More strange stuff. The engine dis NOT crank with the Microstart. I decided to remove the wires for the Microstart and all the accessory wires hooked up to the battery thinking maybe one of them was interfering with the bike. Turned the key and powered the bike on and this time the idiot lights came on but still not cranking. Tried it again and.. it started! Before anyone says that the MicroStart cable was causing the problem, I reinstalled it on another bike and it worked fine.
I still feel that you have dodgy crimp joints inside the harness. You will have to see how it goes now that the bike runs but I get the feeling that the problem will be back at some point. I hope that I'm wrong, by the way, because its one heck of a job to open the harness and repair the joints. The intermittent nature - now it works, now it doesn't - points toward the crimp joint problem.
I like the clean the battery terminals theory but it raises another question. Trying to connect anything other than just the main battery cables to the battery is a huge pain. The battery bolts they supply are just not long enough for more than MAYBE one accessory.
That's because, strictly speaking, you are not meant to hang all your accessories directly off the battery. A proper installation should have ONLY the thick battery cables plus the charging wire bolted to the battery.
The bolt just doesn't reach the nut. You can get it on with lots of cursing a shimming but there has to be a better solution. I've found it hard to find a bolt with the same threads as the nut in just the right length needed for the accessories I have
I can't see a problem.
The thread is the extremely popular M6x1, and anyone who is doing as you are attempting would just get a brass M6 bolt, slightly longer than needed and cut it down to length with a junior hacksaw. You may not even need to do that, since the bolt lengths go up in increments of 5mm. I think the standard bolts are 15mm long so you could use a 20mm. It doesn't need to be so exact since there is a few mm to spare under the nut when the bolt is tightened.
Is there some sort of terminal block you can buy that makes this easier. It's bad on the Triumph but much worse on my FJR where access to the battery is really bad.
Yes there is - its called an auxiliary fuse box. You can get them from 2 fuses to 12 fuses. They have a single wire running to the battery positive terminal and some types are fitted with LEDs on the fuses which will light up when the fuse has blown. These save you from having all those individual inline fuses hanging off the battery.
Finally, I was wondering whether its a bad practice to start the bike up before the idiot lights have gone through their full cycle. I'm an impatient New Yorker. Could this have caused the problem?
I doubt it. You should wait, but if you start the bike early the cycle will be completed anyway. You may be an impatient New Yorker but you can't rush the ECU. Until that is ready you have no start button.
And yes, you can't go anywhere on this bike without the Allen key required to remove the seat.The extender bolts are useless. If you tighten them by hand they either fall off while you're riding or they get stolen. Both have happened to me.
There are other options. A quick release seat catch is available in either pull-cable or key lock version. No more bolts. Search the forum for 'quick release seat latch' or send a PM to