blown fuses ó not sure what could have caused the flash.

Iíve metered the battery and itís fine. 12.8v.

Last year, I installed relays, to bypass the starter terminals in the very corroded ignition switch. I followed the guidelines published in this forum (I forget who the user is who did the write-up), and everything worked great. But, I suppose that could be the source of my issue.

Where should I start looking and what tests should I be conducting?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry: it was Ripperís relay mod that I did. Sorry I didnít remember.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 04:32 PM
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Need more data to id the fault. Could it be the kill switch going open circuit randomly? There are also reports of wiring loom breaks especially near the steering column headstock. Tricky to chase down b/c the outer insulation can seem fine while the conductor can be cracked.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by lhoff601 View Post
Mag wheel Bonnie. Happened last week and has been sitting in the garage ever since. I was riding at about 25mph and the engine cut out. It came back after a half block of coasting and I made it home. I canít remember whether I pressed the starter, or not. But, while the engine was out, so was the entire instrument cluster. When the engine came back, so did the instruments.
If its a canbus bike (post 2011 with VDO gauges), the problem is most likely to be broken crimp joints inside the wiring harness, just where it passes the steering head. The only way to find out or fix this issue is to open up the harness. Unwrap the outer tape and you will see a number of blue tape joints. Canbus models have been plagued with this problem from day 1.

Quote:
Where should I start looking and what tests should I be conducting?
Just unwrap those blue tape joints, you will see any broken ones. I suggest soldering the joints back together but stiffen the joints with something like a piece of plastic drinking straw or even a piece of toothpick before you tape them back up. The stiffener, whatever you use, should extend about 3/4 inch each side of the solder joint. This prevents them from breaking again since the reason they break is movement in the harness caused by the steering.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Springing to the rescue, once again! Thank you, Ripper! I'll dig into that tomorrow.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Update: now, absolutely nothing happens when I turn the key. Before turning the key, a meter shows the battery to be at 12.79v. After turning the key, no lights, no pump, and the meter reads 2.5v.

I have not yet dived into the harness, as Iím going to first try a new battery.

More to come.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 07:26 PM
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Update: now, absolutely nothing happens when I turn the key. Before turning the key, a meter shows the battery to be at 12.79v. After turning the key, no lights, no pump, and the meter reads 2.5v.

I have not yet dived into the harness, as Iím going to first try a new battery.
A wise choice, opening the harness is a ball ache which needs to be done as a last resort. It depends where you are reading the voltage from - is this voltage drop with the meter connected directly to the battery? If so, the battery is probably the culprit. AGM batteries do tend to die suddenly.

Arrow 2-2, Snorkel/Baffle removed, DNA filter, TTP Tune#3, TEC piggy back gas shocks, 5.5" risers with drag bars, LED Lighting, Hazards, Oberon Footpegs, Burton Seat, D9 bracketry, Hands Free Keyless ignition.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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...is this voltage drop with the meter connected directly to the battery?...

Yup. A pisser: I just replaced the battery last year. Yuasa YTX14-BS. Didnít think it could be so short lived.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 01:06 AM
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Yup. A pisser: I just replaced the battery last year. Yuasa YTX14-BS. Didnít think it could be so short lived.
All kinds of things can happen, such as the glass mat coming away from the plates or drying out. Other than that there is little you can do but make sure that a new battery is commissioned properly before putting it on the bike. This is my ritual for that -

1 - Clip the acid container onto the battery and wait for the bottles to empty. Do not try to rush this by squeezing the container but you can gently tap a bottle that is having difficulty to get the air bubbles up to the top. Should take about 20 minutes.
2 - Remove the container and let the battery soak for at least 45 minutes. I generally allow a couple of hours soaking time.

3 - Put the battery on an automatic charger and leave it charging until the charge light turns green or full charge is indicated.
4 - Let the battery stand for another couple of hours, put the cell cover on and put the battery on the bike.

Arrow 2-2, Snorkel/Baffle removed, DNA filter, TTP Tune#3, TEC piggy back gas shocks, 5.5" risers with drag bars, LED Lighting, Hazards, Oberon Footpegs, Burton Seat, D9 bracketry, Hands Free Keyless ignition.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Just want to close this thread out. I replaced the battery 3 weeks ago and

- bike has started right up, every time
- have never been able to reproduce the time that I had the engine cut out while I was in motion.

Hard to believe a battery could go bad after only a year, two years in a row.

I metered the whole system looking for phantom draw and found none.

Iím calling this solved, for now.

Perhaps the winter months will include a major wiring go over....

Thanks!
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