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Airbox Removal

22K views 50 replies 23 participants last post by  rayx0106 
#1 ·
Anyone have any info on upcoming airbox removal kits? I've searched and haven't found anything.
 
#3 ·
Anyone have any info on upcoming airbox removal kits? I've searched and haven't found anything.
From what bike??
Thought this was under water cooled twins.. To be more specific, I was referring to the Thruxton R. Just seems like vendors have been pretty slow rolling out upgrades for such a hyped motorcycle. I want induction roar!
 
#5 · (Edited)
For the Thruxton R;

This is now on the Triumph website configurator


WASHABLE AIR FILTER KIT
PART NUMBER: A9610322

$150.00 42m Fitting
DESCRIPTION
A washable Air Filter Kit which can be fitted as a direct replacement of the standard equipment part.
This accessory is Not Homologated and could be illegal to fit in your country



Also here;
https://www.triumphworld.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=194874


http://www.triumphrat.net/water-cooled-twins-technical-talk/738418-performance-f-kit.html
 
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#7 ·
I can't find anything except that, nothing for my bike except a washable filter. That is the problem with being an early adopter, have to wait on the market to catch up. I don't need much, but I would like to squeeze about ~8-10 more horses out of it. Need an exhaust, tune, and some airbox mod for that I imagine.
 
#8 ·
Here is a list of Thruxton R race parts that it is rumored may be available in the fall;
Parts A9778024 - Quickshifter Kit
Parts A9610492 - Performance Camshaft Kit
Parts A9610322 - Performance A/F, Kit
Parts A9600624 - Competition Headers (Off Road use only) A pair of brushed stainless steel competition headers minus catalyst for use with A9600621
Parts A9600621 - Competition Slip-On Silencers. Manufactured by Vance & Hines featuring carbon fibre end caps. Supplied with race tune download and featuring laser etched branding. Provides significant weight saving & power increase over original parts when fitted. For off road use only.
 
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#10 ·
My dealership's mechanic told me the new water-cooled bikes are not designed to "run better" by removing the air box, as I've done numerous times on my air-cooled Bonnevilles and Truxtons. The mechanic went to Triumph's school to learn about the new bikes and said the presence of the airbag is integral to the motorcycle's overall tuning. I don't know but that's what I was told.
 
#12 ·
This is mostly Triumph saying if you mess with the airbox you'll need to mess with the tune, makes sense.

I agree, the airbox is an integral component of the overall tune, but it doesn't mean if you want to alter the power curve you shouldn't alter the airbox.

I truly believe the choking of the T120 at higher rpms is primarily the airbox.
 
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#18 ·
This is quite the claim:

Bolt-on High Flow air cleaner kit for Triumph T120 & Thruxton 1200: Increase HP by a minimum of 8HP at the rear wheel

I see they make one for the ST too now, but it flows into the air box unlike this one which skips it.



I got a BMC air filter in the mail today, going to put it in my bike when I get it back with the accessory tune installed, and see if I notice any difference.
 
#19 ·
There will always be claims and disclaimers I guess. I wonder if an airbox dosn't just do it's job anyway. Wouldn't you get a more consistent flow of air and temp at the throttle body from an airbox. I would of thought external filters would be under the influence of turbulence/vacuum and changing temp.

I've seen a two stroke with it's barrel turned with the carby at the front. I assume there is a reason why it's not done in general.
 
#21 ·
Strange how the Australian importer makes the claims of +8bhp at rear wheel and -10º lower engine temperature and yet the Italian maker Free Spirits doesn't.

I've never heard of an air filter lowering engine temperature, perhaps they mean lower intake air charge temperature, but even so as the air temperature sensor is fitted to the airbox, which stays in place and it's heated by engine heat, the ECU won't be able to take advantage of that factor.

I agree with the previous poster, a claim like that for a product costing AUD 817 (USD 600) needs some sort of proof, even if it's just a photoshopped dyno readout...:)

They both go on about the super light weight stainless elbow pipe, but then go on to say that the original airbox and filter can stay in there unmolested.
 
#23 · (Edited)
I wonder about removing the box and replacing with some short stacks? From Wiki;
Modern fuel injection systems with a plenum and single air inlet typically incorporate some sort of radiused entrance, designed to improve power, based on air flow increases. Power gains are usually at higher rpm.[citation needed]
In amateur and professional racing, aftermarket velocity stacks are often used, as rules allow, and gains in the order of 2% to 4% can be obtained when inlet radii and stack lengths are optimized for that engine.

Cool air seems important to me as well, and the aftermarket "U" pipes I've seen all seem to draw hot air right off the engine.

Edit; Delorto makes a nice looking 42mm stack, but they may be a bit long.
This may be a good place to start for headers ( http://www.sharpeproducts.com/store...pe-90-elbow-w-1-tangent-4-clr?productId=11510 ), as far as experimenting with tuning. I don't have access to a close Dyno anymore, just an A/F measuring device (a Testo), and a 1/4 mile track to get time slips. Kind of the old fashioned way of tuning, I know. :dunno
 
#24 ·
Sounds like a top way to try it all out.... wish i had a track near by. The closest is an eighth mile track. Sounds like your onto it though. Unless you can change the inlet manifold I.E. where the injectors and butterflies are situated, velocity stacks and cooler air is you best bet. For every day riding an airbox will decrease the sudden changes in temp and flow conditions as in cross winds, moving your legs and speed you travel causing vacuum from the inlet. Also inlets are as tuned as outlets. Intake velocity will change air/fuel mix at certain revs and how well it burns in the chamber, so a controlled environment like an air box will make the most of your mapping/tune. Delivering cool air or slowing air temp change to the air box i think is the key. If you can access air from the head steam forward i think your in with a chance for the most stable air temp supply. over $1k au to by a tank and cut it up to put the air supply through.... so I am not jumping onto this quickley but the cogs are turning.
 
#25 ·
Seems like stacks were fairly common on the older carb. aspirated engines, with the "bellmouth" designs considered a safer bet. with power farther down in the RPM range. It occurs to me, that with the engine management computerized fuel injection, they could work just as well or even better. I'm having a heck of a time finding any good literature about how the whole Triumph engine management system works. Is it a complete system that controls spark advance etc., or is it just fuel? That, and the bottom end of the 1200 engine? I would assume that even for making the factory H.P. claims that the crankshaft has a center bearing, and hopefully it's a forged steel crank. If that's indeed the case, then I''d think some significant H.P. gains could be made with no real worries. I don't have any idea as to how this big motor behaves in the upper RPM ranges, as I'm still breaking mine in. The dealer says to keep it under 4200 RPMs for the first 500 miles and I'm only half way there. It certainly pulls nice and hard down low though, and I wouldn't want to give that up, just for the occasional trip up to 7K. One thing that will certainly be on my list of modifications will be sprocket ratios. My bikes is geared a bit on the tall side for me. Maybe an 1/8 mile would be even better.
 
#26 ·
FWIW, this is what I use on my Ford diesel. https://www.sctflash.com/
I don't guess there's anything like this available foe the Triumph system (yet). Just really curious as to how many functions the management system controls. I remember back when I was into 4 wheels and had a 87 Buick GN that had a very advanced (for it's time) engine system that would let the spark advance depending on fuel grade. First sign of a spark knock from inferior fuel and it would retard and maybe even dump some boost. If the advance is just a set it and forget thing on these, then they probably have it set very conservatively especially with 10:5 compression. With water cooling, detonation problems are a hair less of a worry. If you know you are going to be running 100 octane or better pure gasoline, you could gain some real power in the ignition. We have an airport that sells 106 pure gas, and a little farm store that sells 87 pure gas, so I'm thinking of mixing the two. I heard some sort of rumor though about aviation gas not having all the same lubricants as regular pump gas??
 
#27 ·
If you have an ideal header and exhaust, unrestricting the intake can give more HP but you have to retune it. British Customs made an airbox removal kit for the Tbird. For the Rocket, you can bypass the air box and plenum by putting filters directly on the throttle bodies. I doubt you could get 8 peak rwhp from intake mods alone on a 1200 cc engine without significantly increasing compression and moving the power curve up, which is already high on the R.
 
#28 ·
Agree 100%, I read that they have a pretty aggressive tune on the bobber right out of the box. I found (and bought) the special cable and ECU Tuner program on ebay. Hope it works,and from what I could see on a youtube, there is ignition timing in the tune. Yippie!
 
#31 ·
thank god i bought my ST ,to slow down not speed up .Ive done the whole aftermarket modify and tune thing on similar powered bikes . my 650 ninja was an animal at speed at the sacrifice of around town ride ability , you cant have it both ways . the honda shadow with aftermarket exhaust and shorty pipes worked well enough with the Cobra auto tune efi module but still weak is gonna be weak no matter what you do to airbox filters and exhaust pipes efi jetting .
go ahead and spend thousands on cams fuel injection ,timing ,air filter kits .If your not happy with the performance of the bike out of the box ,then buy another bike with more power to start off with your only gonna bet alittle bit more out of it with all these addon performance kits.Now if you like to play with the engine and do a complete rebuild for the fun of it thats cool and fun but people here looking for a qwick easy bolt on boost . sorry your out of luck, been there done that . I find comfert in the ol saying " its more fun to ride a slow bike fast, then a fast bike slow" PS. sorry for the rant i couldent help myself.lol
 
#32 ·
For some it's more fun wrenching than riding. I spend waaay more time building and modding stereo amplifiers than listening to them. I think for me the attraction is seeking perfection, though we of course never attain it. At work it's all about coming in under bid, even if you half to cut a corner or two. It wears on you after enough years, yuck. But coming home and being able to take as much time as you want, to engine turn a piece of metal or do some woodworking just winds me down. All manufacturers are forced to leave "stuff" on the table. Air induction has to pass noise codes and such. Then there's the price point. Between all that, there's no way they can deliver a product that is all it can be. Yep, if I was a speed freak, I'd buy a Busa, and did look at them and the Gixxers, but the fit and finish didn't appeal to me, and no way I need anywhere close to that kinda speed. Experimenting is fun, I kinda like to do stuff that is reversible if need be. I guess it's not so much about going fast, as it is the rode to get there.:smile2:
 
#36 ·
For some it's more fun wrenching than riding. I spend waaay more time building and modding stereo amplifiers than listening to them. I think for me the attraction is seeking perfection, though we of course never attain it. At work it's all about coming in under bid, even if you half to cut a corner or two. It wears on you after enough years, yuck. But coming home and being able to take as much time as you want, to engine turn a piece of metal or do some woodworking just winds me down. All manufacturers are forced to leave "stuff" on the table. Air induction has to pass noise codes and such. Then there's the price point. Between all that, there's no way they can deliver a product that is all it can be. Yep, if I was a speed freak, I'd buy a Busa, and did look at them and the Gixxers, but the fit and finish didn't appeal to me, and no way I need anywhere close to that kinda speed. Experimenting is fun, I kinda like to do stuff that is reversible if need be. I guess it's not so much about going fast, as it is the rode to get there.
I'm hearing ya.
 
#42 ·
#47 ·
The box is needed to house all the relays and electronic gubbins that usually sits behind the covers plus the battery. People doing major modifications usually fit a pan below the seat, and rewire the whole harness to move all the crap into there, including using a Lithium Iron battery to reduce the size.
I'd imagine those filters would work fine, as they have a huge surface area around the perimeter. This is an appearance mod, not performance, but I don't think it would do any harm at all, and I think it looks pretty d@mn good.
I suspect there's a fair bit of reworking to do in order to get one of these fitted, but it could be a fun project. Check out where the ignition switch is on the post above!
 
#48 ·
Check out where the ignition switch is on the post above!
Since you mentioned this, I never understood the point of ignition relocation. You presumedly lose the steering lock functionality when doing this (no thanks) and that location seems like its a lot more likely to result in the rider forgetting the key when walking away from the bike.

Is this a purely aesthetic thing for those obsessed with minimal dashboard handlebar areas?
 
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