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Engine light??

7K views 18 replies 5 participants last post by  Beardychops 
#1 ·
So took the bike out today, and all good. Stopped for a bit then went on, all good. But as I set off the third time, after a few minutes the engine light came on? Now the bike was running fine and did so all the way home - no limp mode, good throttle response. Is there anything I can start checking manually as my laptop is f’d and I don’t have a tune program anyway?
Bike info: ‘09 T100 O2 removed SAI removed resistors fitted. I then removed Air box baffle and had it reprogramed by TTP, hi flo filter and
bell mouth. Tor exhausts.
It has been a joy to ride since although it still kept a little jerkiness of the throttle response even after the re map? Any pointers, tips or advice will be gratefully received on this one gentlemen (and ladies)
Thanks for reading.
 
#2 ·
You really do need to know the code number to know the fault if the engine light is constantly on, if it detected something it didn't like but has since cleared, ie sensor on start up etc then 3 cold to hot runs will reset it
There are Bluetooth obd11 modules out there that can use a phone app for free, tune ecu do a small charge app
 
#3 ·
Yes the code is a must to diagnose. You could run it into any auto repair shop and they can put their OBDII scanner on it to read the code. If they cannot decode the code number. That can be looked up on line or in a Triumph service manual.
Alternatively you can buy a standard automotive code reader at local stores to get the code and reset it, but TuneECU with cable is a much better way to go.

In meantime, check over all the connections for the SAI resistor, O2 resistor if you used those (TTP tune can/should have been set to turn off both SAI and O2 warnings so not sure why you need either resistor). Also, check the ambient temperature sensor connection. You may have an air leak at one of the MAP sensor 3mm vacuum hoses...what happens to idle when you spray these heavily with carb/injector cleaner? These little hoses do crack with age and should be replaced as good preventative maintenance.
 
#7 ·
Concerning. Check its connections. Also, how's your oil level? Engine light on our bikes is really a huge catch basin for all sorts of unrelated things....
 
#6 · (Edited)
All OBDII scanners can read all OBDII compliant vehicles....so yes it will work on the Bonneville....but it may not be able to interpret what the code means (look up table may not be complete). But having the code itself is useful...can be figured out on the internet or just post it here and someone may know it.

Before these scanners/readers were readily availableto the home mechanic, I recall my first OBDII car (1992 VW Corrado) had a method to read out the code by triggering the ECU to flash the Check Engine Light in a series of short/long blinks. Was really tedious but you could get the codes and look them up in the shop manual.
 
#8 ·
Oil level was good, no visable leaks after warming up and pre ride checks. I’m going to pick up a code reader, at least it’ll point me in the right direction. It’s always well serviced too, fingers crossed it’s an easy fix?!
 
#9 ·
Here's Johnny Cactus' video on his use of a standard car scanner for his bonneville engine light issue:

[ame]https://youtu.be/wM537wOjfpk?t=193[/ame]
 
#10 ·
#12 · (Edited)
Find the barometric pressure sensor, it's under the seat like this, top right of photo:





Inspect the wiring for breaks or damage, plug and unplug from its connector a couple of times in case the contacts are dirty or corroded and unbolt from the frame to check that the air pressure sensing pipe stub is not blocked by either a spider's nest or other debris, including a bent bracket or rear fender mods that bring the open end of the stub too close to them:





If something like that is what is causing the fault code, remove cause and use the OBD code reader to cancel the MIL light.
 
#14 · (Edited)
How do you test this type of component?. no real idea, but thinking laterally, if you blow or suck on the hose stub port something must change as you're varying the pressure the component senses.

The sensor is fed with +5 volts from the ECM that go into terminal 3 (pink wire). Terminal 2 (Pink/black wire) is connected to ground or negative. The remaining terminal 1 (Pink/purple) is the output signal to the ECM.

At sea level, where I live, 4 volts are seen there. If you monitor this voltage and blow down the port with your mouth, that voltage rises to 4.5 volts. Stop blowing and it returns to 4.0 volts. Now suck on it with all your might and the voltage at terminal 1 drops to around 3.45 volts.

I realise this is not very scientific or factory approved procedure, but it's as good as any to ascertain if this component is working. Don't go looking in the factory manual for help either. There's none worth reading.


As the connections are impossible to reach to be able to do the voltage measurements outlined above, the thing to do is to either use some of those multimeter probes that end in a needle-sharp point which is intended to pierce the cables or stick some pins into the insulation until they touch the copper wire and attach the meter probes to the pins with croc clips.


Attach a length of hose to the stub and place the end in your mouth to provide the blow and suck part of the test (ensure there are no spider's nest inside the component, we've had those blocking the stub before :) ).


The multimeter negative probe is connected to a good ground or directly to the pink/black wire, the positive probe to the pink/purple. Note the voltage and blow or suck on the hose and observe if the meter display. changes
 
#15 ·
if you have the Tune program and an OBD cable you can see what the sensor is reading. used it the other day when I had a problem to check the pressure and temp sensors were working. They were in my case.
 
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#17 · (Edited)
If the code reader that you've bought is one of those low-cost Bluetooth plug-in units, then you can download TuneEcu for android phones for £10 or so. That would enable you to see the sensor working as @plodalong suggests.

The reading you'll see on the screen should be exactly the same as the current weather reports, so many mbs. For example where you are in Surrey it should read 1015mb at the moment rising to 1018 towards the end of the day (and you'll get some rain). The sensor is really acting like a mini weather station!.

http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/android.html

Air pressure readings to be expected from sites like these:

https://www.netweather.tv/weather-forecasts/uk/7-day/31740~Farnham,%20Surrey

Have you done the basic checks as suggested in my posts 14 and 17? there's no feedback or acknowledgement of the posts. To me this means I'm wasting my time and at my age I'm close to my dead-by-date and can't afford to hang around here for nothing...:)
 
#18 ·
Time never wasted on here!
I’ve tried clearing out said part - no apparent spider nests or any other bug life. OBD was a plug in part not a blue tooth option, so until new year when the new lap top arrives the more technical stuff will have to wait. I do have a multimeter in the workshop, so could test resistance if I can figure out what to do?
But for now the Christmas ales have been unleashed, and it’s pi**ing with rain, so Merry Christmas one and all, technical duties will resume soon.
 
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