Idiot's Guide to Basic Clutch Adjustment - Page 2 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-22-2009, 08:58 PM
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jimmy bush, GrandPaulZ,

Thanks both for the suggestions.

A local told me to try rocking it backwards in first gear with the clutch in. Between that and the forward efforts, it freed right up.

Went for a short run this afternoon, feels just fine.

Great forum - was going to suggest putting this thread up in tips and tricks, but I see you've already done that.

Thanks again.
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-26-2009, 09:36 PM
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i've got a problem...

first post:

so i removed the plug in the primary for the clutch adjustment screw and lock nut, and there doesn't seem to be any lock nut holding the screw in place, the screw hangs loose, resting on the bottom of the opening as shown:



it's obviously been monkeyed with in the past, as the screw is a bit mangled (but usable), and where i assume the lock nut should be looks to be pried against at one time. i.e. the hole where the screw is loosely sitting is a bit warped (at the top-right in this pic).

i've had the bike for a couple of weeks now (72 T120RV OIF), my first one. the clutch has been operable, but i noticed a bit of a slip during the last ride around the neighborhood. the bike would creep in first gear with the clutch pulled all the way in, i guess this was the problem.

is there any way to fix this without digging too deep into the primary right away? any suggestions?
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-27-2009, 01:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandPaulZ View Post
Otherwise, drain primary case, remove primary cover, remove 3 adjuster screws, remove lump of clutch plates and separate them.

Wash them off thoroughly with solvent or gasoline and sun-dry on both sides.

Scuff up the plain steel plates by swirling on flat concrete until nice and uniformly scuffed.

Re-assemble and adjust.
What? Are you serious?! This is too cool! If this method will work for me I'll save a bag of cash! I was just about to order all 13 pieces... How can I tell if mine are too far gone for this method (yes, they did come out in a lump but i can separate them with a bit of force)? Can I tell if they will work prior to reassembling the bike?
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-27-2009, 09:54 AM
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Gator, remove the left footpeg and primary cover, and check the three pressure spring adjusters to make sure they are even. You NEED a new locknut for the center adjuster. Go back a few posts and you'll see the easy "first step" solution to cleaning and adjusting the clutch.

looseparts- if you have visible grooves between the friction material "pads" of the friction plates, they are probably still useable unless they are brittle, hard and/or flaking off.

Check all the teeth on both types of plates for squareness, and the grooves in the clutch basket for smoothness. Knackered teeth and badly rutted basket grooves will result in horrible clutch activation/deactivation activity.

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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-27-2009, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy bush View Post
Use a higher gear. I used fourth on mine. It had been sitting for 15 years. Once I got it running, I put it on the center stand and started it in fourth gear, reved it up a bit with the clutch pulled in and applied the rear break. Freed right up.
Wish I had read this great idea last week before I tore open the primary cover.
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-27-2009, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwtgator View Post
first post:

so i removed the plug in the primary for the clutch adjustment screw and lock nut, and there doesn't seem to be any lock nut holding the screw in place, the screw hangs loose, resting on the bottom of the opening as shown:

it's obviously been monkeyed with in the past, as the screw is a bit mangled (but usable), and where i assume the lock nut should be looks to be pried against at one time. i.e. the hole where the screw is loosely sitting is a bit warped (at the top-right in this pic).

i've had the bike for a couple of weeks now (72 T120RV OIF), my first one. the clutch has been operable, but i noticed a bit of a slip during the last ride around the neighborhood. the bike would creep in first gear with the clutch pulled all the way in, i guess this was the problem.

is there any way to fix this without digging too deep into the primary right away? any suggestions?
ok, the primary cover is off. i've ordered a new clutch cover and adjuster, because the one i've got i've realized is a bit mangled. are there any other high wear parts i should replace while i'm in here so i can do it right the first time (i.e. drive rubber, rebound rubber, etc)?

i'll need a new primary gasket when putting this back together, what sort of sealer (if any) am i to use when putting the case back on? the previous owner replaced the clutch discs, i'll check the ones that are in there, and clean and scuff if necessary, but it sounded like this was done recently.

thanks for the help.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-28-2009, 10:03 AM
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I use a light smear of permatex RTV gray.

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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 12:45 PM
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I use some Gas-Ga-Cinch on the paper primary gasket...seems to work fine.Daub it on,let dry (5-10 min) and assemble.

Get it on,get it up,keep the beat
and RIDE WITH ZEKE
.................................................. .....
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandPaulZ View Post
Gator, remove the left footpeg and primary cover, and check the three pressure spring adjusters to make sure they are even. You NEED a new locknut for the center adjuster. Go back a few posts and you'll see the easy "first step" solution to cleaning and adjusting the clutch.

looseparts- if you have visible grooves between the friction material "pads" of the friction plates, they are probably still useable unless they are brittle, hard and/or flaking off.

Check all the teeth on both types of plates for squareness, and the grooves in the clutch basket for smoothness. Knackered teeth and badly rutted basket grooves will result in horrible clutch activation/deactivation activity.
I betcha he finds that lock nut in the bottom of the case ,eventually.

Get it on,get it up,keep the beat
and RIDE WITH ZEKE
.................................................. .....
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TonUp Club San Diego
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-01-2009, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meatwagon View Post
I betcha he finds that lock nut in the bottom of the case ,eventually.
Took the primary cover off, and there was no locknut in the bottom of the case...not one that i noticed right away anyway. I've got some parts coming in the mail early this week, maybe i'll find the nut behind the clutch pressure plate once that's off.

Last edited by gwtgator; 06-01-2009 at 09:24 PM.
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