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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Problems changing break pads

Hi guys

Some welcome help needed have a Few questions/ problems regarding changing out break pads
1) front break pads I can’t seem to crack the top retaining screw to access the Allen bolt to remove the pads it’s literally so tight and slightly bored ...any ideas ? See first photo

2) I can’t work out which tool to remove the pins on the rear break pads an unusual nut from what I see ....an Allen key/ hex key or normal ring spanner don’t do the job seems to have holes. Also attached photo

Any info will be appreciated

Luke
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 03:24 PM
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Hi
On the front brake use a very good fitting straight screw driver. It will be REALLY tight. Hold the screw driver in place and give it a few sharp taps with a hammer. Make sure you don't chew the head up or it really will be a pain. The rear bolts aren't standard. The holes on yours are for lock-wire if you are racing. The standard ones are allen bolts. Looks like an open end spanner should do it.

As is often mentioned here - get yourself an owners manual.

Hope that helps

Jon
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 07:56 PM
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Yes the rears are not standard as I just did mine and they are 5mm allen key with the heads sitting flush to the caliper hole. One of mine was seized up and it rounded out while trying to remove. Had to drill it and hammer in an easy-out bit before it would come out. Now I'm stuck waiting for the glacial delivery at a local triumph shop for a new pin.
You might want to hit the rears/fronts with penetrating oil, propane torch heating and tapping the tool bit into the bolts to free them up. An impact driver (the type you whack with a big hammer) is also a good idea. The front cap you're having trouble with is just plastic I believe and will shred if too stuck....it's just a cap to reduce dirt build up on the real pin bolt head beneath. No biggie if you shred the cap.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 12:01 AM
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I had trouble with that cap on the front caliper this weekend. I put a screwdriver on it and some vice grips on that down by the caliper at 90 degrees, that gave me enough leverage to get it to turn.

Not sure what's up with those rear pins, they're not the ones that came with my bikes.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 06:26 AM
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Hi @Tornado99 .

Are you sure its plastic. Mine is definitely metal. Or do you mean it might as well be plastic ?LOL

Jon

2006 Bonneville T100. Arrows 2-2. Airbox Baffle removed. K+N filter. TTP Bellmouth. TTP BlueFlame coils. TTP jetting kit. Crank case breather moved. 120 mains. 40 pilots. 3 Turns idle jet.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonnys Bonnie View Post
Hi @Tornado99 .

Are you sure its plastic. Mine is definitely metal. Or do you mean it might as well be plastic ?LOL

Jon
You may be right but I seem to recall it being made of plastic as there was a youtube showing how easily it deformed when stuck. I've had mine off a couple of time but some time ago now...not stuck in my case.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 01:31 PM
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Mine were metal. I keep replacement pins in "inventory" and just replace them about every-other pad replacement or so. The front pin comes with a replacement cap.

I rounded the head of a pin last year, I took the caliper to the local guys who turns rotors, etc, and had him remove it. That was my fault though, I was fumbling around and didn't have the allen wrench square in the pin head.

Now I coat the threads with antisieze before installing them.


Looking around I see you can get titanium race-spec pins that look just like the OP's pic. I may buy a set next time, not sure if they are more durable, but the weight savings would be nice.
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