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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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No Spark

Hello,

Looking for a little help. Took off the stator cover to get it power coated. Put it back together and now it wont start. Check the plugs and no spark. It cranks fine. Does anyone have suggestions on where to start with the trouble shooting.

Thanks,
Doug
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 10:47 PM
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As you know inside stator cover contains a component that is the source of the signals needed for the igniter to produce a spark at the correct time, the pick-up or crank position sensor (CPS).


Did you do anything with that? Was the cable connecting that component to the loom disturbed at all?
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 05:47 AM
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@Forchetto beat me to it - I was going to say has the crank position sensor / pick-up coil had a 'knock' when refitting the alternator cover? Air gap between CPS & one of the raised lobes on the flywheel should be 0.8mm... also have a look at the CPS wires - are they chaffed/pinched/shoddy? Bear in mind that the CPS seems to be about as hardy and reliable as a chocolate teapot - I'm currently off the road waiting for my fourth *replacement* in only 80,000km....

Tim
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Guys. Was out of town all week. Tomorrow I'll drain the oil, remove the cover and give it a visual inspection and check the CPS gap. Is there any continuity or voltage checks to check? Hopefully I can reuse the cover gasket.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 10:32 PM
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Thanks Guys. Was out of town all week. Tomorrow I'll drain the oil, remove the cover and give it a visual inspection and check the CPS gap. Is there any continuity or voltage checks to check? Hopefully I can reuse the cover gasket.

There's only a basic test for resistance.

The resistance test can be done by locating the pick-up connector cunningly hidden on top of the airbox between it and the frame tubing where it's a pain in the arse to reach. The readings to be expected are as follows:

Up to Engine number 437492 it should read around 600 Ohms, over that number they changed the component and the later one should read 217 Ohms or so.


To reach the connector I've had to remove battery and the ECU, undo the bolts holding the airbox to the frame, loosen off the clamps that join the airbox to the carbs or throttle bodies and pull the airbox back and downwards.


The connector is tucked away there. I've pulled mine out and placed it on top of the fusebox like this:


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Last edited by Forchetto; 04-12-2019 at 10:35 PM.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Forchetto,

Really good info...Many thanks! hopefully i will find something obvious and I won't have to go digging for that connector.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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Well...took the stator cover back off for a visual inspection and to check the gap on the CPS sensor. The gap was good and the wires from the CPS looked to be in good shape. I'll check the resistance next. Looking through the service manual it does not have a good trouble shooting diagram for the ignition circuit only the starter circuit...as my starter cranks this isn't too helpful.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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So the CPS resistance was 610 ohms... not sure what to do next. Is there a way to check the voltage from the CPS to make sure it's working?
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 10:25 PM
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So the CPS resistance was 610 ohms... not sure what to do next. Is there a way to check the voltage from the CPS to make sure it's working?
The pick-up is really a tiny generator. Its cylindrical metal core is strongly magnetic and each time the reluctors (the raised bits on the flywheel rotor) passes near it generates a tiny AC pulse of a volt or two.

You can make it generate a pulse by getting the tip of a screwdriver or other magnetic metal thing attracted by the magnet, observe a sensitive multimeter or oscilloscope connected to it, and withdraw it from the magnetic core in a rapid movement. I don't think your problem is there though.

To help any further from now on we must know the year of the bike, carbed or EFI, as the ignition systems differ considerably.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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It's a 2005 carbed Thruxton. Mods include Epco exhausts, high flow filter, dynojet kit, barnet springs, and a new rectifier relocation under rear fender. Bike would start before I removed valve cover, clutch cover, sprocket cover, stator cover, and wheels for powder coating. They didn't powder coat the inside of the stator cover. Cranks fine but no spark. Kickstand up, kill switch off, bike in neutral. Battery at 13.xx volts and on a battery tinder. No spark on either side with new plugs.

Thanks in advance for the help
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