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Thruxton - Riser and chrom handlebar

44K views 92 replies 26 participants last post by  2ballde 
#1 · (Edited)
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#16 ·
Bingo!......A German buddy of mine has just sent me an e-mail with this link from Free Spirits and from what I can see its a very reasonable price for the top yoke......They do them in black and silver/aluminium for both the R and the S. You can use them to lower the forks (I cant quite figure that part out, please point it out if you can see what they mean :dunno I'm having a bad day) or to fit bars on top of the yolk

http://www.freespiritsparts.com/en/lowering-triple-trees-for-triumph-thruxton-r.html
 
#17 ·
The yoke looks like it sits higher than the stock yoke. This lets you pull tubes up, lowering the front end. The stock bars would also be further up, but with the front end being lower, I don't know of it would actually be any more comfortable. Of course, with tubular bars, then you can do whatever you like. Raising the tubes also shortens the wheelbase slightly and decreases rake, making steering a bit more responsive. Max lean angle would be slightly reduced as well.
 
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#19 ·
Just noticed they recommend shorter shocks to put the geometry back. So just a bit shorter wheelbase and less max lean angle.
Well I must be missing something here....what I'm seeing in this picture below are the stock clip-ons with the fork legs protruding through that yoke by about 5mm more than the stock set up. That can be done with the stock yoke.
They are talking about a 23mm difference.
The only way I can see that happening is if you bought the clip-on bars that are on that page which have a much slimmer clamp than the stock clip-ons and so would mean the fork legs can come up more, and if that is the case why wouldn't they show a picture of that......I'm really not getting what they are talking about!

All I want to do is fit the yoke and utilise the bar clamps and fit some handle bars to this bike. I dont want to buy the yoke and find that it has somehow lowered the front end of the bike...WHAT AM I MISSING??
 

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#20 ·
@Scotty UK

The way it looks to me is that the relationship between the bottom and top yokes is further apart than stock. The bottom yoke remains in the same place, but the top yoke is further up. This brings the entire fork tube up, lowering the front of the bike.
 
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#22 · (Edited)
Yes, thanks for that, I've just had an embarrassing conversation with a friend of mine in the pub who couldn't believe I didn't get it straight away......and I might add, he took grate pleasure in reminding me at least three times in the couple of hours we were talking about stuff...
Its not often he gets one over on me but he has sure made the most of it tonight :wink2:

And just to rub my nose in it my German buddy made a diagram to point out exactly what I was missing...(thanks Tom :bow)
 

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#31 ·
Anyone know how much spare length, if any, there is in the wiring to the handlebar switches? Raising the bars might be the easy bit if you have to then start extending all the wires to the switchgear. Also the ignition lock / barrel isn't usually easy to remove, if it's like my old 955, which had the barrel pinned into the alloy yolk with a steel pin so it was deliberately tricky to remove for security reasons.

Drilling the existing top yolk for fitting risers was my first idea, but I wasn't aware it was thin. But how thin is too thin I wonder??
 
#32 ·
ABM Handlebar replacement kit

Speigler is now carrying the ABM handlebar replacement kit for the Thruxton as shown in the first post of this thread.

https://spieglerusa.com/controls/handlebar-conversion/handlebar-conversion-kit-4358-19931.htm

They just ordered their first batch from Germany so they are not in stock yet (due mid September) so if you place an order, it will show as backordered until then.

It looks like a pretty easy install with the clutch cable the only item needing replacement. I have a set on order and will have to see what the instructions are like.
 
#35 ·
Thanks Scotty.The link to your post 19 is actually wrong. Goes to a totally different thread altogether. However I found it in the end. I came across your post within minutes of first joining, but has now taken HOURS to find it again. Got it now though, at last. :grin2:

What I want to achieve is roughly what you have, maybe a little higher, but one piece (each side) so no 'joint' in the middle.
 
#41 ·
ABM Thruxton Superbike Handle Bar Conversion

I purchased this kit from Speigler USA ( https://spieglerusa.com/controls/handlebar-conversion/handlebar-conversion-kit-7455.htm ) and installed it last weekend. It took about 3-1/2 hrs. There are no modifications required to the wiring and only the clutch cable needs to be replaced. The kit is well thought out, straight forward to install, includes all necessary parts and allows remounting of the stock mirrors. The riding position is dramatically improved and the bars look good on the bike.
 

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#42 ·
@;
I purchased this kit from Speigler USA ( https://spieglerusa.com/controls/handlebar-conversion/handlebar-conversion-kit-7455.htm ) and installed it last weekend. It took about 3-1/2 hrs. There are no modifications required to the wiring and only the clutch cable needs to be replaced. The kit is well thought out, straight forward to install, includes all necessary parts and allows remounting of the stock mirrors. The riding position is dramatically improved and the bars look good on the bike.
I like it a lot except for that clutch cable. I noticed you routed it like the marketing pics i.e. above the gauges. Is there some reason it can't go down on the left side of the gauges like the stock routing?
 
#43 ·
Good question. I agree that it spoils the clean look of the front of the bike (also blocks the view of the lower part of the Speedo). The cable supplied with the kit is several inches longer than the stock cable. Unfortunately, I had to cut the stock cable to remove it from the clutch actuator so was not able to try and reuse it. I suspect it is too short. Next time I go to my dealer I am going to measure the clutch cable on the T120 and see if that might work as the clutch control on both bikes is the same.
 
#46 ·
I completely agree with you there. I simply don't like bar-end mirrors. They may work well for seeing behind you, but I never liked the look and they're certainly not retro. In the days of bikes like the Thruxton is aping, we didn't have any mirrors and when they began to appear they were in the now common location on top of the bars.

I will be fitting Street Twin h/bar lever clamps (with mirror mounts) and installing mirrors in those, removing the bar-end ones. A better look IMO.
 
#47 ·
Britone - your bike looks great. I'll be following your lead on the Spiegler yoke. Will also try fitting a T120 clutch cable with the hope that it routes like the original. Like BiKenG's idea of using the Street Twin clamps to mount round mirrors. Don't like looking down to see behind. Suggestions on a set of plain round mirrors?
 
#48 ·
I purchased one of the first black and checkered 2004 Thruxtons, and I end up putting those Heli bars on that sucker. It was grueling to ride with those original stock clip ons. Too far of a reach over the fuel tank. I figured out the issue was really that tank is longer then most sport bike tanks and that compounded the reach issue to the clip ons.

It was a big issue back in 04, lot of people who bought those bikes found out they could not ride for many miles with the original set up. That's why they changed it all down the road a few years later. Heli bar the first solution, didn't help by much, after 100 miles I had to get off that bike. Love the look but the combination of the rear sets and clip ons just ain't my bag these days.
 
#49 ·
Correction on the need to purchase additional clamps for the (standard) Thruxton 1200. It looks like the controls are the same as the T-120 and can mount Triumph mirrors. Believe a higher bar will solve most of my comfort issues. A good seat will eventually follow - hope Sargent or Burton (British Bike Bits) will make something soon.
 
#50 ·
Using T120 Clutch Cable

At Scotty UK's suggestion, I purchased a clutch cable for the new T120 to replace the one included in the ABM kit available from Speigler. It fit perfectly and cleaned up the view of the gauges. Attached are a couple of pics.

While I was at the dealer, I took a look at the rear sprocket of every Thruxton and Thruxton R and they were all Sunstar 525-42T.
 

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#51 ·
At Scotty UK's suggestion, I purchased a clutch cable for the new T120 to replace the one included in the ABM kit available from Speigler. It fit perfectly and cleaned up the view of the gauges. Attached are a couple of pics.

While I was at the dealer, I took a look at the rear sprocket of every Thruxton and Thruxton R and they were all Sunstar 525-42T.
Much better!
 
#53 ·
I ordered this kit from A&J Cycles in New York (very happy with Brian's service) and installed it over a couple of days. Took me longer than I thought it would. I used the T120 clutch cable (P/N T2048869), which worked perfectly. I was really hesitant about drilling out the ignition switch, but there is plenty of thread left to remove the old screws. Entirely reversible.

I adjusted the angle of the brake line (where it attaches to the reservoir), raising it higher, so I could run the line behind the ignition switch, above the eye on the frame. Any other location wants to bind on the bottom of the switch housing.

I wish ABM supplied the handlebar already assembled; this was the most difficult part.
 
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