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New bonnie t120 owner with concerns

11K views 37 replies 20 participants last post by  sonicboom 
#1 ·
Good day. I'm new to the triumph community. Figured I should introduce myself first. Name is Thien. Living outside of Boston. Been riding since 09. Previously owned a gsxr600 and gsxr750. Last year, I decided to take a break and sold my last bike. Recently, traveled to vietnam and Thailand. Had a blast on scooters and decided I need to get back on two wheels. Long story short, I purchased the new T120 a couple weeks ago.

The ride is very much different than a sport bike but I've been enjoying it thus far. However, I do have a couple concerns about the new bike.

1) I noticed a clear liquid dripping out of the pipe connecting to the cat while the bike idling. Right at the connection. First time observing that tonight. It doesn't have any smell or oily texture. I'm assuming it's just water. Maybe I'm over thinking it.

2) Whenever I turn the bike on, I'd need to try for a second time to get it running. The first time sounds like the bike is choked on something. Kinda reminds me of starting your bike after a lengthy period of storage. For those with the new T120, are you experiencing this also?

Any insight will be appreciated.



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#4 · (Edited)
Starting issues seem to come up a bit on the water cooled models, here're some threads from the last few weeks:

http://www.triumphrat.net/water-coo...s-off-unless-i-blip-at-start.html#post7829810

http://www.triumphrat.net/water-cooled-twins-talk/706418-street-twin-starting-issue.html

http://www.triumphrat.net/water-cooled-twins-talk/694434-t120-sluggish-engine-start.html

http://www.triumphrat.net/water-coo...-street-twin-hard-starting-2.html#post7950922

The liquid dripping from the exhaust will be just water from condensation inside a cold system. All vehicles do that, look at a car's tail pipe starting on a cold morning. There maybe a small drain hole to ensure that liquid drains out, as in some Yamahas, specially important on bikes with upswept systems. The water may contain some acids and other combustion products, so it's best that it drains out rather than left to start corrosion inside the silencer.
 
#5 ·
How many miles on the bike? Had the first service yet? I wouldn't worry about No.1, but I would mention the engine not starting on the first try to the dealer when you bring the bike in for the first service. How many cranks on the first try with no firing of the engine? For a new FI bike, not starting right up is not really normal for any bike. Maybe normal for my '98 Daytona, but not for your bike in my opinion.
 
#8 ·
A lot of us are having the issue with it taking two tries to start from cold. I took mine in to the dealer at about 200 miles and just got the break in service at 550 miles today. My dealer is mystified. He tried a bunch of different ECU mappings today, but the problem persists. He sent a message back to Triumph HQ about it.

I think we all just need to be vocal about it until they come up with a fix. Until then, I just accept that I have to blip the starter once briefly and then start it for real, and it starts up no problem.
 
#9 ·
I take it you let it completely cycle prior to starting. This means giving the fuel pump enough time to pressurize they system. I find if I'm too quick it needs a second go. Wait an extra couple seconds and it fires straight up, especially from cold. ps: good color bike yer got too.
 
#10 ·
That isn't the issue that many of us seem to be having. I could wait 10 minutes after turning the key, or 1 minute, it doesn't help. It takes two times with the starter to start from cold. Every time. And I always use the key or the kickstand to shut it off. Never the kill switch.
 
#11 ·
I'm seeing neither of these concerns.

The humidity here is generally under 5% for most of the year, so I'm not expecting condensation on starting.

So far, my T120 has willingly started on the first touch of the button.
 
#12 ·
I've experienced both - quick starting and not so quick starting.

My T120 would fire up immediately (after the gauge dance and the fuel system pressurized) - traded the T120 after I got a test ride on a Thruxton while waiting for my T120 500 mile service at the dealers. That's probably another story ...

Anyway, the Thruxton (base model - Competition Green) - does not start as quickly as my T120 did. Requires quite a bit more cranking, or, two attempts, as others have said. Other than that, no other issues (and I wouldn't really consider that an 'issue').

Love the Thruxton by the way. Don't test ride one unless you're ready to buy ... as much as I liked the T120 - it seemed too bland after riding the Thrux, and that by no means is meant to diminish the T120 which is a great bike and leap years ahead of my old T100 with all it's performance mods....
 
#13 ·
Yes, I've put on 1200 miles on my T120 and am thrilled with my purchase. I've had my 500 service. It always takes two try's to start cold, sometimes I get a squeal when braking, and the chrome pipes have blue brown stains at the upper turns. I'm taking these as normal things and just enjoying my new ride.
 
#23 ·
When cold, my T120 always starts on the second try, never the first. My 'old school' mind tells me that the engine needs a bit of prime before it will start, or that the computer adds a little auto choke on the second try. At least, that's how it seems. When warm, it always starts on the first try. I'm used to it, and don't consider it to be a problem.
 
#28 ·
When cold, my T120 always starts on the second try, never the first.
I'm on my 2nd T120 (don't ask). The first was a 2016 and had this same exact start issue. I could wait 30 seconds after turning key, give some throttle, hold the start button down for 10 seconds, hop on one foot ect. but it would never cold start on the first try. I just got in the habit of a quick start blip, let go of start, and then start for real.

Now however I have a 2017 T120 and it starts first try every single time. Cold or hot. 300 miles on it and it has always started first try.

I'm not saying it's just a 16/17 thing but it certainly should start first try.
 
#26 ·
I have the cold start issue and figured out a way to get it to fire on the first go.

I hold the throttle at about 1/4 turn before I hit the starter and as soon as the engine catches I let go of the throttle. Fires up first time, every time.

I shouldn't have to do that, but I'm hoping that the firmware upgrade along with the cruise control (if I ever receive it) will solve the cold start issue for real. For now, at least I don't have to suffer the embarrassment of a brand new bike that doesn't start up right away.
 
#27 ·
I have the cold start issue and figured out a way to get it to fire on the first go.

I hold the throttle at about 1/4 turn before I hit the starter and as soon as the engine catches I let go of the throttle. Fires up first time, every time.
That's what I found also, it needs more air when cranking. Give the throttle just a slight twist while cranking and it will fire right up.

People are so spoiled with FI.....

Good thing you don't have to tickle those fake carbs and jump on the kick starter for the 5th time and wonder if there's too much gas or not enough.
 
#29 ·
Interesting about the 16/17 thing. I will say that my 16 has been starting on the first try sometimes now. In other words, it seems to be changing. I'm wondering if it might be a 'break in' thing. When it does start on the first try, it sort of startles me! :surprise:
 
#30 ·
The starting quirk is not just a Triumph thing, I have a Suzuki V-Strom that is as reliable as the day is long, but it had this start up issue that was driving me crazy. It was hard to start and sometimes would blubber and die. Someone else told me to hold the throttle partly open and now it fires up with authority every time. It's true you think fuel injection should be flawless like starting your car, but it's not always so.


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#34 ·
The starting issue sounds like too lean a condition during initial start sequence to me.

I've had an issue like that with a surging idle at cold start and that was also contributed to a too lean condition which end up corrected with a new map, this was another brand of motorcycle. Fixed with a re-flash.
 
#37 ·
I just had the first service done on my T120. I also have the starting issue sometimes. The technician who did the service on my bike said that all of the Triumphs are tuned very lean. They do this to meet the strict Euro emission standards and also increase the mileage of the bike. He told me that it definitely contributes to hard starting in certain conditions... and also the engine running hot.

He told me that he couldn't officially recommend remapping the bike... but he could unofficially say that remapping the bike to run richer would decrease gas mileage some, but also decrease heat and the bike would generally run better... along with solving the starting issue.

I'm not overly bothered by the occasional hard start, so I don't know if I care enough to remap. But besides that, I'm too concerned about remapping voiding the warranty -- especially on a first year production motorcycle. I really don't want to go to the trouble to remap the bike back to original if I need to get it looked at.
 
#35 ·
could very well be a tuning issue with everything being new, todays cars are far more sophisticated as many high end bikes may be. like the first fuel injected air cooled bonnies, triumph only spends as little as possible to meet the EURO 4 requirements. even harley is making changes because they want to sell in various countries but unlike triumph some manufacturers equip bikes according to their destination. lack of ABS on many USA bikes are a perfect example with optional ABS being quite spendy!!!
 
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