Starting a T-100 after 5 years (long post) - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
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Starting a T-100 after 5 years (long post)

Hi everyone, I need some advice. I let my EFI T-100 sit for over five years & im afraid the fuel system needs work before & after I turn the ignition. I’ve got a few questions but here’s the skinny.

Younger and dumber me let the Bonne sit for 5+ years. Neglect was due to a work injury and constant out of state work thereafter. Worse of all, it sat outside under a ****ty tarp with fuel in the tank.

A lot of parts went south from sitting too long in the elements. No service was done aside from a oil & filter change ~ two years ago. That was the last time it was turned on, but hasn’t been ridden since mid 2014.

Fast forward to now—over the past few weeks I’ve been doing a lot of cleaning, servicing & restoration work rebuilding/replacing parts & assemblies. I’ve covered most of the bike except the most important one, which is the fuel assembly. Triumph dealer service costs are a disgrace in my area ($389 for an oil change) and I’d like to tackle this myself.

Concerning the fuel system, I flushed out the fuel tank (no rust), replaced the fuel filter, changed the fuel lines housed inside the tank & leading to the throttle body, bought new spark plugs, new tank gasket, and rinsed out the strainer & metallic fuel pump baffle sponge.

-Assuming the rest of the bike is solid (electrics, drive, brakes, suspension, etc) what would you recommend I do before I even turn on the ignition? I read I should drop some oil in the cylinders before starting her up, what else?

-Would you recommend I take the throttle bodies out for a cleaning? Haynes Manuel says I’d need new O-Rings for the intake stub screws attached to the cylinder head that come off with the assembly. Are those cheap and easy to find?

-Do you recommend physically taking the fuel injectors out for a flush? Or wish for the best with a cleaning fluid via the gas tank? Again, Haynes Manuel suggests that unless I plan on replacing the FI(s) they don’t recommend I remove them as their seals are not sold separately.

-Should the throttle cable be replaced from sitting outside for so long, or just lubricated?

-Do you think the throttle bodies need synching from sitting out so long?

Side questions: do you recommend I change the unused new oil & filter I put in two years ago? Do you foresee any problems with the clutch from the long sit and things I can do to ensure it runs smoothly?

Sorry for the length, but thank you for making it out this far.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 06:49 AM
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Good luck getting it running. A new battery may be needed and don't forget to make sure the braking system is up to the job. The pads
and or rotors may be rusted and I would definitely change the brake fluid. Yes put a few ounces of oil into the spark plug holes and manually turn the engine over per the back wheel.
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Last edited by yrunvs; 04-10-2019 at 06:53 AM.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 09:30 AM
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A small amount of oil in the cylinders and turned over manually, as suggested, wouldn't be a bad idea. Marvel mystery oil has been a favorite for tasks like that for decades.

Throttle cables may be ok. If they don't bind at all, a lube job may be all it takes.

It sounds like you've taken care of the external fuel system about as well as anyone could. Since the tank now has fresh fuel in it, I'd try to give it a go without disassembling the throttle bodies. At this point, you've got nothing to lose. At least you won't be pumping nasty old fuel into the injectors, since you've flushed everything. If it doesn't run, or only runs on one cylinder, you then know you'll have to dig in. If it runs reasonably well, a tank or two of well-treated fuel may finish the cleaning job. As an Amsoil dealer, I use Amsoil Quickshot (https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...-EA?zo=5889580), but there are many options that people swear by, like Seafoam and Berryman's B12. If it ran two years ago when you did the last oil change, it may not be as bad as you think. Speaking of which, fresh oil and a filter seems like good insurance against a bunch of moisture in what's in there. Hot and cold cycles under a tarp can cause a lot of condensation.

The tires are good candidates for replacement, since they're at least 5 years old now. But, if they hold air and aren't dry-cracked from sitting, you can probably ride around on them a little while you sort out the fuel system.

See if you can get it running, and go from there. People have resurrected bikes worse than yours successfully, so don't overthink it. Check the front and rear brake operation on a lift or centerstand if you have one. If the calipers are still operating and releasing freely, great. Fresh fluid run through both front and rear would be a good idea. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, and will attract some moisture over time. Flush it out with some fresh fluid.

Best of luck getting it back on the road!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 12:17 PM
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I am repeating was has been said before and may also be stating the obvious, but.... never assume - it makes an ASS out of U and ME...

1) With the bike sitting for so long start by replacing the oil - after sitting for two years the oil may well have absorbed moisture from the atmosphere and be well past it's prime. (Your filter *should* be ok - if it was my bike I wouldn't replace it - but pull it off to empty it of the old oil at the very least)

2) All the oil will have drained out of the top of the engine as well as cam and crank journals - you *absolutely* want to pull the plugs (replace with new?), drop a little fresh engine oil through the plug holes, wait for a bit, put the bike in fifth gear and (if you don't have a centre stand to get the rear wheel off the ground) push it down the road a little - this will gently turn the engine over, engage the oil pumps and pump fresh oil around the engine - without damaging anything. If you wanted to you could remove the cam cover and liberally dribble fresh engine oil over the cams, journals, & followers etc - you already have the tank off, yes???

3) Lubricate the throttle AND clutch cables - you'll want them to work properly the second the bike is running - replace ONLY if they stick.

4) Tyres and brakes have already been mentioned...

5) As has already been said, don't touch/remove the injectors (they could be fine and you could be opening a can of worms), but putting some injector cleaner additive in with the fresh petrol wouldn't be a bad idea. Throttle bodies shouldn't be out of sync just from sitting for a couple of years - they go out of sync with use....

6) I suppose a cursory look over front and rear suspension wouldn't be a bad idea, but I doubt if there would be a problem.

7) Check & clean the air filter - I found a mouse's nest in mine one spring...

Fresh battery, fresh go-go juice in the tank and a squirt of starter fluid - good to go!

It goes without saying if the bike starts you'll be dying to whizz it around the block - check all your lights still work first!

Tim
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! The brake system definitely needed an overhaul. As you said, rust got to it and I ended up having to replace the pistons & seals in the caliper, brake pads, brake lines, etc.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oil Burner View Post
Marvel mystery oil has been a favorite for tasks like that for decades.
Ive heard great things about MM Oil and will definitely give it a shot. The tires definitely needed changing since they developed flat spots from not being stored on a stand. Thanks for the great input!
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H3CT1C View Post

5) As has already been said, don't touch/remove the injectors (they could be fine and you could be opening a can of worms), but putting some injector cleaner additive in with the fresh petrol wouldn't be a bad idea. Throttle bodies shouldn't be out of sync just from sitting for a couple of years - they go out of sync with use....

Tim
Hey Tim, thanks for the great input. Ill definitely be leaving the throttle bodies alone on this one and relying on fluids to help clean out any gunk. The oil is gonna go as well! Don't know what I was thinking. The golden nugget from all of this was the suggestion from all of you to manually turn over the engine, which I hadn't thought of. I might remove the cam cover if the replacement OEM gasket isn't too pricey. Could be a good time to check valve clearances although I don't suspect they'd deviate from spec from sitting but like you said, assumptions assumptions.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 09:01 PM
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With the spark plugs out it should be very easy to turn the motor over in 4 or 5th gear.. Before removing plugs blow all the gunk out of the plug wells.

TTP Tune#3, NH Toga's.

I'm no Gynecologist but hey I'll take a look.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 01:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zlatansays View Post
I might remove the cam cover if the replacement OEM gasket isn't too pricey...
The gasket is rubber and re-useable a good few times - I smear a little fresh engine oil to both sides to aid sealing.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 04:09 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by H3CT1C View Post
The gasket is rubber and re-useable a good few times - I smear a little fresh engine oil to both sides to aid sealing.
Now you've got me interested in removing the cam cover. This can be done after a fresh oil change yes? I've never done this before and don't want any new oil to drain out by opening something at the wrong time. Noob question-- when the cam cover is off, is there anything that shouldn't get oil on it or can I lubricate every moving part?

In any case I won't be manually turning over the engine until i've put some fresh oil in there and at least oiled the cylinder bores.
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