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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Dual Caliper Conversion on Thruxton with Carrozzeria Wheels

How's it goin guys? I will be doing a conversion on my Thruxton soon to Dual Caliper and Wider Rear Wheel from a 1998 Honda CBR F3donor bike that I was able to find. My question is from what I researched the back requires some machining but noticed that Carrozzeria offers wheels for the Thruxton. Is this an easy install and is a bolt on application for the rear? My other question is that because Carrozzeria does not offer wheels for a CBR F3 can I possibly pick a wheel for another model and use some kind of kit and stuff to make it fit and will I come accross any problems with the rotors etc? Thanks in advance and I appreciate any help or advice!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 10:28 PM
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Might be easier to use a GSXR 750 front end, cheap, bolts up with minimal mods and Carro makes a front wheel for it.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 10:44 AM
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Unless you are doing it purely for looks, you can find ALL the stopping power you could possibly use/need from a single 6-piston caliper like the Beringer unit I have and a decent rotor... I can lift the rear wheel with one finger! Just a thought....





NOTE: My Carrozzeria's are the original version (18" front). I believe they only sell a 17" now.... Mine were direct fit. No hassle other than needing to trim the speedo drive nub on the fork leg a bit....
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 01:06 PM
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The rear Carrozzeria is a straight bolt in. It comes with a sprocket which I believe is off a Kawasaki but is the same number of teeth as stock. They do only make a 17" front wheel now. As with Hypurone's 18" wheel the only thing that needs to be done is trim the speedo tang on the fork leg.

As he also points out there is no need for twin front discs except for cosmetics. You can always go large on the front



That's a 340mm rotor on a 17" Carrozzeria wheel. About a 37% increase in swept area over the stock rotor.

2014 Thruxton: Arrow 2-2, Carrozzeria wheels, Woodcraft clip-ons, 2007 top yoke, TPP Aus FEK, Free spirit dash, Free Spirit Brembo front brake, NH TX seat, Bitubo WMT01 shocks, Bitubo cartridge forks, NH TX Tank
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 02:06 PM
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Forgot to mention how much weight you would be adding with another rotor & caliper. And it is unsprung to boot!
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calveitro View Post
That's a 340mm rotor on a 17" Carrozzeria wheel. About a 37% increase in swept area over the stock rotor.
I might be wrong, but the diameter of the rotor doesn't increase the swept area...the pad area provided by the caliper dictates this, no?

I thought the larger rotor diameter simply improves the mechanical advantage due to it providing a longer lever arm...????


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hypurone View Post
Forgot to mention how much weight you would be adding with another rotor & caliper. And it is unsprung to boot!
I've addressed this on my F3 front wheel conversion by filling my tires with helium.

Cheers,

--Rich

Last edited by beemerrich; 08-12-2014 at 06:42 PM.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hypurone View Post
Unless you are doing it purely for looks, you can find ALL the stopping power you could possibly use/need from a single 6-piston caliper like the Beringer unit I have and a decent rotor... I can lift the rear wheel with one finger! Just a thought....
Which master cylinder are you using to lift the rear wheel?

2006 T-100 - NARK, Procom, EmGo Rev. Cones, CBR600F3 Fork Conversion, ZRX KYB Shocks, Beringer 6-pot
2007 Tiger 1050 - K&N Airbox Mod, Two Bros. Race Exhaust, 20545 TuneECU
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerrich View Post
I might be wrong, but the diameter of the rotor doesn't increase the swept area...the pad area provided by the caliper dictates this, no?

I thought the larger rotor diameter simply improves the mechanical advantage due to it providing a longer lever arm...????




I've addressed this on my F3 front wheel conversion by filling my tires with helium.

Cheers,

--Rich
Rich,

You are correct that the pad area determines the swept area to a great extent. However, given the same pad size, unless my maths is way off (and it well might be), the swept area will increase with rotor diameter.

I just did a rough calculation to confirm this. Given a fixed pad diameter of 2cm (for arguments sake. I don't have actual pad diameter in front of me) a 2cm slice of a rotor with an outside diameter of 34cm gives a swept area of 201 square cms. A 2cm slice of a 32cm rotor gives a swept area of 188 square cms. An increase of around 7%. I am no expert and my maths is not the best so I'm happy to be told I'm wrong and have my mistake explained.

The problem may be we have different definitions of swept area. I've always taken it to mean surface area of the rotor the pad sweeps across. It may be there is a more refined (or completely different) definition of the term that I don't know. As I said, if you are looking for an expert in these things, don't look at me.

Also correct that the longer lever arm will provide greater mechanical advantage and hence better braking. Being lazy I conflated the two properties of my set up and ascribed them to the rotor to save on typing. I guess I should have known that there are too many knowledgeable people on here to get away with being lazy.

What I should have said is that given the increase in both rotor diameter and pad size the swept area of my set up increased by 37%.

LOL, as usual I'm probably guilty of too much reply. I tend to write a page where one sentence will do.

Just a quick edit. Obviously overall area of the pads would affect swept area and would somehow have to be included in the calculation. For example changing to a six pot caliper (assuming pad diameter was unchanged) would significantly increase the area. In the light of this thought it is clear my definition of "swept area" is incorrect. A quick look at the old and new pads I have shows my original 37% is little better than a guess. I would need to determine the overall area of the pads and relate that to the area of rotor contacted. I think I'll stick with saying it works better and leave it at that.

So in conclusion all I am willing to say with any confidence is that given equal pad size an increase in rotor diameter will increase the area of rotor swept.

2014 Thruxton: Arrow 2-2, Carrozzeria wheels, Woodcraft clip-ons, 2007 top yoke, TPP Aus FEK, Free spirit dash, Free Spirit Brembo front brake, NH TX seat, Bitubo WMT01 shocks, Bitubo cartridge forks, NH TX Tank

Last edited by Calveitro; 08-13-2014 at 01:19 AM. Reason: Forgot a bit
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by werm42 View Post
Which master cylinder are you using to lift the rear wheel?
Still using the stock master. I know you have had trouble getting yours to work with the Beringer and that still baffles me.....
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hypurone View Post
Still using the stock master. I know you have had trouble getting yours to work with the Beringer and that still baffles me.....
ROFLÖ*I didn't realize that conversation had gone "full-circle".

I'm running the Speedmaster 9/16" MC now, it's the best I can find for 1" bars without going to a very pricey aftermarket MC.

I'm still baffled how your using the 13mm

2006 T-100 - NARK, Procom, EmGo Rev. Cones, CBR600F3 Fork Conversion, ZRX KYB Shocks, Beringer 6-pot
2007 Tiger 1050 - K&N Airbox Mod, Two Bros. Race Exhaust, 20545 TuneECU
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