The Bonneville Neutral Light Switch (Boring!) - Page 7 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #61 of 70 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 12:59 PM
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My neutral light was not working consistently on my T100. I tried crimping the electrical connector slightly to get a better grip on the switch tang. This did not solve the issue. BTW, it was surprisingly tough to re-fit the connector after removing it b/c of the limited slack in the cable and not being able to see the rotation angle due to the presence of the rubber boot (I tried many times to slide the boot off the connector but it would not move) making it nearly impossible to line up the connector with the tang before pushing them together.

Well, next step was to check the switch was fully seated to the transmission housing. A deep 14mm socket was needed (after pulling the @#$%^&* connector off again!). The spec torque is 10 NM...hardly anything at all. Well, out of laziness I just decided to give it a gentle snug up....and sure enough, it moved a fraction with only a little force. Happy to report this seems to have solved my flaky/blinky neutral light.
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post #62 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-29-2017, 03:29 AM
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Thank you for this useful post.
I changed my neutral switch yesterday.
First of all, I had to find where is this switch, because I cannot slide my head under the bike. The best trick is to use a magnifying mirror, one of those women use to make-up.
So it is back right the oïl filter :



First test : I deconnected the wire and touch a screw of the crankcase with it. The N indicator lights so the wire is good. The problem is really the neutral switch.

With a 14mm socket wrench I unscrew it. Be careful ! I've read, here and there, that a little amount of oïl will flow, it was said maxi 100ml. It's more than 500ml which run out !

Here is the comparison between the old switch and a brand new one:




This wear is impressive after just over 3000 km !

So I set up the new one (réf. T1190282). No use to buy a brass washer (T3550546) an aluminium one is supplied with the switch.

I tightened it just enough to avoid leaks but not more, reconnected the wire and refilled with 500 ml of oïl.

This thread has been a great help. Thank you.
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post #63 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-30-2017, 08:52 AM
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is that an updated switch with a different part # as its a bit different
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post #64 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-30-2017, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodhotter View Post
is that an updated switch with a different part # as its a bit different
No doubt about it being different, the gasket surrounding the pin even appears larger in the second picture, and that much wear to actually 'round off' the pin in some 1800 miles would seem impossible.

I'm planning on doing this job soon, maybe I'll have to order the part early to settle my curiosity.

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post #65 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-30-2017, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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is that an updated switch with a different part # as its a bit different
Yes it's an updated part, see post 37 on this same thread:

https://www.triumphrat.net/air-cooled...-boring-4.html
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post #66 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 08:55 AM
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Earnesto to the rescue, never boring but detailed! always appreciate your accurate input on any topic
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post #67 of 70 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 01:43 PM
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I'll be doing mine soon...I did the re-torque to eliminate the flickering light a while ago, but it started to re-occur last week....picked up the replacement yesterday....as pictured above with the rounded brass shaft. $26 CDN.

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post #68 of 70 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 11:43 PM
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Hi Forchetto! I know you are wise in this matter, I've read you all across the site. By any chance, do you know what's the part number of the cable that's connected to the switch? does the switch come with it? I've been looking for the part number and I can only find the number for the actual switch. help!

JF
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post #69 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Forchetto! I know you are wise in this matter, I've read you all across the site. By any chance, do you know what's the part number of the cable that's connected to the switch? does the switch come with it? I've been looking for the part number and I can only find the number for the actual switch. help!
The cable that connects to the neutral switch comes in two parts, for some reason, probably for ease of assembly on the line, there's a single cable run from the switch itself to the main wiring loom and it joins it through a single 0.250" faston connector located just behind the tank and on top of the airbox. I've pointed it out in the photo below.

This single piece of wire (presumably protected by some sort of sleeving along the way), with a male Faston connector at one end and a female on the other, receives the grand-sounding name of "subharness, neutral" and its part number is T2500339. Just google that number for a listing of various sources apart from your dealer.

The switch is a separate item and it's not supplied with the wire.

The joke is that Triumph prices it at £23.48 ($30.70),see item number 23 in this parts listing:

https://www.worldoftriumph.com//part...00065016-2-2/#

See connector at top right of this photo, this is the location where it joins up with the main harness:



Last edited by Forchetto; 05-01-2019 at 02:48 PM.
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post #70 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 07:09 AM
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Hang on a minute. Never thought about it before reading this thread, but I've always had to pull the clutch to start my bike, even in neutral. The neutral switch is working because the indicator lights. According to the schematic I shouldn't have to. Hard to diagnose because everything goes into the ECM.

What do you think?
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