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Air Cooled Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, Bobber, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.


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post #71 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by bsgrimes View Post
I'm gonna look into this. I've never seen or heard of this process.
What you are going to want to look for is a product made by several manufacturers, that is known as "Cold Bluing".

"Actual" gun bluing is a process using "Bluing Salts", at a very high temperature.......... you could not subject a tank to that due to seam sealers and internal tank "lining/sealer".

The tank can/wil still rust.

"Re-sanding" is a poor option for a bare tank, you only have "so-much" material to work with. It will "thin" the tank metal each and every time. Not to mention a PITA.

"Clear coating" the tank is the "proper" way to finalize a "bare" tank.
You can even use a "matt" clear so it still looks "bare"

It would be recommended to "clear" the tank after "Cold Bluing" as well. Again, "matt clear" will give the best results. Although you will want to wait for the bluing to "cure" for a few days before doing so. Otherwise you WILL have problems with the clear "lifting". "Cold Bluing" is an acidic compound, an Oxidizer (Rust is an Iron Oxide).

This is as much for the gents asking about "Clear Coating", and the need, as it is for you Grimes.

Just because those voices in my head aren't real, doesn't mean they don't have some really good idea's. (wink)
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post #72 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bscott2231 View Post
What you are going to want to look for is a product made by several manufacturers, that is known as "Cold Bluing".

"Re-sanding" is a poor option for a bare tank, you only have "so-much" material to work with. It will "thin" the tank metal each and every time. Not to mention a PITA.
It really doesn't rust that bad. As long as you keep your tank out of the rain and use Gibbs once every two weeks you are fine. I haven't "sanded" it in weeks and there is no rust on the tank. All it does when it does rust is get mild surface rust, the kind one passover with some 600 grit will cure. I have many decades to go before I need to worry about thinning the tank.

This cold bluing idea sounds quite interesting. Should I do it?
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post #73 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 10:10 PM
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It really doesn't rust that bad. As long as you keep your tank out of the rain and use Gibbs once every two weeks you are fine. I haven't "sanded" it in weeks and there is no rust on the tank. All it does when it does rust is get mild surface rust, the kind one passover with some 600 grit will cure. I have many decades to go before I need to worry about thinning the tank.

This cold bluing idea sounds quite interesting. Should I do it?
Well .............. it is reversible.
A bit of work,, but reversible.

"IF" you do not care for the finished appearance, you can use a product generically know as "Metal White".
It will strip the "bluing", returning the metal to a "raw" (white) state once again. It will "etch" the metal, but you can get the "brushed" look back again by with your 600 grip.

There are a few different brands of the Cold Bluing compounds.
Each has a different "color", ranging from more "Blue" to more "Black".
The level of "polish" on the steel will also affect the final "color".

You could get rather trick with it and "polish" the tank "differently", versus "uniform".
Give an area of the tank a High Polish, super shinny ........ by buffing it with an automotive buffer until it looks like Chrome.
"Tape off" the area to remain "Shinny" ............. then give the remaining area of the tank a "Brushed" finished by using a Scotch Brite Scuff Pad (Fine).
Remove the Tape .............. degrease ................. then Cold Blue the "Bit*h".

You will be left with a subtle color/textural difference. Giving you a "Ghost Stripe" affect.

I would recommend that you "High Polish" an original style Triumph T100 style stripe................. then Scotch Brite the remainder.
Using Tape will give you a definitive sharp line between the contrasting finishes.

That has potential to be very unique and kewl.

A matching front fender would bring it together, with a stripe down the middle (High Polish stripe, rest with the same brushed finish)

To prevent rust ............ just a simple coat of an automotive "Wax" (sealant) would do the trick.

Again, has potential.

Just because those voices in my head aren't real, doesn't mean they don't have some really good idea's. (wink)

Last edited by bscott2231; 09-16-2016 at 10:14 PM.
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post #74 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-17-2016, 11:03 AM
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Haven't tried it myself but there's a spray bluing on Brownells.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod80323.aspx

Then their normal cold bluing solutions as well.

Len

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post #75 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-17-2016, 11:09 PM
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Haven't tried it myself but there's a spray bluing on Brownells.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod80323.aspx

Then their normal cold bluing solutions as well.
Well ............ you had my interest, so I had a look.
That product IS NOT a "Bluing" chemical ............ it is merely a topical coating, a "paint", intended to simulate a Blued Finish.
May imitate a color, but cannot get close to the depth of the real thing.
PROBABLY similar to "Chrome" in a can......pitiful.

"Bluing" is a chemical conversion of the surface of steel, not a topical coating.

When it comes to firearms, I am not a big fan of topical, spray on, finishes ........... yet they are all the rage.
Conversion finishes hold up much better over time. IMHO

Just because those voices in my head aren't real, doesn't mean they don't have some really good idea's. (wink)
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post #76 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 05:35 AM
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Phosphoric acid is what yer looking for.
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post #77 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bscott2231 View Post
Well ............ you had my interest, so I had a look.
That product IS NOT a "Bluing" chemical ............ it is merely a topical coating, a "paint", intended to simulate a Blued Finish.
May imitate a color, but cannot get close to the depth of the real thing.
PROBABLY similar to "Chrome" in a can......pitiful.

"Bluing" is a chemical conversion of the surface of steel, not a topical coating.

When it comes to firearms, I am not a big fan of topical, spray on, finishes ........... yet they are all the rage.
Conversion finishes hold up much better over time. IMHO
I don't like the blotchy results of cold bluing...or case hardening or others.
Yeah, I know, Cerakote & others are gaining favor...actually there's a ceramic Titanium Cerakote I'm having my pipes done with...wicked nice.

Deep hot bluing and walnut......heaven!
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post #78 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-18-2016, 10:46 PM
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I don't like the blotchy results of cold bluing...or case hardening or others.
Yeah, I know, Cerakote & others are gaining favor...actually there's a ceramic Titanium Cerakote I'm having my pipes done with...wicked nice.

Deep hot bluing and walnut......heaven!
Ahhh yes!
Over a Highly polished steel.
Vintage Colt & S&W Revolvers ........ gorgeous!

I understand your mentioning the "blotchy" results from Cold Bluing.
Usually the case because of the difficulty in "matching" an existing Salt Bluing, or improperly applied Cold Bluing.

I will not try to imply that Cold Bluing is "as good", or "as pretty" as properly done Salt Bluing ..... because the case cannot be made, but for the "Bluing" of a motorcycle tank ....... it is the best approach.IMO
It would not be advised to Salt Blue a Fuel tank for a few reasons ............
Seam Sealers
Internal Tank Lining/Coatings
and, the effect of "moisture" that WILL get into fuel, settling on the bottom of the tank ......... rust.
Water and various Alcohol's (think, E10) combine to form and acidic compound that would terrorize steel were it not for the internal tank sealer coatings.

Cold Bluing can be applied with a uniform coloration by "Keeping it wet" for several minutes, and applying multiple coatings (to develop the desired level of "Color").
Then it must be allowed to "Cure/Harden" for a few days before polishing, or it will be partially removed (to an extent), lending to a "blotchy" appearance.

On another note ............ it is hard to beat an old Colt "Carbonia Blue" with "Nitre Blue" small parts!

Just because those voices in my head aren't real, doesn't mean they don't have some really good idea's. (wink)

Last edited by bscott2231; 09-18-2016 at 10:50 PM.
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post #79 of 88 (permalink) Old 10-16-2016, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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Added some Bark Busters for the winter.





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post #80 of 88 (permalink) Old 10-18-2016, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
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And my carbon fiber pieces are finally installed.




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