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The dreaded "click" when trying to start

60K views 64 replies 27 participants last post by  Scrammy 
#1 · (Edited)
We often get enquiries like "I can only hear a click when starter button is pressed". It's important to ascertain where the "click" comes from and observe what else happens when the button is pressed.

A strong click, often accompanied by a buzzing sound, tends to emanate from the starter solenoid. This is one of the most common complaints voiced over the Internet. The fault is almost always a low battery voltage from an old or discharged battery, loose battery connections, etc.

The solenoid coil will try to operate from a much lower voltage than its nominal 12 Volts, but it'll do so in a "half-arsed" sort of way. As the main contacts close the high starter motor current demand (>60 amps) will make the already low battery voltage drop even lower, causing the solenoid coil to de-energise and drop the contacts again. This cuts the current to the starter motor and the battery, now relieved of the load, raises its voltage slightly and the same cycle quickly repeats itself causing the characteristic "buzz".

A weaker click is more likely to come from the starter relay, also called the "headlamp relay" in some manuals. Find out for sure by removing left side panel and placing your fingers over the relay casing. Operate starter button, the click will be more audible and the movement of the relay mechanism can be clearly felt through the casing.

If that's the source of the click, what else happens when you press the button?

Does the headlight turn off? if yes, this is fine, after all the relay function is to disconnect the headlight load and divert its power momentarily to the starter solenoid coil.

Observe the idiot lights closely: Do they go dim at all? If they don't dim or flicker, the chances are that the diverted current is not going anywhere and trouble lies in a faulty solenoid coil or, far more likely, the condition of the relay contacts.

These relays are not sealed as befits a component that'll be fitted to a motorcycle and exposed to dirt and the weather, but it is cheap and Triumph's Bean counters get a stiffy out of that. The outer casing simply clips over the internals leaving small gaps and over time dirt, damp and an oily film is deposited on the contacts. This creates a high resistance to the current flow, often of the order of several Ohms. This reduces current to the solenoid coil to a level where it won't operate at all. The solenoid coil requires nearly 3 amps to operate satisfactorily.

You might find that repeated attempts to start often gets results, the dirt film being broken through or displaced by the repeated hammering together of the contacts, but the problem always comes back. It's not difficult to clean these contacts, unplug relay, remove outer casing with a small screwdriver or penknife and slide a strip of thin, absorbent card between the contacts moistened in contact cleaner or simply alcohol, meths or some other non-oily solvent. As the card is pulled out you'll see the dirt stuck on it.

First clean the normally-closed contacts, numbers 87A and 30, all the headlight current flows through these. Keep sliding a clean piece of card until it no longer comes out dirty. As a side benefit you might well be rewarded with a brighter headlight for your efforts.

Then move on to the normally-open contacts, numbers 87 and 30. You'll need to manually force these to close by pushing gently on the armature so the card can do its thing. Close them just hard enough for the card to be gripped and slid in and out with a litle friction, keep doing it until the card comes out clean.

Re-install and enjoy a brighter headlight and reliable starting. The above advice stems from my recent experience when the starting became progressively worse over time until I decided to get off my arse after putting up with it for weeks and do something about it...:)

A couple of photos, the first shows the layout behind the left side panel. The red "emergency" button is part of a mod detailed on the thread below. I'm afraid the photos are gone but I've put new links to them on post 122 of that thread:

http://www.triumphrat.net/air-coole...p-easy-and-effective-emergency-start-mod.html

Pictures linked here:

http://www.triumphrat.net/7320234-post122.html

I had to use it for the first time as eventually repeatedly pressing the start button brought no results. The extra pressure exerted by the emergency button on the contacts kicked the relay into action and got me going.

The second shows the internal details of the starter relay. The contact numbers shown are moulded on the plastic relay base next to the plug-in tabs.




 
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#2 ·
Another excellent write up Forchetto, thanks, and I'm sure the headlamp relay isn't the only thing that gives the bean counters a stiffy - they must be positively creaming their pants at the plastic headlight lenses, indicators and wiring harnesses.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Another great thread.

I'm looking to do your emergency button mod and am having trouble visualising where the button presses. I get that it interacts with the armature but where does the button physically press onto? Any chance you could mark it up on picture above ^ ?

Thanks!

Edit:

Ok so I think I was looking at the picture incorrectly. I take it the hole in drilled from the front and the armature is then pressed inwards so that it connects to 85 and 86?
 
#5 · (Edited)
It pushes against the armature like this. Note relay has a flexible braid connection to bridge the armature whereas the one in the other photo has a sort of spring blade. Make the plunger presses directly against the armature and not the braid

It connects terminals 30 and 87 by mechanically moving the armature in the same way as the electromagnetic coil would in normal operation:

 
#7 ·
Some folk simply drill a hole and seal it with a bit of insulating tape. In an emergency the tape is peeled back and the armature can be prodded with something like a golf T or even the 5mm Allen key that lives next to the fusebox and Triumph pretends is a "tool kit".
 
#8 · (Edited)
Hey @Forchetto - hopefully you see this because I'm not sure how to PM you. I have a bit of an odd problem.

Went to start my bike about 2 weeks ago and got the dreaded click. The battery was flat. Fine, charged it up and went on my way. This has happened twice in the 3 years I've owned the bike. Once before I left the bike for 5 days during a cold winter without starting it and the second time it stood in fine rain all day.

Well, the same happened again yesterday. I started up the bike, rode 5 miles to the parents, switched it off for 5 minutes, tried to start it and got the dreaded click (I noticed I had left my high beams on while riding so maybe this also attributed to the drained battery which is odd!!??). It was now so flat that it switched the bike off completely and restarted the fuel pump over and over until I switched the ignition off - is that normal for a flat battery to do that? So I charged the battery again and went to start it. Click, nothing. Tried once more, click, nothing. Got phone out to film the problem so I turned the bike on again and all of a sudden it starts. Why would it suddenly start after not starting the previous two attempts?

A few bits of info:

  • This has only happened 3 times over 3 years of owning the bike (from new)
  • I ride a total of 8 miles a day - the battery goes flat over a period of about 3-6 months so I charge it up once or twice during that period
  • Could it be the wet getting into somewhere? Twice now the bike has been very wet (1st was left in fine rain all day, 2nd was after washing it) and then not started - if it is the wet causing it how can I tell?
  • Optimate charger said that the battery was flat - so that was the problem but odd that wet whether kills the battery?
  • Could it be the alternator!?

So to sum up, I know this is a flat battery problem but can water cause it? What checks can I do because previous to this the battery has been fine. Like I said it's only happened 3 times in 3 years (the latest 2 within the last 2 weeks!)

Thanks!
 
#9 ·
If the battery is tired and won't hold a decent charge it could be that, although the cycling of the electrics on-off you mention can be caused by nothing more than loose or corroded battery terminals. That symptom shows itself by all the idiot lights, etc going off and then coming back to full brightness slowly.
 
#13 · (Edited)
This seemed like the best thread to ask this.

I think I have the issue described in the thread, and wanted to double check a couple of things;
1. my battery is showing 9.92 on my volt meter

is this too low?
2. is there a superior battery that the standard YTX12-BS 12V? The idea of a smaller gel battery appeals as it would give a bit of space for my mini tool kit.
3. Could one of these work as the plunger for Forchetto's override fix?


Cheers.

Background:
a. bike in storage for a year.
b. battery showed as ok on the optimate after a fair bit of time, but wasn't tested with a multimeter
c. oil level is a little high (oil has been changed, but anticipated a bit of a drop once it had been round the system)
d. old fuel drained with hand pump and replaced, fuel a little low, but still sufficent, warning light came on, but went out, after few attempted starts.
e. left dial sometime dropped out completely
 
#17 ·
1. my battery is showing 9.92 on my volt meter
To be this low it almost definitely has a dead cell.

2. is there a superior battery that the standard YTX12-BS 12V? The idea of a smaller gel battery appeals as it would give a bit of space for my mini tool kit.
If by "gel" you mean AGM then a replacement is not going to be any smaller. You could put in a LiFePO4 that would maybe be 70% of the stock battery size and about 30% of the weight, but it would be very expensive and require different tickle charger plus they have very poor cold weather performance. IMHO not worth it.

b. battery showed as ok on the optimate after a fair bit of time, but wasn't tested with a multimeter
Check it with the meter. If it's below 12.5v after being fully charged then toss it. You can take the battery to an AutoZone or other type big box auto parts store and have it load tested to be sure. If it was me I'd replace it immediately.


Sent from my SHIELD Tablet K1 using Tapatalk
 
#16 ·
Thanks for your write-ups. I learn a great deal and lose fear about working on different systems of my 2001 Bonneville.
Strangely yesterday, 10.17.18 must have been click day. My bike was low on gas (but not on reserve), the starter engaged but then wouldn't start, then lots of clicks. Eventually I drained the battery. I filled up the gas, got a jump start and the engine ran great (but on choke). I used the USA favorite Sea Foam and today, cold day, the bike ran well. Battery now holding a charge.

Gremlins.

I do think someone messed with my idle control while the bike was parked (turned it way way low). I've got it all sorted out for today.

I think the following things happened all together:
1) Low gas allowed gunk into the carb.
2) Battery wasn't really charged well that day--had ridden a short while at lunch with
3) Gunk sucked into carb on starting after 6 hours dormant on cool day
4) I believe that someone monkeyed with my idle control (turned it way the F down) which sort of started this cascade or aided and abetted.

Will continue monitoring.
 
#18 · (Edited)

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#19 ·
I'm hoping someone can give me an assist before I go out to do a little troubleshooting tomorrow. Bike is a 2014 Thruxton.

I got caught out in a thunderstorm today and got absolutely soaked. I stopped for fuel, and when I turned off the engine-cut-off switch, the starter engaged and tried to crank. I turned off the ignition, which stopped the cranking. After fueling, I turned on the cut-off switch first, then turned the key and the bike started without me touching the starter button (but it ran fine once going). When I got home a few minutes later, I had the same constant cranking when I turned off the cut-off switch.

Fast forward a couple of hours after it stopped raining, and I went out to check the bike--same problem with the cranking. I pulled off the starter relay (headlamp cut off relay), which definitely had some water in it. After I plugged the relay back in, I turned the ignition on, and didn't have the constant cranking. But when I tried the starter button, I just got the click.

I brought the battery inside to charge so it'll be fresh in the morning--it was at 12.3v before charging. I'm going to try tracing the click and no-start tomorrow, but any ideas what might have caused the constant cranking?
 
#20 ·
Water in the starter switch or the starter relay (headlight cut out relay) could cause the starter to ingauge with ignition on. Though I don't know why it didn't stay ingauged after the engine started, which usually ruins the starter. When checking see if the click is coming from the starter relay or the solenoid. Make sure the previously wet relay contacts are clean. Try to start with the relay cover off to see if it's working.
 
#21 ·
I pulled the starter relay, dried with a blow dryer, and cleaned the contacts. Tried it back in the bike with a charged battery, and still just a click (coming from the relay). When I shorted pins 1 and 3 on the starter solenoid, the bike fired up. I'm going to look at getting a new relay today. In the meantime, should I assume that the water in the relay shorted the N/C contacts and caused the solenoid to keep trying to turn even when the cut-off switch was off?
 
#23 ·
Yep, the headlight was on but turned off when I pressed the starter button. I bought a replacement relay at the auto parts stored, and the bike fired up first time. I wouldn't have thought that some water in the starter relay could get close to burning out my starter motor--but I dodged a bigger problem this time.

Thanks to the whole forum (and especially Forchetto) for having so much helpful info around.
 
#24 ·
Can you protect the new relay by wrapping in electrical tape? Even better would be a bit of wide diameter heat shrink. You just need to cover the joint along the edges to prevent splash and condensation intrusion.
 
#25 ·
Yep, I did that to keep it dry. But today while out, after one long ride and two short trips, I had the click again. I jumped pins 1 and 3 on the solenoid, but no luck--just some weak clicking in the solenoid. Then I walked over and bought a tool to jump pins 3 and 4, but that didn't turn the engine over. Now I'm waiting for a tow, and then I'll get to do some more troubleshooting. Hopefully I'm dealing with a dead battery at this point; it's the original that is 5 years old. Fingers crossed it's nothing much bigger.
 
#27 ·
Well I think I have the click problem

I just found this thread and think you have described what is happening with my 2011. The battery is new and hot. I'm going to replace the solenoid and hope for the best. Comments?
 
#30 ·
I just found this thread and think you have described what is happening with my 2011. The battery is new and hot. I'm going to replace the solenoid and hope for the best. Comments?
Judging from years of threads on this forum, the solenoid is rarely the problem.
 
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#28 ·
I had the same problem with my 2004 carb bonneville. Replaced the starter relay but it did not solve this particular problem. Then I removed ignition lock and took it apart: wiring had been corrored by water. I carefully cleaned corrored parts and assembled ignition lock. The bike started on the second try.
 
#29 ·
I should have posted an update before now. The battery had basically no amps, even though it was showing about 13v. I replaced that and it works fine now--back to loving the Thruxton!
 
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#31 ·
Click on right side. Triumph Scrambler starts when jumped but doesn't hold power.

Hey guys,

Ive been skimming these threads the past few days, and cant seem to locate my problem (although I'm not very mechanically savvy). I replaced my back fender with a BC tail tidy a few weeks ago, and ever since I cannot get my bike to start. I hear a pretty audible click on the right side after I hear the fuel pump prime. The bike will click several times before halting altogether. I can get the bike to start after jumping it with my car, but after running the bike and turning it off it will not start again and presents the same problem. I cannot tell if this is stemming from a poor battery, the solenoid, the starter relay, or some wiring issue presented when I did the tail tidy. My battery seems to be hovering around 12.4 volts, and when I put the multimeter to the terminals for solenoid it also reads. Please help? I don't want to take to have her diagnosed at the shop later today, but figure I may have to with my lack of experience.

Thanks !
 
#32 ·
How old is your battery? Do you use a Battery Tender or Optimate to keep it fully charged? If it's three or more years, replace it before you even think about doing anything else. The EFI bikes are notorious for not starting even with marginally acceptable battery voltage. This might have nothing to do with your modification, or I might be completely wrong.

Put your bike and location information in your profile.
 
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