I just changed my oil. I put a gallon in, but then I noticed I only got maybe 5/8 of a gallon out. In the sight window there is just a small sliver at the top with no oil. Do I need to drain some out, or should it be ok?
I always run 4 qts. Never had any issues of over oiled or excessive venting. The spec is so close to 4 qts I don't think the few or couple ounces extra is going to ever be an issue.
Same experience with lengthy drain and filter change. That's checking the sight glass with the bike on a lift and 100% vertical, and it's really sensitive to the slightest difference in angle. My USA owner's handbook also says 4.0 US Qts. with filter change..., or 3.8 liters.
Will admit I still add 3+ Qts., run the engine for a minute and let it settle for 5 min. per the handbook instructions for a final reading. Always takes the 4 Qts. though to the upper mark/line on the engine case. Never had an issue, touch wood!
After rereading your original post - If you only got 5/8 of a gallon out of it I think you should look into that as a priority. Either you left a considerable amount of dirty oil in the engine or you were quite low to start with?
The filter holds probably 1/2 a quart when removed with whats in it and the oil drainage after the removal. I always let any vehicle I change oil on drain until its hardly a drip left.
Maybe take a look at how clean / clear the oil is right now to give you an idea of if you left contaminated oil in the engine?
The oil actually does look dirty in the sight window... I didn't think about it at the time, but it is sitting on an uphill incline. I should have turned it around
If that's the case, and you really got less than three quarts out, I'd just redo the oil change. I suppose I wouldn't swap out the filter, but I'd replace all the oil.
(That's a lie, I'd change the filter. But I'd know I was wasting money when I did it. But I'd do it anyways, because that's how I am. Don't be like me.)
I had the same issue. Used the mechanism from an empty spray bottle to pull out enough to get closer to the sight line. Probably not necessary but it was easy and I felt better. Certainly easier than trying to drain it from the plug.
I usually put 4 qts. in, then I run it for a few minutes, shut it down for a few minutes, and check the sight glass. It should be at 1/2. The sight glass never lies. The bike needs to be level. How much goes in depends on how completely it drained. ...J.D.
If you go to the pharmacy you can buy a few 50ml syringes, the kind people use to maintain colostomies. They are cheap. They are great to have around the shop. You can put a length of gas line or something on the end and suck the oil out. Just don't drop anything down in there!
Or if you do drop something down in there be sure to start a thread on it.
The one from last year with a rod getting dropped into a motor would be tough to beat but you never know.
Simply loosen the drain bolt very slowly until oil starts trickling out the plug will still be engaged by the threads. let it trickle until you are satisfied with the removed amount. No need for turkey basters, syringes or such things.
What'd you do, drain it on the ground? Use the oil that you drained out to bring it back up to where it's supposed to be.
I did what you did(over filled the engine) loosened up the drain plug and let it trickle out. I drained to much and having just put it in and then drained it out I figured it'd be fine to reuse. Of coarse I drained it into a clean container.
Just be sure to not let the bike sit and cool down for too long, as the sight glass will read above the recommended amount due to the oil drain back.
Usually, the amount of time needed for me to remove my gloves, helmet, jacket, etc and park my bike, a few mins pass from shut down. I sit and level the bike, then place it back on the side stand. The sight glass will show a remnant residue line of where of oil was a few seconds ago.
I keep a small wood block sized to put under the kick stand to bring it close enough to level to drain the oil and check the sight glass. I don't leave it on the block unless I'm changing or checking oil. ...J.D.
Check it when it's had a few hours to drain down, cold is okay. It shouldn't be higher than halfway in the sight glass at that point. This guarantees that you don't have too much oil in it, which isn't good.
Add 3.7 quarts or 3.5 liters for an oil change and you'll be close to where it should be and fine to ride. It doesn't have to be exact. Check later and add a bit if it isn't quite up to the middle if that makes you feel better.
That's all there is to it, other than making sure you're checking the sight glass properly, bike plumb and all that. Don't overthink it.
There is a whole lot of this around the subject of changing oil ! As an old ex-mechanic, I gotta laugh at times. About as simple as making a pot of coffee. But a thread on this will go on for weeks.
...J.D.
I will relate this true story. I know it will probably "stir the pot" a bit on the subject of oil changes. Last year I changed the oil and filter on my '02 America. I had not ridden it in about 3 months or so. I had purchased the oil and filter, but I had been busy with other things including riding one of my other bikes. One morning I rolled it out in the middle of my shop, pulled the drain plug and removed the filter. Knowing the oil was cold, I went back in the house to have a cold drink while it drained. I came back later, installed a filter and the drain plug. As per my custom I poured in 4 QUARTS. I started the bike, let it run a few minutes, shut it down and let is sit. When I checked the sight glass...NOTHING ! I put a bit more in...still low...a bit more...STILL low. I wound up putting 5 QUARTS in that day. I have rode it all summer. It has stayed at 1/2 sight glass. My theory is, it depends on how well it drains out. A long period of setting like that, the oil cooler was probably dry as well as the cam valleys, the oil passages etc. Lesson I learned. ALWAYS check the sight glass. ...J.D.
Well - this may have been stated before, so apologies just in case ....
Why not rest it on the side stand, then hold bike upright, get the level right as per the manual, then rest it back on the side stand, and see where the level is. That's then your future reference point for the correct oil level ? You have no further need to get the bike vertical !
Worth mentioning that I very rarely check the level and haven't tried my stunning suggestion yet
So there seems to be a lot of different methods being employed for checking / setting oil level. Surely you always warm oil up before a change? And always check oil level hot?
I check oil is present and fire her up to warm the bike, then let it sit for 5 then check the sight glass on my paddock stand... I think the reason behind the hot check is to make sure it has fully circulated. I can’t see any reason to do anything different to triumphs procedure, or is there?
Easiest way is to pull the tank off and then the cam cover. You can use that flat surface for the gasket to put your level on. Attach a GoPro camera to your shin so it's aimed at the sight glass, and stand the bike up until the bubble on the level shows that engine block is level. Then you just review the GoPro footage to see where the oil level was. Easy Peasy, Bob's your uncle.
I used to just pull off the seat and put the level on the frame rails, but I'm not sure that is precise enough.
Tough part is that you need to check your level exactly 120 seconds after turning off the motor. You're going to want a decent chronometer to get that timing right. Doesn't give you a lot of time to get the tank and cam cover off, but with practice it can be done.
All bets are off if you change the tires. You have to compare the old and new tire heights front and back, and then shim one of the tires to bring the difference between them to the same as they were with the OEM tires. And remember that this is for new tires; as they wear, you have to measure the heights for each oil change, do your calculations, and shim accordingly. Only then can you start with the level to make sure that the bike is plumb. Reverse this procedure if you live in the southern hemisphere, as the bike will be upside down.
An oil change usually takes me a half hour, after I've spent three to four hours measuring old OEM tires that I've kept for this purpose and finding shims of the appropriate thickness in my garage. And then ONLY after the bike has been run for EXACTLY five minutes to get the oil to EXACTLY 75C so the correct amount will flow out when I remove the drain bolt.
If you don't get the oil to within 0.5mm of the manufacturer-specified level on new OEM tires on a level surface as confirmed by using a level as specified, your motor will self-destruct within a few minutes after starting.
This is only a short summary. PM me if you want details, but not on a wednesday. I think that I have a six-page pdf somewhere that spells it out.
You need to take your bike to the Salt Lake Flats, if you really want to be sure, to be sure.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
3.9M posts
167.7K members
Since 2002
A forum community dedicated to Triumph Motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, cafe racers, bobbers, riding, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!